March 12, 200620 yr Hi I have just modified my Cub to run with PVL ignition, I set it up to Serco's initial figure of 3mm BTDC, it starts and ticks over much better now, though it seems lumpy and backfires abit at higher revs, I haven't tried it out in anger yet, just in the garage for short bursts to keep the neighbours sweet. Has anyone any info on timing set up, my cub is standard 199cc with standard cam and compression ratio. I will ride next sunday in a club trial and see how it goes. Any info appreciated. Triton
March 13, 200620 yr Hello, I cannot help you with your question but..........is 't difficult to put a PVL ignition in a Cub engine ?
March 14, 200620 yr Author Hi To fit PVL the lefthand crankcase has to modified,it can be removed with engine in frame if you have later type engine, ie three supports have to be fitted to mount the pvl stator assembly, the existing stator and rotor are dumped, a new pvl rotor fitted on the drive shaft.I would post a pic but my I.T.skills are limited I can e-mail if you wish. A few companies can do the job,Martyn Adams of Serco did mine about 280 quid, have a look at www.serco.uk.com for pictures. Triton
March 14, 200620 yr I have mine set at 4mm BTDC 199cc but have an R Cam in. I think it still feels a bit advanced ? Still runs smooth and revs out cleanly. Best bet is to have a play, leave the clutch cover off - the clutch and chain will survive without oil while you fine tune. Is is a static coil or with auto advance? I heard static was best for the 199, with the auto advance coil working best with the Serco 250 conversion.
March 18, 200620 yr Thanks Triton for your explanation, my Cub still runs on the original ignition on top of the engine, with an electronic rectifier and a large capicitoe to replace the battery. Cold pushstart and with a warm engine no problems kicking the engine and I'm still pleased with it. I'm worried at the moment that there's something wrong inside the engine and I placed a topic about that, golden glow oil. I have not got any replies yet !
March 19, 200620 yr Just fitted PVL to my C15 engine. I have yet to try to run the beast, but I'm allmost there. Keeping the rotor in place while you tighten the nut is a real challenge. How did you stop yours from rotating on the shaft?
March 19, 200620 yr "Keeping the rotor in place while you tighten the nut is a real challenge. How did you stop yours from rotating on the shaft?" Err i know it's a bit obvious bit i used the woodruff key I assume the person you bought the PVL off had already slotted the rotor?
March 19, 200620 yr "I assume the person you bought the PVL off had already slotted the rotor?" Nope - hence the problem. Hmmm... Do you know anyone that could slot the rotor for me?
March 19, 200620 yr Any good engineering firm should be able to. I bought my PVL from Alan Whitton direct. I'm amazed that people sell the rotors without broaching them You could give Alan a ring on 01246 419805 but i know he's very busy at the moment with people wanting stuff doing for the Scottish. He's also doing some stuff for me so get in the queue Who did you buy the PVL from if you dont mind me asking Perhaps you should ring them and point out that the rotor has no keyway. It should have otherwise the rotor could move insitu and upset the timing If you do use Alan or an engineering firm then make sure you clearly mark TDC on the rotor so that the keyway can be accurately machined. Good luck.
March 19, 200620 yr Author Hi Uncle The PVL rotor does NOT require a woodruf key,just polish off all the burrs from under the head of the rotor nut set the stator halfway in its slots, align the rotor with stator mark, with piston at correct measurement BTDC(cub is 3mm). Then torque up the nut with back brake on or soft drift jammed in primary chain(ouch)I needed a couple attempts before the timing was correct. My cub had its first outing today the difference was amazing clean tickover (even with Amal carb) and better response, all I need now is the skill to do it justice. Oh it did not start at first even with fat blue spark, I had to swop over leads from stator blue and black as instructed by Martin at Serco. Good luck
March 20, 200620 yr I've no woodruff key on my rotor and i've never had a problem, just put a new clutch and primary chain on no probs. the guy at Greystone tigercubs has all the bits and mails tham that day only once have i had to wait more than the next day for stuff.
March 21, 200620 yr Hmmm........I learn a lot from you guys....but why can't the stator be mounted on it's original place...........must be easier and no dismantling of the engine ?
March 21, 200620 yr Author Hi Uncle Glad you had success with rotor nut. I see you are in Surrey which club do you ride in? Will you be trying your bike out at the Sat practice days at Betchworth? if so I may see you there. Triton
March 21, 200620 yr Author Hi Fast Ferry, The chaincase would have to be modified to mount the stator in, then when assembled it would then be impossible to set the initial timing by aligning the marks on rotor and stator, or fine tune it by rotating the stator in its slots. Also the air gap is critical, so checking it impossible. triton
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