Hi, I've had the crankcasing of my 280 engine beadblasted so as to be able to see if there is any bad corosion which needs to be taken care of before rebuilding.

 

I'd like to know what paint would be the best option to use to reseal the surface, bearing in mind that it needs to be nonporous, hard (scratch resistant) and of course be easy to apply and look good ;o]

 

Any ideas.....

Don't use PJ1.... I used it on my Cota 200 3 years ago and it was great so I used it this year on my 242 but I think the formula has changed as it is not petrol resistant any more! A small splash of petrol just dissolved it, I thought this WA because it had not cured as the engine had not run much but after two days of running it looked a mess so I had to repaint. I was able to wash off the paint with petrol as if it was a kids water colour! I have now used VHT case paint it's better to apply and is petrol proof but not rock proof!

Hi

 

I've used 2k paints (2 Pack) before on beta crankcase and the road bikes  it copes with the heat, I have  a tdm 850 yamaha and I've done the whole engine on that. 

I wouldn't use it on a trials cylinder myself. 

 

depends on if you have the kit to spray 2k 

 

Rich

Thanks for the replies so far.

 

One thing which I forgot to state is that the cases are magnesium. I think they were originally coated in Dow-9 or something like. Orrible stuff by all accounts.

 

Glyptal Red Enamel Paint 946ml (US Quart)

Product Code : P260  is what you whant i think from frost .co.uk 

Dow 9 is a galvanic process I have now found out. I preps magnesium fot a normal paint/powder coat.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/57381-crankcases/

Has PJ1 changed formula does anybody know for definate? Its the only stuff I had ever found that stayed on and still looked good on barrels and heads

 

Normal cellulose seems to work fine on crankcases/ clutch covers but its not realy rock resistant..

I have made good experience wir them for engine cases comes for air guns or in rattle can. The paint had 2 components once mixed just a limited time for apply. Also the rattle can Version van only used for a short time once mixed. I used it to the magnesium covers to my KTM and it stays there now for already 4 years. The paint is too a little bit flexible and very resistant against scratches gas and oil.
http://www.motorradlack.de/produktliste/zubehor/motorlacke/

Another paint which is considered to be good is POR15.

Edited November 26, 201510 yr by pschrauber

Gents, thank you all for sharing your experiences and knowledge.

 

I still don't really know what would suite my application best.

 

I've requested some infos from some of the product manufacturers mentioned.

 

I'll make my decision known when the time comes.

 

Phil

I contacted RH Lacke and they said none of their products can/should be used on magnesium.

Their suggestion was, wait for it, have the magnesium parts cast in iron and then paint them with anything. Great......I don't think.

Most of the Companies who say they do such galvanic processing don't when you inform them that you are a private customer and you don't want hundreds  of pieces handled.

 

PJ1 has said that they will check their archives, we shal see.

 

Ciao,

 

Phil

I found a company nearby which will chromate the crankcases for €80-120, once done, I can paint them or even powder coat them as desired. Not cheap but C'est la vie !

Mmmh, may be RH Lacke had changed their mind ...?

 

I had Problems with the side cases of my KTM which had very bad corosion were the water pump is mounted, I could get a NOS sidecase. The cover had just  some corrosion at the flnge to the water cooling rubber tubes.

 

I paintd both of them with good results wit RH Lacke engine paint?

 

 

Engine rebuild and fitted with new sidecase and the old water pump cover:

 

 

The painted areas of the small waterpump cover is still visible, did so too to the other flange to the sidecase:

 

Well if you are happy with the results now and still are in the future what more needs to be said.

Wierd that RH said no to my application. My cases are 100% magnesium are yours ?

 

Anyway, I'm happy to have found a solution not too far away.

They are also made out of magnesium and from 1989 when they had not so much experience with water cooling and magnesium cases in the long run, so the cases started to dissolve especially in the water pump area from inside the pump out and were the tubes are attached. The later models in the 90's got the side cases again made out of aluminum.

 

You might look up used cases too they are not so expensive, you can get good used spares for around 70 €.

 

I press my thumps!!!

Another thing I did btw. to my SWM was to seal the caveties in the main engine cases were the engine mounts are, just to prevent corrosion there. I used 2K epoxy filler, the areas can only be checked when you take the complete engine apart.

Therefore I don't know how good it works ... but at least I have done something which gives me a good feeling.