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guy53

Members
  • Content count

    307
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

About guy53

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    TY 250 Beta Rev
  • Club
    Ataq

Profile Information

  • Location
    St-Jean-Sur-Richelieu,QC
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Footrest are standard, but a seat like that was not. It was avalable as an option part that you had to buy separately. The side stand is still there, nice bike Guy
  2. It seem's that it is fitted with the ´´ long seat ´´ , are the footrest standard or also changed for the trail version ? Guy
  3. Don't forget to check the keyway, small things are important, trust me. Guy
  4. There is always a bright side to a story: I was smart enough to buy all the parts needed for the job since the last rebuild, connecting rod, piston kit, seals etc., so hopefully I'll have it running like new for our big annual meeting with Mick. Guy
  5. Disaster: Just for fun I took the piston from the connecting rod, top bearing is done and yep the rod is corroded too, so crank job. I always use Shell Ultra that is suppose to be ethanol free. The transmission side is just as new, but the crankshaft side is very dirty with what look like rust mix with oil. There as been big change in temperature in the last few month especially in the period I was out of town, but I would have never believe that it could such damage. When I change the oil in the transmission I only ran it for a few minutes, probably long enough to '' spread the disease ''. Guy
  6. Scot I never heard about replacing the coil the way you did. Please give us feed back. I normally take the lighting coil out, if I can use them as replacement, I'll be more careful in storing them. Guy
  7. Now that my blood pressure is back to normal, I'm going to have a good look this evening, from what I can see with the cylinder off, only the part below the exhaust port is pitted. Guy
  8. Nope, always clean it dry ( with a rag. Guy
  9. Yesterday I took my B model out to make the final prep for today's friendly competition. I could not crank it, jerk it front and back it did not seem to be stuck, so I tought that the crank was the problem. After all it did start great about 3 weeks ago when I changed the transmission oil. After removing the side cover, everything looked ok, and I could not find the cause of my problem, took the clutch out, all the separate gear where free appart from the one on the end of the crankshaft. Than with the sparkplug out I tried to turn the motor: horror it WAS stuck. So head and cylinder off ( it was not stuck too hard ) I found water in the base, enough that the bottom of the cylinder is pitted. There was no water in the oil of the transmission ( I was not surprise by that ). It had good compression, no leak between the base and cylinder and the gas that I use is always fresh and clean. So where does that water came from, the only way it could get in the base is by the exhaust witch is in my opinion improbable. The exhaust would have to be full of water. Any idea ? Guy
  10. Read the Beta clutch fix by dan William ( in the Beta section ) it does apply and it's worth the effort. Guy
  11. The best are the one that are well tuned. Guy
  12. I made an extension for my 250 ( not off the shelf ) a few years back, and I did not felt such a difference, even if I oiled the cable until I followed JonV8 advise. I replace the cable with a new Venhill and oiled it with WD40 every ride. At our last TS meeting a few friend tried the clutch and the general comment was it's almost as light as a modern bike clutch. Guy
  13. There is a kind of vacuum that suck the brake fluid from the '' thank '' through the bleeder, maybe that could help. Guy
  14. And also the shock work the fork, a poorly setup front end won't give you the ride you are looking for, even if you have the best shock. Guy
  15. That's the glass bead ! Guy