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suzuki250

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Posts posted by suzuki250
 
 
  1. Its cost £1000 + many hours of work to build a bike that’s not really suitable for modern or classic trials with a Chinese engine!

    Yet it’s possible to purchase a good usable twinshock for around £800 - £1000 that can be used at twinshock & modern trials

    So what’s the point of the project, because it’s not really a cheap way into classic trials?

    • Like 2
  2. It's not my bike it belongs to one of our members Jim Wicksteed. I was just trying to illustrate that you dont have to build them all minimalist and obviously modern. there is another way that is more in the spirit but i dont think thats what the builders of these bikes really want no matter ho much they keep saying it's only about using those Gas Gas forks that just happen to be lying in the corner of the garage along with the tubless rims etc etc. We all know why Jons bike "evolved" to be the way it is and thats about building the most competitive bike possible and to hell with the spirit of fair competition. There is another way to build a cheap pit bike conversion but this Ken Ives replica is the only one that i have seen that i feel is not trying to gain an unfair advantage unlike the others. But thats just IMHO

    Sorry, I didn’t mean that one, I was referring to the one at the top of the thread. (Charlie’s)?

    I quite like the one in the picture you posted, it looks more period.

  3. Best to do a search on the forum, its a can of worms that one!

    I use 50:1 and I wouldn't go any leaner that! :thumbup:

    But the less oil you use the more manly you become, some riders don’t even use oil, just a splash of Old Spice in the tank!?!?!

  4. I had exactly the same problem with some Suzuki beamish forks, they are also just under 35mm

    I now use some steel shim, it works a treat (it’s a pain fitting it in though!)

    If the forks are under 35mm and you have them re-chromed to 35mm you would also need to modifiy the bushes in the legs as they wouldn’t fit!

  5. i took my big lump off a bultaco all the way to Cornwall and back on a rack on my peugeot 406 with out any trouble police did see it a few times never bothered me. just make sure the bike is strap on proper. and you will be ok the front wheel sticks out more so just keep an eye on it when driver near parked cars and narrow lanes 1 eye on the road and 1 eye on the bike ah :D

    Same here, never had a problem. even with heavy classic MX bikes

  6. That’s progress for you, even pre65 bike are evolving!

    Its nice to look back with rose coloured glasses, but lets face it, they were cr@p forks!

    How far do you take the pre65 rules, Shocks, tyres, levers, handlebars ect……

    I know one rider who is using modern titanium fiddle hips fitted in his old legs!

    • Like 2
  7. You could perhaps put some (shock, horror) BSA forks on it! I've got them on mine (they must be good, they've been on there since 1962) and they are great.

    Rear shocks wise, the world is your oyster. From about £60 for some really basic cheap ones up to a few hundred for fully adjustable alloy ones. Length is another issue, mine are 340mm on a standard C15T.

    That’s very true, but I 've welded some flat bars to mine & the kids use them as pogo sticks :banana:

    • Like 1
  8. #11

    Regarding duraluminium. The firm I used to work for used to buy quite a bit of thick dural for machine parts and it got harder the longer we kept it. First few days it was soft, then it became quite a bit harder to machine than mild steel. Eventually 4mm plate became so hard / brittle it could not be bent without cracking and was quite hard to machine with HSS tooling.

    I know when I got some 1/4 inch off the same supplier for a Bulto sump guard conversion their instructions were to press brake it as soon as I got it.

    For trials use Dural corrosion never seemed to be a problem although definitely some of the aluminium "went" as it often took on a hint of copper colour yet it only contained about 4% copper.

    7075 does seem to be supplied T6 which is OK to machine with insert tooling but I suspect it would crack if you tried to bend it to make a sump guard without annealing it first.

    strange as we used a nice little oven that printed out graphs (e.g 450c then 24hours at 120c) It was also very handy for cooking pukka pies!

    Al-Cu hard to machine with HSS! (we mainly use HSS on our VMC)

    2 days to go hard, did you buy your metal straight from the mills?

    We buy from aalco & various other suppliers and they hold stock for months!

    I think you are spending too much time on google!

  9. I’ve said this before but, every rider should observe (or help) a certain number of trials to obtain a licence

    I observed the same amount that I entered last year!

  10. Hi steve

    This one is scorpa 2004 model similar

    to that .. yes correct it have disk brake .

    What are other options i have for forks..

    I thinking for going to bike breaker ..

    to be honest im bit lost ..

    No bigger than 35mm in diameter, early Spanish forks and wheels are a popular choice

    You will never get the approval of the classic brigade, but they seem to have a lot of time to worry about trivial matters (while they are having some fiddle forks made) :banana2:

  11. Duraluminium seems to be getting very hard to get hold of in UK.

    Duralumin is no longer available as its now 2000 Series al-cu alloys (and they corrode quickly un-treated)

    7075 needs to be heated to 450c and then age hardened at 120c for 24h+ or it will stay soft

    But if he buys one stated as T6 then its already been done, so no point worrying :stoned:

 
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