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I've just bought a slightly secondhand Epure Race. First ride yesterday and I absolutely loved it. It's the Mutt's nuts, the dog's danglies, the canine's gonads, and every other euphemism you can think of.

I'm now just starting on working through everything, cleaning, adjusting and learning, so I have a couple of questions to start off with:

  1. Does anyone have a clever way of refitting the chain tensioner? It came off with a mighty ping and looks like it will be a swine to get back on.
  2. Where is the oil drain plug and level window? So far I've only found the filler.

Thanks.

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1. Chain tensioner. I phoned Inch Perfect for advice on this. Apparently there's a special tool (not surprised) but it can just about be done without. With the aid of a couple of lumps of wood, a Workmates and a trolley jack I managed to get the tensioner on with the hook end not hooked around the tensioner arm. Then the final easy bit (well, easier) was to pull the hook onto the arm with a spring hook. I think I may get the special tool before next time!

2. I was just being a bit thick. The drain plug and sight glass are on the inside of the case facing the right hand side of the bike. Access isn't great and it would be messy to drain the oil with the bash plate in place so I took that off. Putting it back is a bit fiddly because all four fixing points rely on loose nuts, but on the positive side the sight glass is very readable, unlike my old Beta where I was reduced to just using it as a level plug.

Given the simplicity of an electric bike, I was surprised to find it's not as easy to work on as I expected. No doubt I'll find all the shortcuts in time though. I hope this helps any other new EM owners who might be caught out like I was.

Edited by trapezeartist

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I just jacked up the left side a the bike a bit so when I pulled the plug- all the oil just went down the skid plate and out.   Just a paper towel to clean up and not big deal.

Mine looked very clean at 40 hours, just a tiny bit of ‘fluff’ on the magnet. I did use the recommended oil, mostly since I like the way it works now and sometime a change can make it a bit different.  Plus it wasn’t that much more anyway

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On 5/30/2021 at 9:58 PM, lotus54 said:

Mine looked very clean at 40 hours, just a tiny bit of ‘fluff’ on the magnet. 

Hoping mine looks as good, when it comes time!

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My 2021 EM Race oil was pretty clean at first 40 hour oil change.  As lotus54 said, a bit of fluff on the magnet. I'm thinking of 3D printing a threaded tube for the next oil change so I won't need a paper towel to wipe up the skid plate. 

If I got the right parts, JST Type Automotive Connectors 02T-JWPF-VSLE-S and 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S 2 Pin Waterproof Connectors Male and Female Butt Plugs, from Amazon are the right size to plug into the connectors under the top panel. These are assemble yourself connectors so I can't recommend for people who haven't done a lot of electronics assembly. My plan is to find a pushbutton switch in my spare parts pile and wire up the regen braking. 

Someone mentioned their EM making a big noise on hard landings...I have a Beta Evo that does the same and figured I was hitting the limit on suspension travel...especially given the sensation in my ankles!

I've used a 2500 watt Craftsman generator to recharge in the field, the 15A charger, no issue, except my riding buddies complained about the generator noise. 

I am seeing about 0.8% of full charge/minute of charging time, which works out to just about 2 hours to go from 0% to 100% again the 15A charger.

The following link is a study from the University of Michigan on extending the lifetime of the battery.  Lifetime meaning how many charge/discharge cycles you can get. 

https://news.umich.edu/tips-for-extending-the-lifetime-of-lithium-ion-batteries/

The attachment is a paper from the U.S.A. Federal Aviation Admin on how to extinguish lithium ion battery fires. I've not heard of these bikes having an issue...I did purchase a 2.5 gallon water fire extinguisher because of the claims in the paper.

If anyone has a suggestion I am interested: Front brake goes soft in a severe tip right hand turn. I've topped off the reservoir and am going to bleed it today. When bike is upright, there is no meniscus visible in the brake reservoir window and brake lever has normal resistance to squeezing. When I practice slow right hand turns with my body way outside so I can really lean the bike and practice stopping and balancing mid-turn, I can see the meniscus appear and it looks like "air" is intersecting the brake line which would explain the softness of the lever. When I topped off the reservoir it spewed oil as the cap and rubber thingy were replaced so I'm not sure how to get any more oil in?

 

 

TC-13-53.pdf

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22 hours ago, Joule said:

If I got the right parts, JST Type Automotive Connectors 02T-JWPF-VSLE-S and 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S 2 Pin Waterproof Connectors Male and Female Butt Plugs, from Amazon are the right size to plug into the connectors under the top panel. These are assemble yourself connectors so I can't recommend for people who haven't done a lot of electronics assembly. My plan is to find a pushbutton switch in my spare parts pile and wire up the regen braking. 

