June 30, 20188 yr Author 5 hours ago, oni nou said: There are plenty of warnings here that the 75/80 is a little too viscous for your clutch which on the Beta is known for being sticky...you need a very thin lubricant that is compatible with a wet clutch ....as you obviously do not want to spend a lot of money if any then ATF dexron III made by Carlube that is available in some supermarkets is an option ......this is nice and thin which will help your clutch action But more important to you....its cheap. No please dont get me wrong im quite happy to spend what i need for the bike to run correctly and safely....its just i have 10 liters of the 75w80 in my garage and wounderd if i could use it in my bike ....i.allways thought synthetic oil was the dogs boll*x.
June 30, 20188 yr Not to overstate what should now be obvious, but again (read the description and note the two quoted viscosities): http://www.silkolene.com/motorcycle/gear-oils/gear-oil-light/ https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/transoil-expert-10w-40 Etc etc. I think you get it now.
July 6, 20188 yr Author just an update , i purchased Putoline light gear oil in the end , i now find my clutch is "snappy" ....like as i let the clutch out ...or feather the clutch it doesn't engage smooth through the clutch leaver travel, its as if the clutch plates "grab each other now ....anyone experience this Cheers Neil
July 6, 20188 yr Author Hi, Havnt been inside the engine...this has only happended since the oil change ...i.dont know what the previous owner had used.in the gearbox
July 22, 20188 yr Author Update : i have been running now with the FUCHS .....TITAN CYTRAC MAN SYNTH SAE 75W-80 and have seen no issues (granted im no experienced rider doing tricks and hops but i have ridden regularly up my local forestry which can be challenging Neil
July 22, 20188 yr So the oil companies invest millions in developing different oils, the bike/car/ lorry manufacturers invest millions in development to arrive at a suitable oil to suit their needs and then you want to ‘try’ a different oil....well good luck with that one. The oil specifications aren’t like shirt sizes they are arrived at by exacting scientific trials...ahem sorry about that....if you know better then you should be in the oil industry. Use what the bike makers states otherwise you will be wasting your time and money.??
July 23, 20188 yr Author 9 hours ago, section swept said: So the oil companies invest millions in developing different oils, the bike/car/ lorry manufacturers invest millions in development to arrive at a suitable oil to suit their needs and then you want to ‘try’ a different oil....well good luck with that one. The oil specifications aren’t like shirt sizes they are arrived at by exacting scientific trials...ahem sorry about that....if you know better then you should be in the oil industry. Use what the bike makers states otherwise you will be wasting your time and money.?? Easy Tiger ,,,,was only trying it out as part of the discussion so where do you see the problems arising by using this oil then? Edited July 23, 20188 yr by snorky29
July 23, 20188 yr 2 hours ago, snorky29 said: Easy Tiger ,,,,was only trying it out as part of the discussion so where do you see the problems arising by using this oil then? It wasn’t meant to come across as abrupt, apologises for my phrasing?Modern oils are a mine field of different additives and viscosity modifiers etc, using the wrong type can cause damage to sleeve bearings, bushes etc. More importantly, those members on this website have possibly tried many different oil types for just the few areas on a bike and have the knowledge and experience to offer sound advice and help with choices. As already stated by previous replies to your query, it’s the clutch which may suffer from incorrect spec oils. If it were my bike then it would be using the oil as specified by the manufacturer, the oil producers name might be varied but not the oil spec.?
