Magnetic kill switch lanyards

[hdscarbro]

On 12/14/2023 at 7:12 AM, trapezeartist said:

Getting back to the original question, I've never had a problem with a magnetic kill switch so I would not differentiate between Apico and Leonelli. I use the switch to disable my motor every time I stop, so IF the magnet ever came out it would be more likely to be when I am stopping rather than falling off. I wouldn't use the curly lead type sold for outboards as they are too stretchy and probably won't cut the motor unless you totally dismount.

My only issue with kill switches is the strap itself. Mine frayed for some reason and broke so it currently has a knot tied in it. Eventually I'll get round to replacing it. I really liked the link to Etsy but the postage costs more than the item so that's out.

I've looked for a less expensive way to ship to the UK than the US Postal Service, but haven't found one.  Would a UK discount help?  If it would help spur UK sales, I can consider it.   Also, shipping for any package 4 ounces or less costs the same, so ordering multiple items at a time is a cost reducing strategy.

Edited December 16, 2023 by hdscarbro

[hdscarbro]

On 12/12/2023 at 12:30 PM, dan williams said:

My evil nemesis Dave makes these. The lanyards are really good. Bright colors so you can find them and non-elastic so they don’t launch or hit you in various sensitive body parts when they come off the bike. Dave makes a lot of custom bits like number plates, choke lever extenders and kickstand feet.

NOTE: Dave isn’t really evil it’s just that I can’t beat the guy. Even though I’m on a ‘20 EVO Factory and he’s on an ancient TY175. 😃

It's the bike not the rider.  My ty has almost 50 years of experience. 😀

[dan williams]

On 12/16/2023 at 11:55 AM, hdscarbro said:

I've looked for a less expensive way to ship to the UK than the US Postal Service, but haven't found one.  Would a UK discount help?  If it would help spur UK sales, I can consider it.   Also, shipping for any package 4 ounces or less costs the same, so ordering multiple items at a time is a cost reducing strategy.

Maybe we should find a dealer in the UK for your lanyards/magnets and my clutch washers. Then we could just send over one box.😃

[dan williams]

The early Leonelli had the reverse magnet polarity to the Jitsie so they didn’t work if you mixed the cap and switch assembly. The problem is the way these switches work. A normally open magnetic switch doesn’t care about the magnet polarity but the normally closed switch does because it has a magnet in the switch housing that closes the reed switch. When a second magnet of opposite polarity is placed in proximity to the reed it cancels the field of the first magnet and the reed switch opens. As for the magnets falling out of the cap I’ve had a few do that. I drilled a small hole in the top of the caps and injected superglue in on top of the magnets. They’re not going anywhere now.😁

[bikerpet]

Who'd have thunk the humble kill switch would get so much discussion. 😁

Lanyards - anything non-stretchy. Webbing off a conference lanyard works nicely. Or fancy coloured boot laces. Or paracord available in a zillion colours. Used them all and nothing to pick between them in my opinion. Elastic is junk - I don't really understand why the pros use it still. Must be a reason, they don't do anything for no reason at that level. My guess is so it's maybe easier to get their score card/transponder out at end of section - might save a time penalty one day? But if your hands off the clutch the bikes probably not running anyway in that situation. A mystery.

Mounting - agree with the cable tie mount instead of the steel sticky-outy clamp (but I haven't taken my own advice on current bike).
I make sure the top of mine points forwards so it gets pushed on rather than off when struck, also makes it hang on a little tighter when jumping off, which is not a problem with non-stretch lanyard, and avoids the odd engine death when jumping off but not ejecting.
Top pointed forwards also completely avoids the really disappointing engine death when you do a successful leap up through the bars on a bigger obstacle ... and knock the button off with your hip. Grrr.
Pros have their clutches much further outboard than me for super quick clutch response, which would be a disaster for me. So mounting like them doesn't really work so well without a big long lanyard, I like mine shorter so they're less likely to snag.

Magnets - judiciously take a cigarette lighter to the plastic lip that holds the magnet in and mush it over a little more. Solves the falling out in seconds flat.

Polarity - As above quick heat with a cigarette lighter (damn, there's no one at events wearing a flat cap and a ciggy hanging out there mouth anymore, so lighters are at premium), flick the magnet out (or pull it out with another magnet) and turn it over. Heat seal back in.

Spare magnet - any old magnet of appropriate size stored on a handy bolt head. Under the top triple clamp on my TRS. Cylinder base bolts are often convenient and out of the way. Enough to get me back home.

Dan I'm not sure what you're saying is quite right. Many reed switches are change over and they don't care about polarity either. Just use the mode you want, NC or NO.

Lineaway has a thing about magnet lanyards - seems to hate them with a passion for reasons that escape me. Those non-magnet lanyards would truly **** me and I can hardly remember when a lanyard caused me more grief than a bit of inconvenience opening a gate cross handed. Horses for courses.

[jonnyc21]

9 hours ago, bikerpet said:

Who'd have thunk the humble kill switch would get so much discussion. 😁

Lanyards - anything non-stretchy. Webbing off a conference lanyard works nicely. Or fancy coloured boot laces. Or paracord available in a zillion colours. Used them all and nothing to pick between them in my opinion. Elastic is junk - I don't really understand why the pros use it still. Must be a reason, they don't do anything for no reason at that level. My guess is so it's maybe easier to get their score card/transponder out at end of section - might save a time penalty one day? But if your hands off the clutch the bikes probably not running anyway in that situation. A mystery.

 

I have thought more about your question on why the Elastic is used than most and where I am not sure about it I am of the perception that the primary thing around the elastic that most of the other options I have seen people come up with don't have is safety in relation to it braking if critical. 

