OK, so besides the usual "keep the revs up" is there any particular technique to minimizing stalling in sections? I am a relative noob to the 4RT and get more familiar with stall thresholds every time I ride but all input would be apprecitated and will help reduce my points!

Cheers

ive ridden a 315 for years and have just changed to a 4rt, i am amazed how hard it is to stall , it just keeps going at really slow speeds .

Hi Mark, have you checked the idle speed ?? It is fairly crucial that it is set right so as to avoid the stalling in section problem. We run 2 4RT`s and find that an idle speed of 1850rpm suits them best. It is not just a matter of listening to the motor running when it has got warm and thinking "yeah that sounds about right" because 9 times out of ten it wont be ! Treat yourself to a handheld revcounter to set it with and your stalling problems may well disappear,

regards

Howard

What rear sprocket are you running? most people find the standard sprocket a bit high geared, 43 or 44t seem to be the usual fittment.

Secondly technique does make a diffence, with the engine braking available from the motor the bike slows more rapidly than a 2T, I have found that stalling can occur if you snap shut after a step or similar.It takes a little time to get used to rolling off the throttle later and a bit more gently.

I run my bike at a measured 1650rpm and don't have any problem, generally if it is starting all right when hot, then tickover is fast enough.

We have two riders over in the West who have changed from 315 Monts to 4RT and have had no problems at all adapting.

Good luck

dude....put a 43 tooth on the rear and it will all go away

Its funny that I have a problem with the bike stalling. Its cost me a 5 in the last 2 trials I've ridden.

I tend to try and resolve the problem by correcting my riding rather than altering the bike, which I find to be superb. However the comments on the rear sprocket are noted.

i think turning up the tickover to the suggested 1800-1850 rpm is the answer

(Clutch and brake)

i replaced the rear sprocket with a 43 tooth

But after riding for 2-3 months I

Edited June 14, 200620 yr by rapid roy

Cheaper option would be to put the engine restrictors back in

the engine is smoother and very docile / mild

Ferret dude is bb king

I have all the restrictors in place and a prgogrammable throttle body set on the'softest'setting.

Not being a Mont man, what is this "programmable throttle body?"

boofont

modern trials bikes have fuel injection so you can program the engine power charicteristics to suit yor prefered style

did i say all modern trials bikes sorry i meant just the honda montesa

the others will catch up in a few years.

Seriously though i had a stalling problem when i first rode my monty but it was my boot just touching the rear brake pedal when i moved forward, moved the pedal stopped the problem

since having my 4rt which i think is 7 months i cant remember it

ever stalling, but i do like my idle on the high side

jsp

Thanks Guys - great feedback.

Well. Looks like it's me. I have a 43 T sprocket already. Idle is standard ( never changed from dealer) and restrictors are in. It may be "snapping off" the throttle after rolling over the obstacle. I will pay attention to that on the next practice. Someone told me that the new Mitani header exaust allows for less back pressure eliminating the "third brake" compression issue that may help in muddy conditions especially down hill. on a perticulary snotty down hill I locked up and stalled costing a 5. Bugger. Still there is the clutch I suppose...

Thanks again to all for the comments.

~Yep, that was me

The exhaust definitely reduces the braking effect of the closed throttle.

I began to doubt myself, but having switched back to standard, it is true!

Saying that, ...i still manage to stall it on a closed throttle

But thats cos i'm crap!!!!

What's stalling?? - 4RT owner x 2