Really cool that you came up with the connectors. Thanks! I have attached a pic I grabbed from one of John's (Ka Uila Motors) YouTube videos. Look below his thumb and you will see a mini-lever style trigger-switch that he is using for his region braking. He is selling the whole setup, plug-n-play ready as an alternative to a push button. To me, that is the solution that makes the most sense. Being skilled in electronics, I want to save the cost by assembling my own. However, so far, all of my search efforts to find a trigger-switch like that have turned up nothing. Danged if I can find one!

Screen Shot 2021-09-15 at 10.22.26 AM.png

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If you look close, there appears to be a cutout for a cable in the lever. Maybe it's a clutch or brake lever with  safety or brake light switch.

1611895619_ScreenShot2021-09-15at10_22_26AM.thumb.png.920d29e20d94521cf40f430b714dddf7.png.df8b34b2cbef55e56772a4e53719e051.png

                                                                                                                                    Here

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On 9/14/2021 at 9:40 AM, Joule said:

My 2021 EM Race oil was pretty clean at first 40 hour oil change.  As lotus54 said, a bit of fluff on the magnet. I'm thinking of 3D printing a threaded tube for the next oil change so I won't need a paper towel to wipe up the skid plate. 

If I got the right parts, JST Type Automotive Connectors 02T-JWPF-VSLE-S and 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S 2 Pin Waterproof Connectors Male and Female Butt Plugs, from Amazon are the right size to plug into the connectors under the top panel. These are assemble yourself connectors so I can't recommend for people who haven't done a lot of electronics assembly. My plan is to find a pushbutton switch in my spare parts pile and wire up the regen braking. 

Someone mentioned their EM making a big noise on hard landings...I have a Beta Evo that does the same and figured I was hitting the limit on suspension travel...especially given the sensation in my ankles!

I've used a 2500 watt Craftsman generator to recharge in the field, the 15A charger, no issue, except my riding buddies complained about the generator noise. 

I am seeing about 0.8% of full charge/minute of charging time, which works out to just about 2 hours to go from 0% to 100% again the 15A charger.

The following link is a study from the University of Michigan on extending the lifetime of the battery.  Lifetime meaning how many charge/discharge cycles you can get. 

https://news.umich.edu/tips-for-extending-the-lifetime-of-lithium-ion-batteries/

The attachment is a paper from the U.S.A. Federal Aviation Admin on how to extinguish lithium ion battery fires. I've not heard of these bikes having an issue...I did purchase a 2.5 gallon water fire extinguisher because of the claims in the paper.

If anyone has a suggestion I am interested: Front brake goes soft in a severe tip right hand turn. I've topped off the reservoir and am going to bleed it today. When bike is upright, there is no meniscus visible in the brake reservoir window and brake lever has normal resistance to squeezing. When I practice slow right hand turns with my body way outside so I can really lean the bike and practice stopping and balancing mid-turn, I can see the meniscus appear and it looks like "air" is intersecting the brake line which would explain the softness of the lever. When I topped off the reservoir it spewed oil as the cap and rubber thingy were replaced so I'm not sure how to get any more oil in?

 

 

TC-13-53.pdf 844.07 kB · 7 downloads

Regarding connectors...the attached data sheet from siliXcon has a "pinouts" section which lists the various connectors. There are several different types used, two pin, three pin, four pin.

datasheet_SC_rev_C_full.pdf

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On 9/15/2021 at 8:28 AM, dgshannon said:

Really cool that you came up with the connectors. Thanks! I have attached a pic I grabbed from one of John's (Ka Uila Motors) YouTube videos. Look below his thumb and you will see a mini-lever style trigger-switch that he is using for his region braking. He is selling the whole setup, plug-n-play ready as an alternative to a push button. To me, that is the solution that makes the most sense. Being skilled in electronics, I want to save the cost by assembling my own. However, so far, all of my search efforts to find a trigger-switch like that have turned up nothing. Danged if I can find one!

Screen Shot 2021-09-15 at 10.22.26 AM.png

I am interested in what you figured out with the regen. I've got parts on order to make my own switch assembly. First I am going to do some measurements and experiments. The controller on my 2021 Race has a PRB dongle which matches the video on the EM website that teaches how to install the FRB. If I looked correctly at the paused video the switch they attach has two wires which then connect to the Red and light Blue wires of the dongle. This leaves the black wire of the dongle unconnected. I want to believe the red wire is hot, the blue is for the wiper of a potentiometer, and black is ground. The measurement I will make when parts arrive is to see if red is hot, black is ground. If true, I am going to assume blue is wiper and not connect an instrument to it out of caution (avoid static discharge). The first experiment is to wire a 10K ohm pot to the PRB and see if there is adjustability to the regen braking. What I want to see is if the proportional feature is programmed in, can I find a resistance level which gives regen about the same as applying the rear brake lightly? My ultimate goal is to use a pressure switch on the rear brake, like for a brake light, to operate the regen. The idea being the regen will come on with light brake pressure before the pads really get a grip on the disc. I can then keep my white knuckles tightly wrapped around the grips.

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