honda_freak

Hi Dye Have you had any luck with your project - if not, try and follow this link. It may be that it can help you ? http://hrca.honda.com/publications/technical-downloads/2009_CRF450R_HRC_FI_Setting_Tool_Help_Guide_--_FINAL.pdf Regards Honda_freak

Hi Dye29 The appear that there are similar problems with the data connection in a Honda CRF450R. Try this. (1) Turn the Serial-USB I / F unit power switch off. (2) Disconnect the USB cable from the computer. (3) Reconnect the USB cable. (4) Turn the unit power switch on. The second time you connect, the error ska no longer occur. This is an article that I have seen on motocrossactionmag.com Greetings Honda_freak

Hey nerds I made a home-built diagnostic tester that fits a Honda Montesa 4RT. Basically it is very simple to make, but I have chosen to take the full step and fit it all in one box. As can be seen in the picture here. But for those who really want to make a simple and inexpensive diagnostic tests and only have to read diagnostic trouble codes - I think it can be made for under 10 pounds. Here is my approach. Remove the plug to the condenser and connect the plug to an external 12 volt battery Remove the plug to the fuel pump otherwise it will start. The next thing to do is to connect a diode to 12 volts on one side of the diode and the other side must be connected to the white / blue wire that goes to ECU pin number 8 - which is called FI VARN. In my diagnostic tests, I used a diode from the Guardian called "GWL20 12V Red Led". So simple it can be. To conclude, I will just say that if you start to make a tester is at your own risk. Do not start if you are not familiar with electrical systems and their operation. I say it again - it is at your own risk.

Hello Again Now I understand what you mean. When you measure the resistance between HT ignition cable and ground, there must be a very great resistance to infinite resistance. It goes without saying that there definitely should not be any transition to ground here. You should measure the resistance between HT ignition cable and the small end of the ignition coil wire with the color yellow / blue. Specification With plug cap: 17.3 to 22.8 kΩ (20

I assume you know how to use a multimeter. When you get the same results when measuring the secondary winding with your multimeter on a new coil - then I would seriously check my wires to the meter for any damages. Have you checked the primary winding of resistance! Remember just one thing when you use the meter to measure small resistances, such as. primary winding - to reset the wires from the meter or you will not get the right result. Good luck.

Throttle sensor is built into the bike's ECU and is therefore not available for any measurement of this. If you want to measure the TPS, you must remove the ecu from the throttle body and even then it is not advisable to separate the ECU, because tps sensor located on ECU's mother board. If you are sure that it is the tps sensor is faulty - it is my opinion the only way to solve your problem, is to initially borrow a known good ecu (throttlebody and ecu) from a friend. The outcome of this will determine future steps to be taken. Regards Honda Freak

I have no ideas how the cam chain has jumped the crankshaft sprocket. I will say that it is almost impossible, but it's the truth. It was only possible to detect after I had separated the engine. If I can find the picture I took of the cam chain, I will upload it. The pictures were sent to the importer of Honda Montesa in Denmark as evidence of what had happened to the engine when the bike was brand new. Honda importer in Denmark had not heard that there would be some problems regarding the cam chain. So Peter, I do not know if this helps you!

Hello Peter I'm almost sure I have the same problem as you. My story starts with a brand new Honda Montesa 4rt year 2008 which has been running less than 100 km. It is not my own Honda 4RT, but a companion. He had come running in second gear with a few revs and suddenly the engine stalled. I have the task of finding out what is wrong with the motorcycle. I soon found that there is a spark at the spark plug and while trying to start the bike with the kick starter, I can feel the kick starter can not be depressed anymore. It was strange and I started getting a strange feeling that something was very wrong here. Sometimes I can take the kick starter down without engine just gets stuck. The next step was to remove the valve cover and check the valve timing and, according to workshop manual crank must be on the mark and the "T" and the two marks on the cam wheel should be level and flush with the top edge of the cylinder head. Valve timing was correct and I was about to pull the hair of myself because I was sure that it was the piston and valves colliding. I took a visual check again and checked the valve chain tensioner and cam chain if they were sitting right in relation to each other and they did. The next thing I did was to remove the flywheel to get to the bottom Crankcase sprocket to exclude any errors regarding valve timing and here I saw the error. The cam chain had jumped from the crank sprocket and was now firmly on the crankshaft with the result that the valve timing had shifted. I then mounted cam chain correct on both crankshaft and camshaft wheel and the bike started after a few kicks on the kick starter and it did not appear that the engine had been damaged. So Peter_Tenerife - if I were you, I would double check valve timing again, just as a precaution. It was a long story - but true. I hope that you managed to find the error. Greetings Honda Freak Denmark

