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Thanks Woody, that's very interesting. I had a feeling it could be a standard frame, it's good to have it confirmed. I presume somebody must have chromed it to make it look like a special.

Can't you put videos?

I emailed Jitsie, and they responded that they hadn't had any problems with those springs. They asked me what year the bike was, and in the end, they brushed it aside, saying the spring wasn't suitable for my bike's year. I'm an amateur mechanic, and what I really enjoy is engine tuning. Back in the 1980s, I'd already tuned Vespa engines for racing, Puch Minicross engines with adapted Derbi cylinders, Puch Cobras manufacturing 6-stroke transfer cylinders... I have books from mechanical engineers on 2-stroke engine tuning, and also some MS-2 software for calculating reed valves, transfer case openings, and RPM, as well as calculations to determine carburetor diameters and some exhaust pipes, among others. What I mean by this is that I consider myself to have a minimum of mechanical knowledge, and I believe I know how to calculate BHP or RPM of an engine using mathematical formulas. I think that when I get a spring that they say is a clone of the original and it turns out the measurements don't match, I think I know how to perform the analysis and measurements to determine if it's good or not. You just have to look at the photos where it's clearly evident that they are not the same. I ordered the spring from a prestigious specialty store (they sponsor a private pilot in the World Championship), and they told me they didn't sell that spring because it didn't work. They sold the original. That's why I decided to order it directly from Jitsie. What I mean by this is that I don't like being treated like an idiot, and that my intention at all times is to give them information about the product they're selling, and that it's not what they say it is.

It's a 1972/73 Sherpa, the model number is 92. The frame/engine numbers are close because the UK importer used to sell them as 'kits' to avoid purchase tax, so when the bikes arrived from Spain with engine and frame numbers that matched, the importer removed engines and then sold a bike and engine to the customer as a 'kit'. It's a Bultaco frame, series 2 type 92, no idea why the top half looks chrome, the rear shock top mounts have been lowered to make them more angled. The tank is a UK made item as using the original Bultaco fibreglass tank on the road was illegal at the time as fibreglass tanks were outlawed, so UK bikes could have these fitted

Hugh would probably be able to answer your question. bultacoclassic.com

So, are you saying this is a standard frame which has been chromed?

92 SHERPA T 350 1972-1974 92.000.001

Hello. Is there an instruction book anywhere on how to get at the rebound dial and also on how to remove the shock. I'm also wondering what sag i should have etc. Thank you

What a belting find! not a clue on the info you are chasing but it will make a really good project! Kev

A funny thing happened over the weekend, I was on a green lane and as we slowed down at the end of the track an elderly chap came out of a house, flagged me down and asked if I'd like to buy a bike (like you do). Of course it's always impossible to resist and he took me into his shed and showed me a tatty old Sherpa which he said had been stored for the past couple of decades by his brother who had passeed away. The bereaved's family were going to put the bike in a skip but thankfully he stopped them doing that and rescued it. I'm not too well up on Sherpas and it's a bit of a mystery to me, the chap thinks it might be a Sammy Miller High Boy but I'm not so sure. The last High Boy I owned was a TL 185 version back in the 80s and my memory ain't what it used to be. Anybody any ideas what this is? The frame number, stamped on the head stock, is B 9203012 and the motor is M-9203037. The fact that the frame number is so close to the engine number makes me wonder whether somebody has simply chromed a Bultaco frame. The tank unit is alloy and it has what looks like an original Sammy Miller sticker stuck to the underside. There is also a large '3' stamped on the top tube. Anyway, I've bought it!.

Why don't you just re-anodize the original aluminum rims 🤔 there are lots of companies that specialize in aluminum anodizing.

