You can use 10/40w light gear oil but not synthetic.
The following is cut + pasted from the GG tech bulletin; Not from the manual but bear in mind it is just recommendation !
Transmission oil:
Recommend type: ATF DEXRON III
Alternatives:
NOTE: GASGAS Spain recommends only Dexron III automatic transmission oil at this time.
Oil type warning:
DO NOT USE #12378508 GM auto-trac II (blue) oil
Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are “stickier” and this adhesion tendency, when applied to the areas between the clutch plates contribute to excessive clutch drag. Some brands of synthetic oil will chemically react when mixed with water, (from creeks, rain, or waterpump seal leakage). This reaction alters the pH factor of the oil. This acidic condition accelerates corrosion of steel engine parts, and loosens the bond of the clutch fiber plate material. Please do not second-guess this information. We have twelve years of experience with the Herbringer/Adige brand clutch plate materials, and we are in direct contact with the technical department at GASGAS Spain.
Maybe if all clubs run a novice, dead easy route it would attract more riders?
I offered to lend my friend a bike to have a go (he as been dying to have a go for a while), but he declined when he watched a trial said it looked way to hard (that was at shatterford)
Just tried fitting a set of beamish forks I have lying around on my BSA, but the fork tubes seem to be smaller than 35mm this is stopping me clamping them on the bsa.
I’ve measured them and they are 34.87mm which seems to be closer to 1 3/8” did the beamish have odd sized forks?
Bad Engineering practice extending the arm like that, now you have two welds to break?
Do your homework on the hubs , it is far cheaper to buy some than to make your own. And you know the ones that are already tested work, been there as they say, Give Alan a ring.
Regards Charlie.
I would disagree on the welding, I have inserted a bush into the swing-arm (see pic) even if they were butt welded I would be surprised if it did fail as most of the stress is transmitted though the shocks the swing arm acts more like a control arm than on a modern mono-shock bike (but I’m not the best welder!)
I have worked many years as an Automotive prototype engineer / quality engineer, after serving a technical engineering apprenticeship so I would hope my work would be satisfactory
But I would agree its not worth the time making parts, if you don’t have a CNC machine. But I’m in the process of buying one
I’m sure you would agree most of the fun is making your own parts, I find it very satisfying
Bantam / Cub Swing-Arm Length
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
The OD is 28.72mm
The ID is 23.5 to 23.79mm (slightly oval) I would guess the original tube ID was 15/16”??
It also has a ridge of braze where the tube is seem-welded
Hope this helps