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heffergm

Evo Gearbox

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... this thing is killing me. I've finally got the clutch working reasonably well, but when the gearbox gets hot, like riding a loop in an event, the clutch drag gets so horrible that I can't roll the bike back with the clutch in and the bike in gear. Shifting up through the box is a total disaster.

If an event was me carrying my bike from one section to the next, life would be grand, but since I have to actually shift the damn thing out of 1st now and then and ride the loop, I'm getting pretty annoyed.

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we were talkin about this only yesterday in the queue for a section.. follow the advise on clutch mods on this forum and use ipone oil was the most common reccomendation.. the plates can swell with the wrong oil and thats what causes the drag if you done everything else..

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I don't really have access to that gear oil here. But I just follow the manual as far as gearbox oil goes, which is for 10w40. I'm running Motul Transoil 10w40 at the moment, and it behaves exactly like everything else I've tried.

I guess I'll pull the plates out again. I looked at them once before, and they didn't look that bad in terms of glue and finish, but perhaps my eyes deceive me.

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Mine was just awful to shift when hot too until I did the glue scrape

I tried a few oils but nothing made it better, I did notice some made it worse

I can't imagine any lubricant that makes the plates swell but oils have a characteristic called ramp effect which causes high load areas to kind of load up with the particles and multi weight oils have a chemical reaction to heat that cause them to act like higher viscosity oils, it doesn't actually get thicker or heavier but it pretends that it does with I think long strand polymers, that can make for more or less drag

Anyway every oil does something different and there is a characteristic in every oil that is suited to a certain purpose, no bad oils, just bad for certain applications, perfect for others

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You guys are talking 2T right! If so disregard the following. But in case you aren't...

I was able to access the Panolin Oil as recommended by Beta for the 2014 4T. Its a 10w-50 and full synth. Clutch is great, no drag when at operating temp.

This oil's supply will dry up soon so I'm shifting to the full synth Motul 5100 10w-50. Its about the same money.

First time I ever open the clutch up I'll check to see if it needs the Beta Clutch Mod.

Mags

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http://beta-uk.com/images/pdf/2013/EVO2T_125-300_2013.pdf

Have a look at page 10 (clutch assembly) of the above link, and familiarise yourself with how it works.

I have come across poorly operating clutches on all sorts of bikes, both cable and hydraulically operated and unfortunately the list of minor difficult to identify faults is large.

Take your primary case off with the engine cold and measure the clutch lift for a full pull of the lever using a dial test indicator. Note if the clutch pressure plate lifts equally all the way round or if it tilts.

Repeat the above with the engine fully hot and compare with cold results. Compare with a known good clutch

Faults I have come across include:

Burrs on the clutch plate tangs

Warped clutch plates

Machine marks, wear grooves or burrs on the clutch basket slots

Push rod bent, end chipped or roughness on surface

Damaged ball

Uneven spring length or bent spring

Hydraulic cylinder not operating properly or dirt in the cylinder

Dirty of contaminated fluid, air in fluid, wrong fluid.

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Just to let you know, the Beta never did roll back well in gear. I started out riding an `89 and always used ATF. Never had a problem shifting on the loop, no matter the year. Always riding at high altitude. I`m sure it always ran plenty hot. Have you done any mods to the engine?

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