July 23, 20188 yr Author 3 minutes ago, section swept said: It wasn’t meant to come across as abrupt, apologises for my phrasing?Modern oils are a mine field of different additives and viscosity modifiers etc, using the wrong type can cause damage to sleeve bearings, bushes etc. More importantly, those members on this website have possibly tried many different oil types for just the few areas on a bike and have the knowledge and experience to offer sound advice and help with choices. As already stated by previous replies to your query, it’s the clutch which may suffer from incorrect spec oils. If it were my bike then it would be using the oil as specified by the manufacturer, the oil producers name might be varied but not the oil spec.? No Worries my friend, discussion is good ......but as you may have read....some members have used or know someone who has used 80/75w oil and some members are dead against using anything other than what is stated by the manufacture. Now i have 10 liters+ of the oil stated in the discussion which is GL4 (as stated by cascadeimp1) is the code rated for motorcycle wet clutches ) this means i have many years of free oil changes if the oil is ok to use (i say ok to use) it may not be the best or what is advised by the manufacture ( which would have been advised as it would have been seen as a general purpose oil which is readily available and most certainly not the best oil avalable )...so i thought i would give it a go ...and to be perfectly honest i have had no clutch issues or gear change issues at the moment.....now the question is do i continue to use it
July 23, 20188 yr 22 minutes ago, snorky29 said: No Worries my friend, discussion is good ......but as you may have read....some members have used or know someone who has used 80/75w oil and some members are dead against using anything other than what is stated by the manufacture. Now i have 10 liters+ of the oil stated in the discussion which is GL4 (as stated by cascadeimp1) is the code rated for motorcycle wet clutches ) this means i have many years of free oil changes if the oil is ok to use (i say ok to use) it may not be the best or what is advised by the manufacture ( which would have been advised as it would have been seen as a general purpose oil which is readily available and most certainly not the best oil avalable )...so i thought i would give it a go ...and to be perfectly honest i have had no clutch issues or gear change issues at the moment.....now the question is do i continue to use it You mean 75W/80, GL specifies it as transmission oil...gearbox if you will; there will usually be a US Army spec number after the GL4 or GL 5. The old SAE way of grading oils is not good enough for them! The oil is not intended for wet clutches unless it specifies this in the info and that’s where you may have problems sooner or later. Fully Synthetic oil in the wet clutch may render any gripping force between friction plates as redundant so you’ll have a slipping clutch....bound to some cases where this hasn’t happened. Potentially there may be some chemicals in the oil that will attack bearing surfaces such as bushings and any phosphor materials in the box. The amount of oil contained in your bikes gearbox is not that large, so getting the right stuff should break the bank, yes it would be nice to dump out the oil after each ride and know you have a large supply. So way up all the advice and make the decision based on what everyone has said. Now you’ll be riding and wondering if all is well between those engine cases??? Is there any detailed info on your 10 litre container about the oil? ?? Edited July 23, 20188 yr by section swept
July 23, 20188 yr Author 7 minutes ago, section swept said: You mean 75W/80, GL specifies it as transmission oil...gearbox if you will; there will usually be a US Army spec number after the GL4 or GL 5. The old SAE way of grading oils is not good enough for them! The oil is not intended for wet clutches unless it specifies this in the info and that’s where you may have problems sooner or later. Fully Synthetic oil in the wet clutch may render any gripping force between friction plates as redundant so you’ll have a slipping clutch....bound to some cases where this hasn’t happened. Potentially there may be some chemicals in the oil that will attack bearing surfaces such as bushings and any phosphor materials in the box. The amount of oil contained in your bikes gearbox is not that large, so getting the right stuff should break the bank, yes it would be nice to dump out the oil after each ride and know you have a large supply. So way up all the advice and make the decision based on what everyone has said. Now you’ll be riding and wondering if all is well between those engine cases??? Is there any detailed info on your 10 litre container about the oil? ??
July 23, 20188 yr Author i appreciate Beta is not on the list, from memory i think an oil change comes in at £8 ...now each change comes in about 20hr riding (im not sure surely all types of engines have bearings and bushings , not sure about phosphor as you can see advice does vary, thats what is interesting about the topic of oil Edited July 23, 20188 yr by snorky29
July 23, 20188 yr 4 minutes ago, snorky29 said: That’s heavy vehicle..truck... rated oil...lorries, dumper trucks etc. Probably axle types too!
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