Most of the replacements I have seen people make are of materials that I would never want around my wrist if that lanyard was to snag in something like the rear sprocket or the chain if still spinning, that could take a hand off.  I would much rather replace the elastic more often than have it not brake if it snags on something that has the mass/potential to do me real harm if it didn't brake.  (Is this likely?  I doubt it, but not worth the potential risk in my mind)

I would be happy to use something more like Lineaway dose before changing out the cord from elastic to something thicker unless I was able to come up with some kind of brake-away at the top where my wrist is that I felt would save me in the event it was snagged in a drastic way. 

[7heilRhino]

On 12/14/2023 at 4:12 AM, trapezeartist said:

My only issue with kill switches is the strap itself. Mine frayed for some reason and broke so it currently has a knot tied in it. Eventually I'll get round to replacing it. I really liked the link to Etsy but the postage costs more than the item so that's out.

I hated the elastic thing and made my own using the magnet, little black connector, some paracord and a bead. Works great! Nearly cost free. Give it a shot!

Edited January 4 by Robinhobbin
Misspelling

[bikerpet]

On 1/4/2024 at 4:50 AM, jonnyc21 said:

before changing out the cord from elastic to something thicker unless I was able to come up with some kind of brake-away at the top where my wrist is that I felt would save me in the event it was snagged in a drastic way. 

I remember thinking along those lines ages ago, but I guess I just got used to the light webbing lanyard (a Beta OEM lanyard) I have and forgot about it.
That's exactly why the neck name tag lanyards have that little plastic breakaway clip. I don't think I'd want to rely on one of those, but something similar.

Industrial fall arrest shock absorber devices use rows of lengthwise sewing that tear away, absorbing force as they break. That could be appropriate - Z fold the ends of the webbing over (so the stitching isn't in straight shear - that would be too strong unless you had very few stitches which would be susceptible to wear) then a couple of lines of stitching. On high load the stitching will tear down it's length before separating. Join at the back of the wrist.

I might give it a go with some old neck lanyard webbing.

I can see a cottage industry making non-stretch, breakaway trials lanyards. Thinking tiny-house cottage, perhaps tent size cottage even. 😀
 

[jonnyc21]

4 hours ago, bikerpet said:

I remember thinking along those lines ages ago, but I guess I just got used to the light webbing lanyard (a Beta OEM lanyard) I have and forgot about it.
That's exactly why the neck name tag lanyards have that little plastic breakaway clip. I don't think I'd want to rely on one of those, but something similar.

Industrial fall arrest shock absorber devices use rows of lengthwise sewing that tear away, absorbing force as they break. That could be appropriate - Z fold the ends of the webbing over (so the stitching isn't in straight shear - that would be too strong unless you had very few stitches which would be susceptible to wear) then a couple of lines of stitching. On high load the stitching will tear down it's length before separating. Join at the back of the wrist.

I might give it a go with some old neck lanyard webbing.

I can see a cottage industry making non-stretch, breakaway trials lanyards. Thinking tiny-house cottage, perhaps tent size cottage even. 😀
 

Ya I have a back burner thought on picking up several breakaway buckles and testing the brake point of an old tether strap and doing the same with the buckles and comparing the results to see if I can find something that would work well enough I would be willing to use. (Comfort would be a consideration as well)

Some examples of what I was thinking about testing...
My two favorites:

1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYY82XD/?coliid=I14TRKD5T1DIJG&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQV6QXKG/?coliid=IXJ1F5LZMCJJR&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I also found some others I was thinking to test as well. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DL1OI3K/?coliid=I9F82BXNUOCFO&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ9SBNH/?coliid=I3OC3XIHVYJGV8&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1D14GH/?coliid=I1DZW4HLW2WE2J&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

PS. If anyone beats me to this I am happy to give them the credit as it isn't really something I care to try and make into a product.  I will likely share the results here for everyone just not planning on making any for others.

Edited January 6 by jonnyc21

[Knobbytracks]

@jonnyc21:

I made my own using 5 mil paracord from Hobby Lobby and these connectors from Amazon: Amazon.com: Photo Trust 4 Sets Mini QD Loops 1mm System Connectors Quick Neck Strap Adapter Quick Release Compatible with Fujifilm Samsung Sony Olympus Panasonic Canon Nikon Pentax : Electronics

To loop and connect the paracord, I used heat-shrink tubing in hopes that if the lanyard were to get caught, this or the connector would be the weak point and break before anything serious happens.

Edited January 9 by Knobbytracks

[bikerpet]

@jonnyc21 I've never felt like the plastic safety clips would be either secure enough or comfortable. But assumptions are completely unreliable.

I've plenty of neck lanyards with them so perhaps I'll give one a try.

The other option I've used on other applications is to just butt melt the ends of the cord/webbing together. It's a little inconsistent but it does make a fairly secure weak point. Perhaps with an appropriate simple tool it would be easy to get a fairly consistent join?

Hmmm, might be today's project.

[jonnyc21]

On 1/8/2024 at 3:29 PM, bikerpet said:

@jonnyc21 I've never felt like the plastic safety clips would be either secure enough or comfortable. But assumptions are completely unreliable.

I've plenty of neck lanyards with them so perhaps I'll give one a try.

The other option I've used on other applications is to just butt melt the ends of the cord/webbing together. It's a little inconsistent but it does make a fairly secure weak point. Perhaps with an appropriate simple tool it would be easy to get a fairly consistent join?

Hmmm, might be today's project.

I have to agree on feeling that most would not be secure enough, part of why I was looking at ones online that I felt might be better.  As for comfort, I can only hope one I try is close enough that with a thin sleeve it might be decent but even then I think that will be the part that is the most difficult. 

I also had the thought of using some fishing line to connect the ends together as I could then figure out how many strands of what test was needed to match the breakaway of a current tether.  would solve the comfort issue that way as well.

Edited January 10 by jonnyc21