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Has anyone drilled alloy Morad rims to fit security bolts?

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Just rebuilt a pair of wheels for the 191.Polished the hubs,got Mike Danby to re-line them.Inmotion supplied Morad rims but I had Central Wheel Components supply spokes.I have Michelin H/duty tubes and IRC tyres + security bolts ( all from in motion) but the rims aren't drilled for the security bolts.Has anyone drilled these?

Would put it opposite the valve but anything else I should or shouldn't do? 

IMG_20210613_190114_606.jpg

  • Author

Ah, I'll check that.Thanks. I'm sure the ones on my Nephew's gasgas contact were opposite though.

 

 

 

Mine are drilled as the following (working from photos hence the strange valve position of front wheel!)  Front is basically opposite but jump to next big gap either side.  Rear I run 2 rim locks.

Front:-

  • Valve - 2 O'clock
  • Rim Lock - 7 O'clock

Rear:-

  • Valve - 6 O'clock
  • Rim Lock 1 - 10 O'clock
  • Rim Lock 2 - 2 O'clock

My mechanic was cursing me when he fitted a tyre to my spare dual rimlock wheelset on my DR350!

  • Author

 Thanks for the info, that's a great help.I've just checked the original Akront rims...the front has one at about 120 degrees (  12 spokes between valve and bolt). The rear has two.One is only four spokes away from valve and  the second one 12 spokes further round but both on same half of wheel.

Because I built the wheels up before I noticed I'll have to drill from inside out which will made de-burring a bit harder!

Drill for security bolts where the spokes are widening out not tapering in, much easier to deal with like that.

colinf -

Dealing with the front wheel first :-

Placing the security bolt diametrically opposite the valve stem hole is a bad idea - as b40rt pointed out,  that's where the join weld is. This would be where the Akront label is placed on an original rim; also unsuitable for the reason that it's where two spokes are converging at the rim. Placing the security bolt hole as close as possible to opposite at a point with diverging spokes would locate it at just two nipple holes away from the join weld, probably equally undesirable.

If you look at your wheel, you will see that the nipple holes/dimples in the rim are disposed in (nine) groups of four. I have only original Akront rims and all are drilled the same, with security bolt hole between 3rd. and 4th. groups from the valve hole, between 12th. and 13th. spoke from valve stem. ..  Viewing wheel from the left, this means that with the valve at 6 o'clock, the security bolt hole is at 10 o'clock, i.e. security bolt trails valve in forward rotation.

Hope this makes sense.

Looking at your pic. something doesn't look quite right with the rear wheel lacing..........

  • Author

Right, diverging not converging spokes.....got that.

Lorenzo, what specifically looks wrong to you?  I posted the pic so that anyone could point out if I'd done something wrong, I wouldn't be offended as I'd like to do it right ( learning curve as these are the first wheels I've built).These pics and the parts manual are what I used as a guide ( I didn't strip the original wheels, they were in bits when I got the bike).

IMG_20210615_143053_294.jpg

IMG_20210615_143230_819.jpg

As an aside, the spare DR wheelset is also Akront. Did you want me to measure position of the rim locks as well?

colinf -

There may well be nothing wrong and  it could just be the angle the wheels are at to the camera........a full side-on shot of the whole wheel from the right (non-brake) side would probably help.

Don't worry about it being a learning curve ; I also like to do things right (first time if possible) and after decades of working with bikes I'm still learning, too.

 

colinf -

Yes, that's clearer - it was probably just the angle of the camera. as I said earlier.

Do you know the gauge of your new spokes ?

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