stu Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Think the key to all this is in the last post,well in part.My cub is standard engine (trials gearbox)monoblock carb standard forks, rebuit, and a nice rear end set up with good brakes. This bike goes very well, gives good throtlle response at all positions and grips. Its all about how the bike is set up. Then ride it with confidence and you won't want to snap open the throtle. This is why the top lads have gone down to 19mm, to use all the power at the bottom end. Last weekend I took out my cub for a bit of practice with some good twinshock riders and they all had a go on my bike. Now bear in mind South West France is not pre 65 country, this is Fantic/Honda, land they all said the same, 'she goes better than my Honda'.........Sold it on the spot..... Set it up right is the key..PS, I'm going to buil an Aermancchi 200 next...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrc1 Posted February 15, 2006 Report Share Posted February 15, 2006 (edited) Possibly 10 years ago I tried Boyer system on my cub (SH engine with TL carb) and it would either rev OR plonk. Depending on where you set timing. If you set for even tickover then it had the flat spot symptoms you describe (unrideable IMHO). Before I fitted Boyer there was no flat spot (points & coil). So I returned ignition to Boyer for testing & they said it was okay..........& sent it back!! It was then I gave up with the cub, I was spoilt by my modern bike you see. Much less prep time = more riding. I still have the cub & will clean it up for selling one day soon. Edited February 15, 2006 by hrc1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve+cub Posted February 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2006 over the last week or so the motor was pulled out stripped and checked, a 13 tooth gearbox sprocket fitted and then the motor rebuilt with new bearings and gaskets. Going out to try it today next step is probably a Rex Caunt ignition kit. new fork seals, stanchions, springs....... oh and alloy rims, new brake shoes....... what was it I said, "i'll get an old Cub for trialling it will be a lot cheaper than changing modern bike all the time" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted February 17, 2006 Report Share Posted February 17, 2006 Didnt listen did you? We could have told you so. Think we did actually. Look on the bright side at least the bike will hold it's value. How much is a 12month old Montesa 4T worth? At least your bike wont depreciate. Just dont add the cost up thats fatal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve+cub Posted February 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2006 Didnt listen did you? We could have told you so. Think we did actually.Look on the bright side at least the bike will hold it's value. How much is a 12month old Montesa 4T worth? At least your bike wont depreciate. Just dont add the cost up thats fatal. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> know what you mean about the depreciation on new bikes - very scary too late i've added it up 120 quid for the fork parts i'll be pushing 2 grand by the time i'm done, but dont tell er indoors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted February 19, 2006 Report Share Posted February 19, 2006 my accountant tells me that its better to spend money now and quickly! as tax on purchases is only 17.5%. tax on savings is 30% during thier life time and then another 40% at the end of your lifetime. i didnt work as an argument with the missus though but its amazing how much you can buy with 10 quid if she asks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoke Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 Look up 'Bushmans carb tuning secrets' on the net. It is the best, common sense info I have ever found. Even tells you how to set the float level which I have never seen written anywhere. My cub runs a 22mm concentric and ran like a pig until I set the float level correctly. A bit of time, patience and the right information pays off. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian h Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 A long held view on spitback When the 149 Terrier and 199 Cub appeared in 1954/55, they both lacked flywheel weight, spitback was common place aided by the Lucas distributor. Subsequent models had heavier flywheels, points in the side cover being an improvement, however, there has always been a flywheel weight shortfall - the flywheel balance factor was too high - principally designed to be a peppy little four stroke (which it was) and did not like ultra low rpm Trials work, locking up the ignition advance / retard mechanism helped. I built a Triumph 149 Terrier Trials model some 25 odd years ago replicating a factory model built by my mentor Triumph teamster Jim Alves (Refer Don Morley's book on British Trials Motorcycles) which I still own. I use a total loss 12V battery ignition and removed the Lucas RM13 Alternator / Rotor, and designed a third flywheel to take the place of the Alternator / Rotor inside the primary case which has produced amazing low rpm / accel results. I rode Trials Cubs in the 1960s and P65 events in NZ - I still believe a Cub has to be ridden with a bit of determination and use the tap!! - it has to be this way to make up for only 199cc - the spitback can be helped by modern carburation and ignition, however, its a design shortcoming from the days when mototorcycle manufactures simply converted a road motorcycles for Trials / Scrambles use often with very poor results. My advice - change your riding technique, the Cub likes a bit of stick !! Brian H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickymicky Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 Look up 'Bushmans carb tuning secrets' on the net. It is the best, common sense info I have ever found. Even tells you how to set the float level which I have never seen written anywhere. My cub runs a 22mm concentric and ran like a pig until I set the float level correctly. A bit of time, patience and the right information pays off. Good luck Its all good stuff. All that about clearing the pilot bush seems a bit over the top though- simply drill out the pilot bush and fit a removeable pilot jet in the threaded hole where they used to be on early concentrics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickymicky Posted June 24, 2006 Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 I agree with that Mick, it was the float height bit that I didn'yt know about!Big John I didn't either. I wasn't aware either until recently that the float level influences the mixture thoroughout the range. After years of problems with the Ariel spitting at the worst possible time, i raised the float level and it cured it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.