That must be it, I am just incapable......

Sometimes I wonder why I bother.

didnt mean it like that anyway

James

The ONLY reason to pull the valve core is if the beeder jams, plus the fact that you have probably done this already to let the tyre down.

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Don't you always put a new valve stem in?

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No never,why?

I could do as I have 100 of the things in a drawer.....

Nobody's going to describe the ever-faithful starter-fluid-and-match technique?

Cheers,

Richard

The person weve taken it too owns a bike shop and has a machine to do them but he said how could the wheel be tubeless when there are spokes, i said that they were but he was convinced it had a tube in even though it says tubeless on the tyre.

Are they all mainly tubeless? And if so they obviously can have spokes Right ?

http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/rim_band_rep...ment_manual.pdf

If it is a normal bike shop, they will not be familiar with the way these work. It is a fairly unusual system that is only used in Trials bikes to the best of my knowledge.

The reason I made the comment above about tightening the spokes, is that the spokes are not what seals the air into the tire. It is this rubber strip that seals the spokes off.

And here, I will let you in on a little secret that I had to pay very dearly to learn, and caused me no end of greif. When you get to the part about putting the little spacer sleeve on the valve stem, throw the dang thing away.... Just be careful when you tighten up the valve stem not to overtighten it.

Anyway, changing a Trials rear tire is one of the easiest ones to do. Have fun and learn a little bit about it as you go. Spend the money and buy some really nice tire irons, I still use the ones that I bought when I was about 16.

Nobody's going to describe the ever-faithful starter-fluid-and-match technique?

Cheers,

Richard

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This is the only technique that I think was discovered by someone who was so p****d off with not being able to get the tyre seated using the non beader way they literally wanted to set the thing on fire.

Edited September 20, 200520 yr by Nigel Dabster

A couple of others use the rim tapes in the past so my wheel builder said, what is worrying is that the bike shop couldn't work out it was tubeless because of the tape, the phrase "not technically competant" springs to mind.

Cheers Alan dont think the guy sees many trials bikes but he knows a fair bit like, think my rim tape's ok so... if this guy wrecks it i think he might lob a new back tyre on because its a half used ( but better than my old one) that hes putting on. Dont think he will though he says he's done plenty but i ll keep that in mind what you say

Nobody's going to describe the ever-faithful starter-fluid-and-match technique?

Cheers,

Richard

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This is the only technique that I think was discovered by someone who was so p****d off with not being able to get the tyre seated using the non beader way they literally wanted to set the thing on fire.

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Actually think it came, and the first time I ever saw it, (back in the early 80's and I was sure it had been around a long time before then) was with the truck tires. I sure was glad when they came up with Tiger tanks, or whatever you guys call them over there.

think my rim tape's ok so... if this guy wrecks it i think he might lob a new back tyre on because its a half used ( but better

The rim band on a tubeless is also different than on a tube type. If he damages it, make sure he doesn't put in a normal tube type rim band. Here, the normal band is like inner tube material, about1/2 mm thick and $5 tops. The tubeless one is 2 to 4 mm thick, and cost me $30+ gouge for one. It also has to fit into the rim groove more precisely.

Yeah should do really but think hes done plenty in the past he has got his own shop like If not then he can buy me a whole new wheel , lol