gasgas

Lucky you, , but i feel this was nice clear water and not a mud hole kind of stream. What did you do with the airfilter?

Oke, now i got it. Blocky, we are talking about a pro from 2002. They come with only 3 friction plates. Sorry i was so stupid not to mention this info. I immediatley add pro 250 to the topic header, to avoid further miss communication. Can somebody pls give some comment on the 5w30 oil. Is this mineral available? I like to try it iso the dexron III atf. Do the new friction plates have no longer a problem with swelling due to synthetic oils?

Blocky, what do you mean? I am a dutchman, and probably reading this wrong. Do you mean you took thicker drive plates to compensate for the thinner clutch plates. Like GG suggesting we shld do? What i am intressted in is, what are the outside specifications that still work with this diafragm spring. It must be very little. Can 0.1mm less tension on the spring mean slipping? Btw i didn't mix old and new plates, just put three new ones in.

Last weekend i put in some new friction plates. The plates that came out had some lose friction material, so i decided to put in three new ones. Before reassemmbling i measured the old stack wich came to 9,75mm what is within specs. The new stack came at 9,65mm so i decided that was within specification too. I just test rode the bike and noticed clutch slipping when twisting the throttle in 5 and 6 gear. Clutch itself is a little notchy but i adress that to the new plates that need some aging. 2 things i am not sure off though. 1/what are the limits with the clutch measurements. Is 0,1mm making the clutch slip as there is not enough spring tention? 2/can the notchiness be adressed with a oil change. Maybe these new plates are better working with 5W30 oil, iso the atf dexron III? The new plates look different from the old one. So maybe they changed friction material from the 2002 plates to the new ones? I heard the old ones where kevlar, but what about the new one, as the documentation states 5W30 and now even 10W40 oil? By the way, is there a no synthetic oil that meets 5W30??

Heathy, have you solved it? Was it an airleak at the carb?

"carterside of the engine" is probably wrong english. The air/fuel mixture is flowing via the carter where the crank is located to the cilinderhead. So if a leak shld occur in the carter/ between the case joints pressure is lost. One of the reasons why you shld be carefull with splitting the cases. But to come back on the original question of you: what else shld i do? I can say, when you have found the rattle... and it is only worn rings leave the rest. You have no other problems then this rattle, correct? When it is a bigend problem, you have to split the cases, you can check all the inner stuff without a hassle.

Can you still see the crosshatch in the cilinder. If so, it will mean that the cilinder itself is fine. Normally the crosshatch first will disappear at the pressure side of the cilinder(this is the intake side) and when it is still there things look promising. When the cilinder/piston clearence is still within the specifications, rings cld be enough to think of. Loss of compression can also mean a leak in the carterside of engine. So there is loss of intake mixture. Pressure/leak down test wld give an answer there. About costs i don't know as i live in holland, but here replating comes at 150 euros. But offcourse then you also need a new piston and labour etc.

i have some more info about the nikasil cilinders. First you can not rebore a nikasil cilinder in the old fashion way like iron sleeved cilinders as the nikasil plating is only 100 micron thick, 0,1mm. You can however hone a nikasil cilinder in order to get it round again with a nice fresh crosshatch liner, in which case you buy an oversize piston in order of 0,01mm. The famous a, b, c, d, and perhaps e pistons. The difference in diameters is 0,05mm from the a till the e piston. Deep scratches in the nikasil ask for replating. They first chemically remove and bore out the old nikasil. Weld the scratch in the cilinder, bore it again, and finish with a new plating which is then rehoned to specs. ps: i think the Techno has a nikasil cilinder also, and that yr oversize piston is just a b or c type, specially made for nikasil cilinders. If so, i wld recommend to fresh up yr cilinder with a hone and measure the inside of the cilinder for roundness and get the right oversize if you can.

with nowadays synthetic 2-stroke oils it won't be a problem, but.. if yr doing roadwork, so yr revving the motor for longer periods i wld recommend going for a little more oil. A lot of riders are now using bio outboard motoroils, lubing 1%. I just lug the motor from one non-stop/trainings corner to the other. Using more oil only fouls my plug. Offcourse i cld go leaner on the jets to generate more engine heat but that makes the bike a little more jumpie. Anyway there are more ways to a best set up, it is rider dependable in my opinion.