I just did a quick search and found several, brand new items, for sale on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/195646716202?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOoomOfjjk6J1qizlK-8piLtZ_ho3WY4UugHqZiuMB2HSxx7CbhGYXZQ&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c https://www.ebay.com/itm/155406977666?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D290511%26meid%3D47427a76e5484a03a65637d71963318a%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D195646716202%26itm%3D155406977666%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV3WithCPCExpansionEmbeddingSearchQuerySemanticBroadMatchSingularityRecallWithVectorDbNsOptHotPlRecallCIICentroidCoviewCPCAutoWithCtrV3Enricher%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A15540697766647427a76e5484a03a65637d71963318a|enc%3AAQAKAAABgAwqOHi2KCgf4%2F6SZSv1me4ebI%2FvqXEw%2FHB%2F8iWWqhXshqX5uohPx20BUGvMHd%2FNVdDC4KI%2FKTb49Rx8STjwMT6FumfvwgT%2BuVTaR3SZ3p348VRbA%2FTZNiAsQeTGoW59%2BW%2FUJrXmpr5hhWbI9yTw1RGQbyjxPcAqegqth%2FU5%2B%2FpivkqsLe%2FrQerAcD9BuwDR6wUgBHtodmc1uq7p424y098nMOnZ%2FJ8K74j6raS9IHQXxfk3oLhYC5pznElmVY2kZSpu%2FcQyGizieKX3ySAcpajhd2NwT62aErWxGjSWeAAoc46SYMDNF%2FLzMnEAyTdzr765pho6A7HFzPZ1oV5KOWEvsyRwPfli8gI9whhucHqiU9uj%2BP7ww30cq88jDN%2F2LwCBkLIodChQUzCHJMKsvC64kEXfpkEgwBsuv2VvHuV%2B6%2FC1nfkX%2BdhT7GTDKd%2FsNMu6s989A%2B09Uh0tIuKt7fEALjlgyNIlUCx%2BdO2AKGBY82h7goQ7RQGERQWoxvo8xQ%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K2WT68YK12EZBFAENM9MV0MB

I am new to this site and this is the first post. I am looking to Refurbish my Honda TLR 250, it has the original wheels still in. I would like to replace them with the Gold colour again , But unable to fined a supplier . If anyone can please send me some details of a retailer so I can start the rebuild I would be Very great Full.Thank Rob.

Well I took it to a trials park and it wouldn’t start again, despite fitting a new plug and fresh fuel. Even after a couple of attempted bumping starts on a nice grassy banking there was nothing (thankfully I took my other bike as well).

As much as I'd like to help, it has never been my intention to give detailed troubleshooting instructions. There are a variety of reasons for this. You will probably need to fabricate the JST JWPF pick-off connectors described on my website. My advice is to find someone local who can assist you or perform the work.

Hi Mark are you still riding trials in the Columbus area? I’m looking to pick up a bike and get back into the sport. Jim

I’ve checked all the cables and they should be fine. To be honest, based on your links I don’t really know what exactly I should measure or how... do you maybe have any tips?

It's possible there is a fault in your wiring harness and the enable signal is not making its way back to the controller. There's good documentation here: https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/hw/esc/sc1/Wiring and here: https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/hw/esc/sc1/IO Bear in mind that the EM controller does not use the flip-flop function for enable. There must be constant battery voltage on the controller's "POWER" input to allow it to operate. Be mindful that there is a non-replaceable fuse inside the controller. Don't short the "KEY" pin to ground (that's why an external resistor is recommended for current limiting).

Yes, it already has the Silixcon controller. I also bypassed the kill switch following your very good instructions, but unfortunately without success.

Based on your prior description, I assumed you had the 2019 model year. That is the first year EM used the siliXcon controller. The wiring diagram will be very similar to the Epure bikes: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram No startup tones would seem to indicate the controller is not being enabled. Did you bypass your "Security Magnet" (kill switch) as I describe here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram#h.fogcawtque8h

Hey Guys, In the past few days, my Electric Motion Trial has occasionally cut the throttle while riding. Now it doesn’t work at all. The kill switch still lights up, but there is no startup sound and the map switch doesn’t light up anymore. The battery provides about 50V and the battery relay clicks as expected. I also tried bypassing the kill switch, but it didn’t help. thanks!

Just a heads up that the (whole) EM factory team are runing a couple of short EM training sessions at Kettering on the Monday (8 Sep) after the GP weekend. Its booked with Inch Perfect and only open to EM bikes. I have a TRS so it will just be the missus going. At the moment she is on her own so I am hoping this post might prompt some other people to book up or they will cancel it and I will never hear the last of it. Full details on the IP website.

Ok just an update.. the carburettor slide was gummed up And by the paperwork supplied by the previous owner they had paid a reputable bike garage to strip And clean the carburettor And service the bike seems the garage took the money And didn't do anything 🤦‍♂️

Hi all my ossa 350 has an Amal MK2 2627 carburettor fitted I want to buy a rebuild kit so does anyone have an idea on what jets, needle, And needle setting,and slide I need please,(slide is very worn)