Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
dozerash

SWM Modifications

Recommended Posts

On 06/10/2018 at 4:29 PM, motoswm said:

If you find an Aprilia TXR or Climber clutch cover, make sure you get hold of the clutch pressure plate and the centre hub, makes it feel about 20% lighter over the standard SWM parts

20181006_130021.jpg

@brownie001

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I’m planning on going through my 1982 TL320 this winter. I’m thinking of making it my semi modern bike. I seen someplace where someone installed a front disk brake. I’ve also seen some hydraulic clutch mods on the SWMs. Electronic ignition and new carburetor. Any other ideas? I have a 1980 TL320 that’s mostly stock (except electronic ignition) that I can use for vintage legal events. The 1982 I would use in modern events. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
7 hours ago, dozerash said:

Something like this for a front brake.

D09682B4-1AA9-47DF-95C5-77B867198C30.jpeg

8C47A9FE-253A-4D4C-8820-3F2E04D5D97B.jpeg

DBA7CFC2-329C-4297-8BB0-1D7E43FB32FB.jpeg

For me that would spoil the look of the bike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

@feetupfun , I agree, and I have a brembo disc and m/c on another bike and they are no better than a good condition standard setup with modern brake shoes.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Anyone try one of these for hydraulic clutch?

TC-Motor Red 1200mm Line Hydraulic Clutch Handle Lever Master Cylinder For Pit Dirt Bike Motocross Motorcycle 

 

Edited by dozerash

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
11 hours ago, dozerash said:

Anyone try one of these for hydraulic clutch?

TC-Motor Red 1200mm Line Hydraulic Clutch Handle Lever Master Cylinder For Pit Dirt Bike Motocross Motorcycle 

 

I haven't used one myself yet but have seen them in use on some old trials bikes and was thinking of trying one on a KT250 as part of a silly game with a friend who has an unusual clutch system on his KT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I know ATK modified the Magura hydraulic kit to fit the ATK 406 Rotax (similar engine as the 350 SWM Jumbo). Not sure if there set up would work on the 240/280 rotary valve engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

The cheap ones I've seen come with an M8 x 1.25 thread slave cylinder mount/adjuster which I see as an advantage compared with the arrangement on that Magura

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
On 11/21/2019 at 1:22 AM, b40rt said:

Have you checked which springs are in the clutch ? 

When I bought the bike it had a couple of clutch springs removed. It slipped way too much for my weight. I reinstalled all the springs. It’s not super hard to pull in just not a one finger pull. Thought a hydraulic setup would make it one finger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
On 11/19/2019 at 3:37 AM, b40rt said:

@feetupfun , I agree, and I have a brembo disc and m/c on another bike and they are no better than a good condition standard setup with modern brake shoes.

I put new shoes and cable, cleaned and lubed everything and they work much better than the Ossa I had but still not great. Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, dozerash said:

I put new shoes and cable, cleaned and lubed everything and they work much better than the Ossa I had but still not great. Any suggestions?

Machine the brake drum surface smooth and true and fit brake shoe linings that are sized to exactly match the drum diameter.

This usually requires relining the shoes with oversize lining material (5mm or 6mm thick) which is a service available through automotive brake repair shops. The linings are then machined or ground back to match the drum. Choose a lining material that provides the most friction. The ones I use are forklift brake lining material and after doing what I have described, are every bit as good as the two-pot Brembo disc front on my TY250Z. I've heard there is also lining material designed to work on brakes that operate under water and that this material works well on trials bikes (that often have wet brakes) but I haven't tried it yet.

If you try and do the radius matching without fitting thicker linings the angle of the actuation cam will cause sliding of the edge against the cam follower and this creates extra friction and springiness. There is a cheapskate way to get away without getting thicker linings. By packing out the pivot end of the shoes and then machining the linings back to match the drum. This can even be done with shoes that have a full circle pivot hole like a Bultaco (by rebushing the pivot hole off centre)

Edited by feetupfun
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...