paxdad

Does anyone know if the spark plug wire on the Francolli CDI is replaceable? Does the CDI end of the wire screw in and out like the the cap end? I had to trim about a 1/2" off my wire at the cap end and am worried that I cut off too much which may make it difficult to use the new cap/ or interfere with the fuel tank when mounted. This is on my 04 125.

Did you check to see if timing is correct??

If you go to the NGK web site they have a guide on there to tell you what the number/ letters stand for. Using the guide you can then find the equivalent plug to a BP5ES which there might be a shorter version available. I am assuming that when you said short you were indicating the amount of room to get the cap off and plug out of the cylinder head.

I was watching one of the TTC training videos "hopping" and I picked up on something the guy stated on the video where he is teaching/ showing how to hop the front wheel. He clearly states "be sure to turn off the gas to prevent from filling the motor with fuel." Keep in mind he is hopping with the motor off. If I now recall back to the two events when my 125 has crapped out it was following activity where my son and I were practicing either with the motor off or on. So if my needle is worn and fuel is continously leaking by the seat this makes sense. This is my first trials bike so I am learning as I go.

After talking with Ryan Young he indicated that it is probably not a spark issue but carb related. I have a new float needle and seat on the way. One intresting thing Ryan indicated is that the spark is usually/ sometimes so weak it is hard to see on the Sherco. I will update once I have the new parts installed.

Thanks for the replies. I have spark but very weak. The cylinder is now fuel rich from the weak/ intermitent spark so starting is now out of the question. Definately not the kill switch though. I will call Ryan tomorrow.

Ok. I don't think it is the kill switch now as it test good for audible continuity when tested with a multi-meter. I unbolted the CDI and looked for any bad wires etc. and did not see any. The ground to the frame was clean as well. I changed the spark plug cap to a spare NGK resistor type that I had lying around and no difference. As you can imagine now that the spark is weak when it does start the piston top is fuel rich....... Is there way to check the CDI? Any other thoughts like stator going bad??? When you take the kill switch out of the picture does the ground to the frame need to be unplugged or just the spade connector that goes to the CDI? THis sucks as it was running perfect and the weather was near 65F here in Atlanta.

Bike was running great last night. Shut it off and when restarted it would not rev but just sputter. Pulled plug checked for spark. At times there is no spark and at other time there is spark. i removed the fuel tank and checked spark plug cap/ wire connection. I removed the cap from the wire and replaced to make sure connection was good which it was. It seems as if the kill switch is malfunctioning as after messing around with the wire I got it to run good again however after I started tucking all the wires back in the frame and started it again it was sputtering and would not rev. Hopefully my description is understandable??

Got it back together and it seems to be back to running well. Son rode it again this evening and he it ran fine as well. So good to go. Now I can get on with changing the water pump seals.

I just replaced the crank bearings on an 04 125 that I bought and it was seized after the previous owner sunk it in a creek. It was actually fairly easy and only required two special tools that I did not have (Sherco Flywheel/igniton puller and a blind bearing puller). I got the flywheel puller from RYP $19.00 and the bearing puller kit from Harbor Freight $39.00). I spent another $400 in parts which included a S3 head and insert, crank bearings (which are now sealed bearings), gaskets, top end rings, etc. I did not need a crank kit luckily.

I am reduced to the opinion as well that the floats were stuck open. When I got home to ride the bike after my son the fuel petcock was on as he forgot to turn it off. So if the floats were stuck after it fell over and he put it back on the stand with the petcock on it could fill with fuel. I ended up turning the bike upside down and kicking it over numerous times to completly drain the crank case and any voids in the ports etc.Once inverted quite a bit of fuel drained out of the intake, spark plug hole, and exhaust port. I disassembled the carb again and everything looked fine and when I inspected/ tested the float needle and seat they are sealing. So if the floats are stuck down and the fuel petcock is on and the bike is setting on the stand level would it not overlfow out of the side vents or would it overflow into the main jet and directly into to the engine? Or if the floats were stuck down and the bike were running could it continously suck enough fuel to keep running and fill the exhaust/ engine up with unspent fuel and then when my son turned it off that it continued to fill up? Sorry to belabor this issue. I will have it back together this evening and hopefully running good again.

