Beta TR34.

There are two adjustments as far as I can see, the motoplat has slots where it gets attached, and there is a plate behind the motoplat which has three screws which can also be adjusted. On this plate there is an arrow and a mark on the body.

There is a 2.5 mm hole on the flywheel and the motoplat.

There are pictures here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_U7i5Hd7WKpeUZDYzFNU2FEcHM

 

My best shot is find TDC on a gauge, set the back plate to TDC, put the motoplat on and dont tighten the screws, put the flywheel on the shaft with the keyway in place and tighten a bit, use a 2.5 mm drill to line up the flywheel and motoplat and adjust so cylinder is 1.8 mm(?) before TDC. *If I cant get 1.8mm of play, go back to start and put first plate before TDC.

 

 

is that it?

 

Ideally I would like an easy kick start, what timing for that?

 

 

thanks

That's easy here the pages of the manual for the TR34:

 

 

For timing I suggest to use 1,6mm before TDC as stated in the manual, 1,8mm makes starting more difficult especially when the engines is cold,

(at least in my experience the motor doesn't like to start when it's colder outside, probably the Italian genes? but once warmed up starts then easily,

For easy cold start I lean myself standing in the footrest on the bike against a tree ... then a good firm kick were you can put your body weight in.

Then mostly nothing happens after first while the second kick then awakes the engine).

 

I too use for trials riding a colder plug (manual states Champion N3C which is between NGK B7ES to NGK B8ES) which makes starting also easier,

the B7ES plug looks too much better and doesn't foul as easy then the B8ES, but it's probably just my riding style, if your plug looks really good you

should stay with the plug you haven choosen.

 

 

 

your best bet is to use a dti gauge to find tdc then mark your flywheel and case the turn the engine back 1.6mm on the clock and mark the flywheel again then as you say line up the holes in the flywheel and stator using a 2.5mm drill bit the holes will end up somewhere near the 4-5 o clock position this should get you in the correct screw holes on the stator you can then use the marks you put on the flywheel and case to check the timing with a strobe light once the motors running if you need to 

thanks ever so much, I think I can manage now, I will be back if I need help.

Back again, what should I set the torque wrench to to tighten the flywheel nut?

ta

OK here you are, again from the manual, as it's so nice pictured there:

 

 

Thanks for all the useful info on here guys but does anyone have a wiring diagram for the cdi/stator ? took pics before I took apart but phone died

Hi

Working with my -89 stripey.

is it the same procedure for -89?,or should the stator be fitted differently?The piston is at the bottom of mine when the drill fits in the stator? ?

Thanks

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