First the timing. Advanced means more bottomend, less topend. Then the oil/fuel ratio: you can go leaner on the oil, try 80:1. I run mine at 100:1. Then the idle jet/needle and mixture screw. Turning it clockwise(in) leans out the mixture. Out means richer/more mixture. Needle start point is 2nd clip from the top notch. The idle jet cld be 33 till 36 good luck Ps: yes make sure your airfilter is clean and well oiled(not excessive). Cleaner is more air for the motor, better performance normally.

jtlaw, i recvd the black o-rings so no problem there. I also recvd a new o-ring more an oil seal which i cldnot use. I believe that it is for the type 2003 clutch cases. Today had a clubtrial and the the clutch worked oke. Not great but i blame the new clutchplates for that Had a different feel in the point of clutch engagement and that did not really help me since i am a freshman. Only ride trialbike for 3 months now.

Oke here it goes I am going back using brake fluids again dot 4. installed a new kit in the mastercilinder. Aswell put the new o-ring in the slavecilinder. The old one was swollen. But now i recvd a new cap for the mastercilinder and it says:use mineral oil only . I understand that the new 05's uses mineral oil in the clutch system afterall. Anyway bleeded the system and it is working alright. So i hope the best for it concerning the o-rings. thnks for the help and info.

HondaRS, pls elaborate on the one size smaller main and pilot. My feelings says bigger.

Still, the in what way better, is open for discussion. Is it stiffer, than the sachs or does it have seperate circuits rebound and comp? Because that wld make a big difference. And another question is: how do they service the sachs shock since i don't find a bleed hole?

Kevin, thnks nice info. I have a kit at order right now. Maybe somebody else can give some more accurate info about these o-rings and fluids? Cldn't find anything in the archive about it.

Day before yesterday i rode my crossbike with a BP7ES plug. When revving it just died completely Put in the recommended BP R 7ES and problem solved. The digital ignition didn't like the non-R plug and just cutt out of electricity. Something to do with the transitor picking up wrong signals..... With the resistor plug this is solved. So try revving yr trialsbike like i did my crossbike and maybe you will notice a difference

Thanks guys for the support. I now realise that the clutch system is filled with brake fluid. We are talking about a 2002 Pro. I assumed that the clutch system was filled with hydraulic fluid, and not brake fluid, like ktm has. I used very light mineral oil sae 2,5 to fill up the clutch system. I also have heard that fluids can get the rubbers to swell, or detoriate. So there is mine concern. Do i have to change back to brake fluid and change all the rubbers, O-rings?

Did something rather stupid. In stead of reading this forum i just assumed that the clutch system of my new gasgas was the same as a hydraulic system of the ktm. Since Ktm uses hydraulic oil in their system i did the same with the gasgas after that i cleaned it. It worked rather nicely but i now realise that some rubbers cld get detoriate because of this oil type. Anyone have any experience in this field of mishaps? Do i need new rubbers from master till slave?

Thanks Jtt, and before you ask, no i am not from canada, but amsterdam Maybe and other with a better memory can answer the primairy shaft question. Can not be that you are the only one who popped it apart only because you were curious. I just looked at the techdrawings and it seems that the prim shaft has 5 gears. The outgoing shaft has 6. On the shaft itself is always one gear machined so i forgot that one. But maybe someone still wants to common on that, as it is again very unconventional what they did.

to join this gear selection prob topic. Mine won't go easily from 5 to 4 and from 3 to 2. Is this the same cullprit? Shifting up no problem. And to ask further. Is it correct that on the primaire assy there are only 4 gears? That is what the blueprints techdrawings are saying, imho.