pauldalgarno

Any idea where I can get a touch up pot for the above folks? It's the standard Gas Gas red frame. Cheers, Paul

Cheers!

What's the pitch of the standard fit chain folks? Need to order up some new joining links.

Putting on the weight slows the engine spinning up and slows it from losing speed, so it takes the edge off the engine and calms it. OK if you don't need immediate pick up and fast engine braking, but less useful if you need a punch to get up a step for example. However, it makes it much harder to stall in the slow stuff or if you back off the throttle, so if you're a relative beginner like me it might help there if you stall a lot. I had good advice when I started - if you stall a lot then firstly try a slow throttle tube, then add a flywheel weight if required. As you improve you can remove them in reverse order to help you get up steps, or double blip to get over obstacles. Not sure about the 2008, but my 2005 benefited from some Boysen reeds with re-jetting along with the carb mods described in this forum. Not much more than

Sorry forgot to add it's a 2008 (2009 model year).

Just swopped from a Beta Rev 3 250 to the Gas Gas as above. I'm in my 2nd year in Trials, so ordered up a slow throttle tube, and another member's sold me a flywheel weight for a good price, so it should calm it down to my needs initially. Anything else I need to adjust for best running, or things to look out for on this bike in general to keep it reliable folks?

I've also done this with the exhaust flange on the cylinder head. Helicoils repair sets are excellent! A bodger's dream, but practice on something less valuable than a cylinder head, or fork leg first!

Also, don't squeeze the brake lever while the caliper's off, you might pop the piston seals. I do it often, and it's annoying to have to bleed the brakes when you don't need to....

Cheers folks, whipped the cover off and looked behind the impeller - wish I hadn't, it's riddled with holes Is there an anti-freeze that is non-corrosive for the new one? Looks like magnesium to me.

Hi folks, As above I've got water in the gearbox oil of my Beta Rev 3 250 (2005). Changed the oil, but back again immediately. My thinking is it's probably a water pump seal, but thought I'd garner opinion before stripping it down. Bike runs OK, and no overheating, so I'm assuming it's not a cylinder head gasket or O-ring up the top end. Any other potential causes or advice? Cheers, Paul

Looks like our next trial will be in the snow, as a 1st year rider what are the major tips for traction uphill, slow turns, and descents? Deep snow probably allows a lot of grip, but what about compacted snow, then icy stuff after a few riders have been through?

Hi Folks, Problem resolved when I backfilled the system. It forced some fluid back into the reservoir and it was dirty. Now changed the fluid by beeding new on top of old and clutch now OK. Will put the fluid on a 6 monthly replacement schedule. Also had a good look around all the other points to rule things out - plates are flat, all parts are present and correct, etc. Thanks for the advice all! Paul

Thanks everyone! I'll check out the easy things first, then move to the things to check by dismantling, then the expensive stuff. Off into the garage for the night! Paul

Hi again Dan, Found a diagram here http://www.trialsport.com.au/beta/Parts/Re..._270%202004.pdf Assume you mean part number 142 on page 2? I didn't have the clutch pump off, can the bearing fall out even without me being in that part? Cheers, Paul

Hi Dan, thanks for taking the time to reply. In answer to your questions.. 1) Using Putoline SA75W GP10. Drained and new put in before last run. 2) Clutch drags whenever lever pulled in, doesn't change however long it's held in. 3) I've tried bleeding the clutch, but of there's air in there it must be very small and stuck somewhere in the system. Lever does feel meaty, so seems to be good pressure i.e. it doesn't feel like a soft brake lever. 4) Looking for an exploded diagram of clutch system to check where this bearing is at the moment. I peeled everything very carefully away, and didn't see anything. However it was dragging before, and the mods you put on here have made it more progressive, but not stopped or changed the drag. How much meat should be on the friction material? If the gap is too small between these pads will the clutch drag? The inner and outer pads were certainly significantly more owrn than the middle sets. I can check the plates on a glass surface for buckling. How far would the lever normally travel to disengage the clutch fully on a well set up bike?

Hi Folks, Looking for some guidance on my clutch (Beta Rev 3 250 cc 2005). Seems to drag even if I have the lever right out to give maximum leverage on the system. I've played about with the span and leverage point with no real success. I've done the clutch fix tagged on here and it's certainly made it smoother, but it still drags just enough when I'm in gear to have to hold it on the brake which causes issues on slower turns of course. Lever has plenty of feel, so I think it's working fine. I know it'll probably always drag slightly, but this is just enough to stall the engine even when the clutch is in. I'd prefer to have the lever closer to the bar for better control. What sort of travel is it possible to set it up for e.g. could it go from fully engaged to disengaged on approx 1 cm of lever travel at the end? Or what is possible with a perfect clutch set up? What is the wear limit for the clutch friction pads? Some looked like new, and some nearer both end of the shafts looked pretty worn - could this cause drag? Difficult to estimate, but would guess at around just under 1 mm on the friction material on the worst worn plates. Cheers, Paul

Cheers All, A few things for me to try then.

Cheers, So does your tick-over vary by itself, or are you adjusting according to circumstances?

Hi Folks, I have a 2005 Beta Rev 3 250 cc and am finding the tickover speed is varying up and down while out on the bike. It's enough to cause some issues - if it goes too slow I'm in danger of stalling, and if it's too fast then it'll push the front when trying the slow balance stuff. It's not consistently getting higher or lower as I run, but varying. I've cleaned out the carb several times, all jets out, cleaned and blasted with compressed air. The thermostat works fine, and fan comes on to regulate temperature OK. The throttle cable is not sticking, the slide is running freely. The carb float levers are parallel to the carb base. Not near to my bike now, but I assume it has an air screw on the carb - how many turns from fully in should this be, and would this cause erratic idle speed anyway? Any other ideas for things to check, easy, cheap obvious ones first please. Cheers, Paul

Hi, I have a Witter removable towbar on my A4 Avant, and there was an option for the removable towbar with the two hole flange - maybe you can get one for yours? The rack can bolt right onto it. Had good advice on here - go for a trailer if you can because you'll be knackered - I was!. You can find ones that are barely bigger than a bike and can be stood up on end.

Had my first ever run on Saturday, and great thanks to Derek Ramsey who was kind enough to take me out, show me a place to practice, and also teach me some basics. Much appreciated! Great fun, and a bl88dy good challenge, just what I was after. A few aches and pains after a couple of hours on the bike, but I was only doing some basic stuff. I'm used to a road bike, where I'm looking well ahead and using peripheral vision for road surface changes closer to me, etc, and also looking where I want to go which is the best advice I was ever given for the road. In general in Trials where should I look - at where I want to go, or in difficult situations where the front wheel is going? I know it's probably horses for courses depending on circumstances, but any advice gratefully received. Also, any tips for getting better traction on the rear tyre on slippy up slopes? Mainly for body weight position, etc as I think I'm OK in terms of what to do with clutch and throttle (even if I can't do what I want with either yet, at least I know what my hands should be doing so that I can train myself!). I used to do reasonably serious kart racing, and I'm glad to see the helpfulness of the folks is the same in both sports - I advertised for a flywheel weight this morning, and within a couple of hours another helpful chap was on the phone and arranging to send me his old one at minimal cost - thanks Jeremy!

Cheers folks, You've made up my mind to buy a towbar (managed to get one for

Hello All, I'm keen to start, and looking at various transport options. Being a tight Aberdonian I'd like to see if I can get a 250 Beta into the back of the car with some minor dismantling (this is probably the first bike I'll buy). Cost of towbar is around