Hello It is an interesting discusssion, you have started here. If in seeking more information about how Honda Montesa 4RT ecu work, I highly recommend reading the following patent from Honda Motor Co. Ltd. 'Vehicle-mounted internal combustion engine controller with inclination sensor. " I hope it will shed some light on how Honda's ecu works. Follow this link. Honda Patent Best regards Honda Freak

I have not told the full story regarding this measurement. To make it more clear to you, it is actually a diode you measure through. A diode must block the flow in one direction and directing the flow in the other direction. What this means to you is when you measure with the red test lead from the meter on the black / white wire and the black test lead on earth, there must be a very high resistance. When you measure, with the red test lead from the meter on earth and one black test lead on the black / white wire from the module meter should show a very low resistance. I have no exact measurements from a Montesa 315R. What you have to be noticed is the big difference between the two measurements. I have previously used this method to determine the ignition module is bad, but not on a Honda Montesa 315R. I know it was a little technical, and hope you understand it.

Do you mean 556 ohms! It will not read zero ohms in this circuit further 10 million ohms or infinite resistance, which is displayed as "OL" on the meter. Yes - I think you do it right.

hello manxmann3 Sorry - I meant of course the black / white wire and yes you can measure the resistance to the green wire that is common ground on the motorcycle. The multimeter should display infinite resistance or at least several mega ohms

hello again As you write, you have disconnected the ignition switch and there is still no spark. But what about the wire that goes to the ignition module. If the blue / white wire that goes to the ignition module goes to ground before it gets ground through the stop switch, so what! Here is a simple test you can do with your multimeter to determine if your ignition module is blown. Disconnect the blue / white wire that goes to the stop switch. Measure the resistance between the blue / white wire (the one who goes to the ignition module) and the frame. There must, absolutely be no transition to the ground on this wire. If so, you have a burnt ignition module. There are other options, but try this first.

Firstly - have you tried disconnecting the wires to the stop switch and then tested whether it can start or not. If there is still no spark, or it will not start, try to measure the resistance of primary / secondary winding of ignition coil.

Hello dye29 Only to make it easier for you and me - have you checked whether there spark at the spark plug - if not, what have you checked. Things you can try before we conclude anything! Disconnect ignition stop switch in the circuit by disconnecting the two wires to the stop switch. Measure the resistance of primary and secondary windings of the ignition coil Measure the resistance of the pickup coil and the eventual transition to ground. Have you checked the common ground connection whether it is loose or rusty. Have you checked the resistance in the condenser, there should be a very high resistance - more Megaohms. Have you checked the resistance of Alternator Charging Coil between the yellow wires on the plug from the flywheel and the eventual transition to ground. Have you checked the resistance of the Injector. This is just a small sampling of things you can try before we decide whether a part is defective or not. These points I have mentioned - requires that you understand the use of a multimeter otherwise it makes no sense. I could go on to mention things you can check but it will just complicate things more than is necessary. I prefer to keep it to basics. Good luck with your troubleshooting! Greetings Honda Freak

I found a very interesting document - details of a patent from Honda Motor Corp.. describing how the tilt sensor works and how the engine control unit (ECU) decides when the motorcycle has been given the proper input from ambient sensors, ie information from throttle potentimeter, water temepratur and how many revolutions the engine is running. By looking at flow chart gives a better understanding of how the motorcycle is ready for ignition and fuel injection or put another way - how the engine management thinking! It is very dry reading, but very educational - you are now warned. Happy reading. Follow this link http://www.patsnap.com/patents/view/EP1619066A1.html

Hello I have some experience in troubleshooting Honda Montesa 4RT here in Denmark and since you have studied and tried a lot. Maybe I have the solution to your problem. A while ago I had a Honda Montesa 4RT (2005) for repair to me and this bike was very hard to start when it was cold. The solution to this problem was that it was the connector to the rectifier was rusty. I cleaned the plug and gave the following somewhat dielectri Grease and the bike started right away. It's worth a try good luck Greetings Honda Freak