curt531

I've left the tyre inflated to 30 psi,10 psi & 4 psi all over the space of a week & it does'nt loose a jot of air untill you ride it, even riding about outside my house will see it go down !

Already done all this as I said in my thread.

Very true, I went in for a Mich in the first place

thanks for the advise but deffo not the rim tape.

Yes it is, first thing I checked,

So here's the problem, bought a new IRC rear tyre from my local supplier ( want'ed a Michelin but let them talk me into the IRC ), fitted it in the same way I fit all my tyres ( must have fitted dozens over the years )left it inflated at 20psi over night & went & did a trial the following day. on the morning of the trial I let it down to 4psi as I normally do & set off. 20 minutes later it's flat, puncture I thought. blew it back up and could not see any signs of one so I carried on, 20 minutes later flat again. took the bike home to sort it out.Monday night took it off the rim, no signs of a puncture so i refitted & inflated it to 10 psi and left it at that, Thursday night went out on the bike fo a bit of practice, checked the pressure, still at 10 psi, set it to 4psi and off i went thinking that the problem was solved. 20 minutes later it's on the rim again stone flat ! now at this point I'm pretty P O ed.I called the suppleyer & told him the story to witch he suggested some things to try & did offer to look at it for me if I had further problems.so this is what I have done,tyre off. cleaned the rim with scotch bite so it is perfectly clean, ( the bike is a 2011 sherco with the normal spoked rim ) scotch brited the bead area on the tyre so that was perfectly clean also,fitted the tyre using no tyre soap and inflated to 30 psi over night, Went to a trial yesterday, let it down to 4psi again, off I went convinced it was sorted. not so,now I'm really not amused. The damn thing only goes down when ridden, Had it completely submerged in water & it has no leaks from the spokes or valve or rim, the tyre must be faulty,so now I will be on the phone to the supplier tomorrow to see what he has to say.

Hi, on the 2011 sherco the clutch cover is aluminium & can be welded, don't know about other years,think the timing cover is plastic,

Looks like the bash plate has been reshaped to give more clearance on the clutch cover, broken one of these from the bash plate hitting it on my 2011.

Thanks for the reply, first bike I have ever owned that does'nt have a level bolt or a sight glass, how odd

Can anybody give me any tips on checking the oil level on my 2011 sherco 290. I have changed the oil & put in 450ml as stated in the manual but my question is this, how can I check the level after a few rides to make sure there is still the right amount of oil ? it has no sight glass like my gasgas, if I remove the the filler bung there is no oil in site , even if I leen the bike over. so, how do you check it ?

Hi Adam, yes I will be at ESTC this Saturday for my first trial ( weather permitting ! ) the 3mm spacer I fitted gives you about 12 mm at the clutch cover witch should be fine I think.

Hi all, just thought I would share my experiance,just got a Sherco 290 2011 model, not new, but less than a year old & great condition. Before I rode it I fitted a slow action throttle just to calm things a little as my other bike was a GasGas 250,2005. First impressions are what a fantastic bike ! Very impressed with the power & delivery, very smooth with only a subtle increase to bottom end power from the GG,it turns & stops better than the GG but then I hav'nt rode a new one,very pleased with it. Now the bad bit, because the bash plate was very close to the clutch cover I have hit somthing and punched a hole in the cover don't recall any big impacts but there you go,just bad luck.The good news is that the covers actualy can be welded ( thats what I do for a living )so I repaired it, hammered the bash plate out witch then split!!! so I welded that as well. finally when I refitted the plate I did it with a 3mm spacer on the rear mount points to give some clearance on the clutch cover.Now hopfully it will work without any hick ups, like my GG does

I am in the process of refitting mine after it hit & split my cluth cover on my 2011 290 fist ride out it too will now be meeting a new friend called mr hammer !!

Thanks everyone for your input,plenty to think about ,might just try Putoline GP10 for starters & see what we get. Many thanks Paul.

I agree, however the bike has gone from slick shifts to feeling stiff with only changing the oil, only rode the bike out side my house at the moment as I have just got it, what product are other people using ?

Hi folks, just purchased a used sherco 290 2011. just performed major clean & grease of everything including changing the gear oil,I have used a 10w40 as recomended in the manuel but now when I shift from 1st to 2nd I get neutrel every time, did'nt do it before so it must be the oil. I have used Motul V300 which I have used on my mx & road bikes in the past,first time I have had this problem. any body have a similar experiance ?

Many thanks for your input folks,plenty to think about now.

Done the oil & seals but not the polishing, thanks for that I will give it a try.

Hi, yes it is a Pro,i assume the newer springs are a bit thinner ? do you recall what year spring you replaced it with ? cheers Paul.

Already done this,but thanks for the reply.

Hi everyone, does anybody have any advice to make the clutch lighter ( easier to pull in )on my TXT Pro 250. The bike is 2005 model , the clutch is working fine with no problems but it would be nice if it was a little lighter like the newer models, any ideas ?

Just to follow up my thread, used the bike at the weekend, let the tyre down to 4psi, used it all day with no leeks or issues stood over night & still no problems.......success !!! not such a big deal really if you do the job right

Your right, I forot to mention I did remove the valve inner while inflating,you can't get the air in fast enough witch is what you need with tubeless tyres. The trick with the strap is once the tyre seals & starts to in flate let it back down & remove the strap it should just inflate ok once the strap is removed.

well my first attempt at changing a broken valve in my rear wheel on my GG TXT PRO 250 went very well ! Once the tyre was off it was clear that the previouse owner had issues with air leaking from just about everywhere judging by how much sikoflex & silicone was spread all round the rim! I cleaned the rim completly with cellulose thinners until it was like new clean, inside & outside all round the spokes to get rid of globs of silicone around them. Next was a new rim rubber with built in valve from BVM in stroud ( where i got the bike from ) then i watched the American dude on youtube telling you how you should fit the new rim tape with some washing up liquid & water, next i cleaned the tyre bead with brake cleaner to make sure all the contact points were completly grease free, again used the water & wash liquid to lube the tyre before fitting it back on the rim.Inflating the tyre was the tricky bit ! ended up using a tie down strap round the circumference of the tyre to squeese the bead to seal, once we got some air in it took about 50 psi to get it on the rim & seated then let it down to 30 psi. Checked with soapy water & NO LEAKS Once it's let down to running pressure we will see if it was completly succesfull but all the signs are good ! I'll keep ypu posted.