Jump to content

twinshock giles

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ
Contact Information
Recent Profile Visitors
4,868 profile views
  1. Just watch out if you are ordering an ebay bargain from the States that some of their bikes used a fine spline that I have never seen over here in the UK. Don't ask me how I know this
  2. Looking for a bit of info as to what it is really, I thought it was an Amigo 80 Now I've got the bike looking at images online I'm not sure exactly what it is. I have front disc and rear drum, 21 & 18" wheels, its fitted with a Franco Morini engine but the bore size is marked as 39mm which I think makes it a 50. Unsurprisingly it needs a new rear mudguard, I've tried the one from my Skywalker and its a spot on fit, which seems to rule it out being a Alevin as i found a reference saying they were close but not right. I've messaged Harglo to see if they have any engine spares remaining, if not does anybody know anybody else who may have spares or what else used this engine, I've found a T4 cast into it which seems to be the Morini engine model code. Anyway the main thing is No.1 Son and Daughter are most impressed and its nice and light so should be easy enough for them to get the hang of riding once its done,
  3. Look carefully at the frame top tube from the head stock back, it should be straight, I had one bike for breaking that had had the bashplate spaced down previously that had a dog leg in the top tube.... That said its far more likely to be a bent bash plate and a weak or sticking detent spring - the wear can be difficult to spot though, I resorted to fault finding by substitution. The Ossa box (and the whole engine really) is tough in my experiance, I very much doubt you would have done any damage to it running it low on oil for one trial unless that trial included a lot of road work.
  4. The frame number is the format that would be allocated by the DVLA when the original number is lost or not present, so probably not going to be a lot of help. It will be road registered though probably on a Q
  5. I think there must be more going on than is immediately obvious here, if you haven't already got it booked in somewhere and it still doesn't want to rev out is it possible to try it without the final silencer to see if it might be clogged internally. Other than that could it be a wiring issue - filth in connections causing issues?
  6. Well I would, but then again as I'm buying a Mecatecno I'm probably not the best person to answer that....
  7. IF (and its a big IF) the plating on the barrel is ok - I couldn't make up my mind from the photos and you are on a tight budget, I would be tempted to smooth out the chips and try to get hold of a used piston and stick it in with new rings, they shouldn't catch the rings where they are. It would probably be ok for a good while as long as you don't let it scream out or try to do the SSDT Check the edges of the other ports for any sharp edges too. Also check the bottom end for any broken bits of piston, most of the time stuff just goes out the exhaust port but there is always a chance...
  8. What tolerance did you go for in the end?
  9. The Maxi was last out of tax July 1984, so probably is earlier.
  10. Embarasingly there was movement in the flywheel end of the crank when I took the casing off.... Yes condensors just fail with no warning
  11. Well i'm up for taking Nigels advice anybody wants to sell an Ossa or 2 cheap either down South or up Derbyshire way I'd be up for buying
  12. Does the Alpina run a motoplat electronic ignition like the Pursang, the only time my Pursang let me down (surprisingly in everybody elses opinion) was after quite a lot of trail riding the main bearing on the flywheel side had developed enough play in it to mess up triggering the spark, It didn't get noisy or seem to loose compression but would only spark randomly. Otherwise if it has a conventional ignition system and it runs ok when cold my vote is for a faulty condensor
  13. Has PJ1 changed formula does anybody know for definate? Its the only stuff I had ever found that stayed on and still looked good on barrels and heads Normal cellulose seems to work fine on crankcases/ clutch covers but its not realy rock resistant..
  14. You don't need an Ossa specialist - anybody who is used to working on 2 strokes should be able to split it and rebuild it for you, probably your best bet would be to find someone who rebuilds MX engines. The Ossa engine is about as simple as it gets to work on and split, the only tricky thing to remember is that there are shims everywhere and you really don't want to mix them up when you take it apart. I think the only special tools you are likely to need is a clutch holder so you an undo the centre nut (or just use an impact wrench) and flywheel (magneto) puller. An impact driver is usefull to loosen the screws that hold the casings together. Other than that there may be a special tool for holding/ dismantling the cush drive on the end of the crank but i've never had one. While it is apart you may as well fit new bearings and seals they are only a few extra £/$
  15. Could it be a broken kickstart shaft? I've never seen or heard of it happening on an Ossa but I can't think what else it could be. The only thing I have had close to it was a 350 which only started to engage after about 2/3rds of a rotation of the kickstart shaft. I think that was down to mis matched parts and needing reshiming though, it didn't just suddenly happen.
  • Create New...