Well as previously posted I cleaned out the carb on my 04 125 and had it idling smoothly and did a short ride with everything working just fine. Fast forward my son takes it out for a ride yesterday afternoon and drops the bike for a period of less than 15 seconds. He proceeds to pick it up give it a kick and off he goes for some backyard riding. He says the bike ran great and the idle issue fully resolved (see my previous thread). I get home and decide to start the bike to see how it was idling and it will not start. Check for spark and all is good but notice plug is wet with fuel. Kick it over numerous time to try and disperse the fuel build up etc. replace with new plug still will not start and again remove new plug test spark but still wet with fuel. Remove the head pipe to try and let fuel evaporate and head pipe is about half full of fuel!!! Muffler is also saturated with fuel. Drain transmission/ clutch oil and it is ok with no signs of fuel. I am perplexed! How could this much fuel have gotten into the exhaust and still run while son was riding it in the back yard??? If the oring on the choke jet is bad can that let a substantial amount of fuel by and over the piston into the cylinder? Could a stuck float cause this situation without the overflow showing signs of stuck floats?? Again the bike ran great after I cleaned the carb and rode it up the street the night before and according to my son it ran great while he rode it the next day. Thoughts/ comments are appreciated.

The wife and I left a trail of smagma across the granite topped center island in the kitchen!

Update: I pulled the carb back apart and cleaned everything out with contact cleaner and compressed air. She idles very well now! Thanks Copemech and Chris. I also took note of the following: Main= 122 Pilot= 36 Choke= 60 Atomizer= 270K Slide= 60 Needle= D36 Air Screw out 1.75 turns Idle out 2.5 turns Needle clip is 3rd from top Thanks again for the help. Now on to to replacing the water pump seals, chain slide, tensioner block.

Since you have had this bike should it idle fairly well without having to keep opening and closing the throttle? I pulled the carb apart during the rebuild and will do it again this weekend to see if there is some residual particles in there. By the way the head you sent me machined/cleaned up really well. I only had to take about 12 thousandts off but did not need to use as I corrected the issues with the S3 Star head. Thanks again.

I just finished with the top and bottom end rebuild on my 04 125 and the bike runs good (keep in mind I purchased it with a seized up motor so I can't comment on the before performance). The one issue that I am having is that it does not want to idle well. If you turn the idle screw in it speeds up the rpms but is very slow at coming down in rpms once the throttle is chopped/ closed. Any direction of where start? I assume it could be an air leak but have not started to track it down yet. There was a post in the Sherco forum a month ago that gave some tips for trouble shooting this symptom but I cannot find it. Thanks in advance.

Closing the thread out. Pulled everything back apart and installed M6x1.00 30mm flange bolts with the copper compressions washers and the internal fiber washers that replace the small orings. Problem solved no leaks. Next problem: coolant leaking out of weep hole so I guess I will replace the seal. Bike seems to run ok having an issue with the idle. Will start another thread for that.

I am replacing with flange bolts.

I purchased the high compression "red" insert. In your previous reply did you use both the fiber washers and the oring? Or did you replace the orings with the fiber washers? It seems that the leak is created with the coolant following the threads on the studs and then out the top of the nut/ stud. if I replace with the flange bolts I hope the seal will be created between the flange and the copper washer. HOPE!!!!

Update: Received the washers from RYP and installed them accordingly. Essentialy you have to omit the use of the 6 small orings and replace with a small fiber washer and copper washer between the head and nut. Head still leaks between the nut and cylinder stud. I am going to replace the studs/ nuts with a tapered bolt like the 2010 models. Hopefully this will stop the leak. I really want to run this head!!!!!

I have a 2004 Sherco 1.25. Can someone tell me which end of the clutch actuator rod goes to the clutch. The rod I have has two ends one end is machined down short and the other end is machined down long. In looking a the parts manual it shows the long end goes to the clutch side however the diagram does not suggest that there is a short end. I installed the rod as depicted in the manual and without running the bike yet (full motor rebuild) it seems to engage fine.

Just a quick update: Talked with RYP and they are sending some small washers to replace the individual head stud orings long with copper compression washers. Apparently the S3 Star Head is designed with late model bikes in mind however, they can be used on earlier models with the parts mentioned above. Appreciate the fact that RYP was quick to get back with me. Good customer service!!!

Not one to turn down a part that has potential!!! Send me a pm and lets see how easy I can make it on getting it to me.

Sirhc, That makes sense... The head studs are exposed to coolant. Do you know if you still need the 6 small stud orings in additon to the the copper washers? hopefuly RYP has the copper washers and M6 1.00 (8mm) head bolts to replace the studs and nuts as someone else suggested. Wish I would have known this when I ordered the head:(