Can anyone tell me if these are the same, I thought the way the brake plates were held in place was different for a start and I would have thought some dimensions between the two would differ also. Thanks.
Reimar Buerkmayer in Germany has the opaque/translucent guards you seek, I bought a set from him about 14 months ago, he still has them listed on his website, refer attached and scroll to end of Ossa parts.
Noticed that a lot of the screws used a star lock washer that dug into the aluminum, were those stock? not thrilled at the prospect of using those. On a side note, by the looks of the skid plate (bash plate for you UK guys) this bike was rode hard and put away wet! my thinking it may have been an ex pro bike? will have to see if I can dig up some history some day. So go for a new bash plate with wings to protect the cases? Hmmm
The main reason for switching the brake over is the sad condition of the brake pedal, I can barely hit it due to being so tucked in, are there alternatives?
Grib racing from Spain is one alternative, not cheap but a very nice bit of kit.
Left leg is wrong, right leg looks correct. Pull dust cover off and measure from top of alloy fork tube down to mudguard mounts, should be 60 mm. Common problem with left fork tube is that a previous owner has ridden the bike without the front brake stay being fully tensioned/tight resulting in it breaking away. They're as rare as hens teeth, MH part # M0CM1-35017H, Cota 349/4 part # IZQ.5139.017, Cota 350 part # IZQ.5139.01702. If you find any, please let me know, but nobody else .
MH 349 had a red frame, Cota 349/4 and 350 had silverish/greyish frames.
Yes, I see your problem, those S3 adjustable clamps I suggested are of no use.
If your bars are Reikon "9003" then they have a height of 110mm, Renthal 673 are 100mm, Renthal 829 are 115mm but there's so much more to how they get to that end height, finding the right handlebar for oneself can be a costly exercise.
Jitsie have a few options in their fatbar range if that's of any help...........
Hey Mat, you can make your own with some flatbar and longer bolts. Or, apico and CSP make the same thing. I put a set of S3 risers on my 290 and they can also move the bars slightly forwards or backwards. I think it brought the rise up to 1-1.5” if I recall correctly. You don’t need to replace your bars unless you absolutely want to (I didn’t). I can definitely recommend the s3 risers from personal experience:
hope it helps! I can’t seem to find any pictures of when I had them mounted on my bike, sorry
I'm a fan of those S3 bar clamps due to the 13 mm rise and fore and aft adjustability, they worked a treat for me on my GG, enabling me to keep the std Renthal fat bar which I like. Did not like their "Buffalo Bars" however, I tried these before discovering their bar clamps.
You ask a lot, and I know that is what Maxton requires but I doubt you'll get all those dimensions and weights until you do it yourself on your own bike when it arrives.
Even if someone did post up the info your after, would you really want to rely on that for being accurate when you are going to pay approx $1000 NZ for Maxtons delivered to your door, I wouldn't.
There's not a lot out there that I'm aware of, Robert Cochrane in New Zealand has some bits, his site as follows........... https://kawasakikt.tripod.com/FREDKT.html
Google searches of "KT parts" will often take you to someone on ebay that has bits for sale, if you know the Kawasaki part # of what it is you want, type that into google and see what comes up.
These parts diagrams might be helpful when trawling the net as it gives the part numbers, dimensions and number required.
Note also that only bolt # 33 appears to be specific to the 348/349 as it starts with 51. Bolt # 32 would appear to be a carry over from the 247 as it starts with 21, bolt # 31 starting with 73 is from the Cappra I think etc,etc.
Here's bolt # 34 on cyclesavant's ebay site, $7.50 is a bit steep, but he is open to offers.
If you left click on the brochure pic it should enlarge enough so you can see the bracket on the left side of the swing arm on that shot of the plastic bash plate.
Otherwise here's a pic of the mk 2 side stand bracket, it looks the same as the mk 1 brochure.
PS: Search the Ossa forum here regarding rear brake cable arrangement, it's another of those odd things that Ossa did, like 12mm axles. I'm sure I read someone asking a similar question in the last year or two and the responses and photos made it clear. Venhill make and sell the rear brake cable.
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Edited by fourex Round and flat frame hoops.
On 12/29/2020 at 10:15 PM, subheatadey said:
Hi there,
New member here, I've just bought a project bike it is a Ossa Mick Andrews replica. I think it is a Mk 1, strangely it hasn't a side stand lug mount so I assume it never came with a side stand mount? It needs a bit of work but the bones are there, no spark so today is pulling the very stuck stator and hope it is just cut wires at the bottom, definate ly will be running the wires out of the front. Anybody here who knows about Ossa as I no nothing at all
Not an expert on Ossa by any means but I do have a mk 2 and have gathered some info and pics over the years, your bike looks like a good starting point for a resto. Your bike certainly looks like a MK1 due to flanged Amal carb and the solid fork bottoms. Have a look at the attached brochure shot that shows a side stand for MK1. I think your round rear frame hoop over the guard might be bent down, but could be just the pic angle or those universal alloy guards. Attached is some pics of my rear frame hoop, you got to remember that the seat is attached by two bolts that go through the rear guard and the flat frame hoop. Hope this is helpful.
Left Trials maybe early '76 to dabble in MX. Maybe back to Trials '81 or '82 through to '95 or '96. then back again 2014. Something like that as I recall.
Those old photos are fantastic fourex. It's exactly how I remember trials from the time and one of the locations looks quite familiar.
That kid in the last photo sitting backwards talking to you looks familiar.
Also no wonder so many old bikes have broken stand mounts. Look at you two sitting on the bikes on their stands. One friend of mine was a bit small for his TY250 in 1974 and had to have it on the stand to be able to start it. Luckily for him the stand was on the left on the A model.
Your TY175B looks a lot like mine did, even where the top shockie mount was moved to and the black fork boots. Were they konis too?
Good times indeed David, those Montesa pics are from Biddaddaba late March or early April 1974, you might be amongst that group at riders briefing?
The bloke sitting backwards on the Sherpa is Rod Maclean, I think that was a Logan River Trial possibly at Mt Cotton ?
Can't remember what shocks I had on the TY, but I do remember the laid down mod was done at the Motorcycle/Mower shop on Logan Rd Mt Gravatt by their mechanic who I believe was Steve Hope but I didn't know that at the time. He did a good job by also welding in gussets to prevent the rear downtubes from bending, thanks Steve.
I never experienced that problem with it jumping out of 2nd gear, probably because I couldn't wind it up to the point of needing 2nd plus I was only 12. Can't help myself here,I'm sorry, found some pics of a young fourex riding his new 123 around the back yard the day it arrived plus some pics from my 1st Trial on the same bike. I think I looked p****d off because I didn't like having photos taken as a kid, I don't think I'd realised at that time what a dud of a bike I had. But it's some pics of a brand new Cota 123. See smiley face once on a TY 175.
The 1st Cota 123 was the biggest heap of ***** ever made, I've been scarred for life after my Dad bought me one at 12 yrs of age (brand new early '70s), even at this young age I knew there was something wrong with this bike, it was so gutless. Thank god he bought me a TY 175 when they were released, but I've still got the Mental Scars of that Cota 123. Beautiful looking bike for a collection not something to ride.
PS: Not to mention that 20/17" wheel combo, welded clutch and front brake lever mounts to the bars,no chain tensioner and not enough power to pull the skin off a rice pudding. Awful, awful.
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Fantic 240 and 300 swing arms.
in Fantic
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All good, All sorted. Thanks.