Twinshock

I have seen a lot of post about modifying a twinshock bike to make it better for competition. I also understand that no one wants to see a modern bike(ie sherco) with a pair of shocks on it just so they can say it is a twinshock and compete in the twinshock class(sigh). I am riding a kt250 still stock enough to compete in ahrma events. But I can't for the life of me see how any modification on a twinshock bike can be that big of an advantage aside from disc brakes. A trick carb,300cc big bore kit,lowered pegs,hydraulic clutch,trick exhaust,tubless wheels,watercooling etc...do you really think modifying a twinshock will improve your score? I think not. I love my kt250 to d…

Hi all, I`ve kind of inherited a 242 montesa, trouble is its in a terrible state as its been left outside for years on the farm my dad shoots on. My question is were these mont`s any good and is it worth restoring? The one saving grace is its all original and all there and the forks look to be in reasonable condition some pitting but above the seal area, the engine has however seized up through being stood. Or should I save my money and sell it on or break it for spares. Any advice welcome. Andy

I need to repair a small area around the Kick start / Kick start return sping area. Has anyone a photo of a bare crank case, so i can see what it should look like the area i am intested in is the wall to the right of where the kick start shaft goes through the casing. Many thanks John H

Hi there! I Recently bought a KT 250 and have been looking around for a few spares. I have found a company in USA (California) and one in New Zealand that can supply certain parts but postage costs to the UK are pretty steep so just wondered if anyone knows of anyone in the UK that can provide parts for this model. I keep a look out on that well known auction site but as these bikes are pretty rare parts don't come up very often. Thanks Simon

Over the past few months I've dropped an XL185 motor in aTL125. Seemed fine on the first test run. Not so happy first and second gear don't always seem to engage when the engine is running,seems to engage but when the clutch is let out nothing - no drive? Third gear is fine and the engine seem to pull very well. Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks

Hello All I have just pruchased a 349 82-83 model. Silver frame and Forks, Red plastic tank and white aftermarket guards. It needs the uasual things to get it running. The rear muffler is not correct. Does anyone know where I could get one, it's the rectangular type. I have spoted a 348 but not a 349. I really need help with the Timing measurement in mm, I guessed it at 2.5 BTDC but have no idea. Also what oils are used in the clutch and gear box and quantity please. Regards Trials09

Hi Just want some idea of the value of the bikes above. Both start and run. The Yam not so well as I have not touched it for about 6 months but looks good and could do with a tune. The Ital is in very good condition, no rattles, plenty of power and it still has the original tires, Michellin, in excellent condition. I am thinking of listing them on Ebay. I have three other bikes (Montesas) and as I am getting on I just can't find the time to give them all a good run. What do you reckon would be a reasonable price to expect? The bikes are located in Australia. Thanks for any advice.

I know you can create anything with a welder........but has any one found a new style(WIDE) set that will drop in place? Thanks dgraf

What bars work best on a KT-250? The ones that were on it were sup high rise. Regular bars seem low and very close to me. The handlebar clamps on the triple clamps are way back near the tank.

I need some help here please. I have a 247 Cota around 74 75 vintage on standard bore (72.58) that has bad rattles in the top end. New rings, pin, bearing have not done much to stop the problem. I bought a new piston and rings advertised for a Cota 250 (72.75) (made in Italy) but have found that under the original packaging they are marked for a Bulty 250 Sherpa. That was crossed out and Cota written in texta. Both pistons are nearly identical. Original Cota has a port on the intake side with oval ends, the new one has a port with rectangular ends. High and low skirts appear to be the same. Ring pegs on the old one are at the front, the new one has them at the rear…

I now have a cota 247 Frame no 21M253** circa 1979/1980 I have seen a couple with mods done to the Rear Shocker angle and also the bottom tubes being replaced with a full (more modern style) one peice sump guard and obviously replacing the standard footpegs with some more modern ones. Does any one have a handbook/maual available with all of the fork/gearbox/clutch oil amounts etc Any advice would be a great help. Thanks & a happy New Year Wobbler

I found this blog by accident and thought other folk might be interested in looking as its got loads of old trials videos on it that I had not seen before. The only snag is its in French. Cheers Alan. http://trial-en-ancienne.skyrock.com/

Hi Folks, Does anyone know where I can find this decal, as well as any others that belong to this model Penton Mudlark / Wassell? Thanks

Hi folks, I am using longer shocks on my Ossa MAR. They give me more ground clearance and make turning easier, but they raise the pegs up as well. I was thinking about lowering my pegs. Just wanted some feedback on that idea. Thought it might bring my center of gravity down a bit. I put some aftermaket pegs on that are wider and have a lot of grip. These pegs ended up being higher than the stock ones which doesn't feel comfortable. Just thought lowering them even more might be better. I'm not that tall, but I feel like I'm too high and bending too much to get to the bars. Just an experiment over the winter. And I'm going to leave the stock mounts where they are and make n…

hello all, does any of you twinshokers out there run a tubeless michelin (with a tube) on the rear ?? i remember a few years ago i had a irc tubeless on the rear of a fantic and when you let the air out to 5psi it would break the bead and look like the wheel was buckled .i only ask as i have a new michelin in stock and my beamish needs a tyre. Thanks Paul.

I have stripped down the bottom end, to replace the main bearings and seals. I am looking for advice in which order to reassemble the crank and main bearings. Do you heat the two halves of the casing and fit the main bearings into the casing first and the fit the crank ? If so how do you know the position the bearings in the casing as there is no lip to push them up against.

I have a couple questions with regards to the above. I am at the point of putting the transmission into the engine cases. When locating the selector drum should it be in neutral or a specific gear and how do I tell if it's in the correctly selected gear? Cheers John

Sitting in the pub the other day talking bikes as you do the subject of spark plugs came up. Now the manufacturers have all "recommended" a grade of spark plug but that usually takes into account lots of peramiters which may or may not be applicable to how we use our bikes today. Very few now use them flat out on the road between sections for example. Now the old James seems best on an NGK BP5HS nothing like the manufacturers would have recommended. So what do you find is the best plug to use? This may be helpfull information to newbies to the wonderful world of twinshocks and Pre65 so dont keep it to yourself. Are iridium plugs worth it ? didnt seem to be an imp…

Hi, Cant be many of those works Kawa

Hello Im trying to find a set of black goneli fenders. I have seen them available in Europe but i cant seem to find them in the united states, does anybody know where i can find them in the U.S.? Thank You.