February 24, 20233 yr Author Thanks just having a quick look now, double checked the plug gap, all good, still no spark, smelt of fuel scraped the inside of the plug cap with a small screw drive put back on kicked it over & it started maybe a coincidence ran for a bit then cut out kicked it over again & it started so rode it round the garden for 5 minutes before it cut out again then won’t start will undo the banjo on the injector to see if fuels flowing ok slackened off the throttle cable a little but that hasn’t made a difference tick over felt high once fan kicked in so will back off half a turn (from 3 1/2 turns out from fully in) Start again on Sunday wish me luck!
February 24, 20233 yr That is good news at least you got a little run time. If it started after playing with the plug cap, maybe attempt to pull the cap off and check to make sure it has a good seat to the plug wire? I wouldn't expect it to be an issue on a newer bike but I have had issues with them in the past so might just need to be twisted on a bit tighter to get a good connection? Otherwise check the ground wires/connections to the coil as they might be loose and playing with the plug cap/wire jiggled them? Good luck.
February 25, 20233 yr Make sure you disconnect the lanyard or kill switch first. Probably unlikely, but test the pick up coil. I’ve seen one of those go off before
March 4, 20233 yr Author Well..... just got some time to have another look, took HT lead off again gave it a little scrape with a screw drive again put back on kicked over2nd kick so let it run for 15 minutes, turned it off & left it for 5 minutes kicked it over started 1st time let it run again for 10 minutes turned it off & fitted my long range seat & number plate kicked it over started 1st time so when for a10 minute ride on the road came home turned it off & left it a while then every now & then kicked it over & all seems well.... all ive done is removed the BAS, slackened off the throttle cable, scraped the inside of the HT lead & its running Check resistance on the coil & its 3.2 still cant get the tachometer to work, can’t get the RPM to read the1 P: 1r or 1P : 2r or 2P:2r as per instructions i am reading the MMright aren’t i?
March 14, 20233 yr Author Also went to a warmer spark plug over the weekend (5) which seems to have helped a lot just picked up a tachometer so will see what the idle speed is currently running at thanks
March 15, 20233 yr Author Used tachometer earlier was ~ 1,450 rpm so increased it to 1,800 rpm which did feel & sound high so dropped it to a little over the bottom limit ~ 1,750 rpm still not starting from cold on 2nd kick as previously did but starting & running plus fan kicking it frequently coolant at correct level will continue to monitor it before getting out properly once it’s warmed up a bit 🥶🥶 thanks
March 15, 20233 yr It does not make enough current if is to low. Hence not starting. I set mine to start at 1850 and let it idle for a few minutes. I never take off until it stays between 1900 and 2050. Nothing worse than a 4rt when it starts running like crap. I bought my tach before the bike. It took me about 14 months until I installed mine. Now a believer. 1750 is too low, unless your tack is off.
March 15, 20233 yr Author Thanks lineaway will see what it’s like on Friday & up it to 1,850 rpm minimum as you recommend & go from there still makes me wonder why my issue started in the 1st place thinking on I had a workshop fit apico clutch plates along with headstock bearings & a couple of other jobs & I’m wondering if they may have lowered the idle rpm cookiemonster
March 15, 20233 yr Yeah, we do alot of elevation changes. You take a 4rt up to 12000 ft elevation and the thing won't start until you open up the idle screw. I thought I could just do it by ear. No, almost but not well enough.
March 17, 20233 yr Author Got bike out today & it kicked over from cold 2nd kick took my time to get the kick starter to feel right if you know what I mean upped the rpm to ~ 1850 & it does fluctuate a bit but guess that’s normal so is the ecu that clever that it resets itself now the idle is within range? Making it start easier? weather a lot warmer today in the UK may have helped im just using the tach as & when I need it as I already have one bolted to the bike which I can’t get to go to 1P:2r anyone have any ideas? Holding the button in to change from hours to rpm works but holding the button in until it gets to 1P:2r doesnt thanks
March 18, 20233 yr Yes the ecu is that affected by what the idle is set at. Both my 07 4RT and my 17 300RR will be very hard to start if I don't have them set to ~1800.
April 3, 20233 yr Author Bikes starting as it should now on 2nd kick or sometimes 1st Tacho reads ~ 1,450 rpm on start up then steadily creeps up to ~ 1,900 rpm before fan kicks in then drops to a steady 1,850 rpm is that how it works for anyone else? i know 4 strokes run hot & 4rt run at a high rpm but the fan is on almost constantly read before this is quite normal is this something I should be looking at? thanks
April 3, 20233 yr My fan runs a lot on both my 4RT and my 300 RR, I was able to get it to run a little less by switching out for "Engine Ice High Performance Coolant" it seems to do a little better heat management than the stock Honda coolant in my experience but other than that the bikes seem to run fine and have never had a problem so figure its just the way they are. Example of what I have been using for reference. (No affiliation: https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/engine-ice-high-performance-coolant?sku_id=167223)
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