Please tell me if I'm a duckhead or missing something here, but why couldn't you put the same oil in the clutch and gearbox like we put in our modern bikes that serves both, something like Putoline GP 10 or Motul Transoil as an example. Just asking because I'm both confused and curious. Cheers.
I have a computer illiterate friend over here in Australia restoring a T350 Piuma and he needs a white tank, if anyone has one to sell, please let me know. Sorry Tom !
Exactly right on the brake shoes I bought,. Feetupfun mentioned drilling the axle hole larger and allowing the brake plate to self center. I have some machines so Ill bore a hole in piece of plate that matches the drum size, drop the backing plate in with shoes, and locate the hole center in the backing plate. If the shoes fit the bore diameter I should be able to locate center and solve the problem. Perhaps.
I can get a smaller front gear from my local dealers stock on short order, haven't heard if it's 10 or 11T. I remember my Montesa was geared to ride in 2/3 most of the time and first seemed crazy low. That suites me fine and may be a winter upgrade to go 10/44.
I went to remove the drain plug and although it was snug it didn't retract when unscrewed. I applied a side load while turning the wrench and the drain plug came out with some bits of aluminum and the last remains of a couple threads. If the motor was apart or coming apart soon I would weld up the hole but just going to tap to next size up at this point in time.
Rather than tap up to the next size, wouldn't a helicoil of the the same size and thread pitch be a better option. I also like the look of the mudguards, where did you get them from ?
hi,thanks for the replys.that one on ebay is the same one as i had from Motoclassic in uk. if i hold it up to the forks and line the holes up the brake pivot is in the way.If it was a
bit shorter I think it would work.I could do with knowing what the hole to hole gap should be.
the part number is 7355.48 on one manual Ive discovered
Part numbers starting with '73' are Cappra VR/VB I'm led to believe.
thanks guys !! am i right in assuming then that the 240 and 200 are smaller chassis than the 300 ? so as metise says the best option is a 240 chassis with a 300 ( 250 cc ) engine .
a friend has a reed valve water cooled (converted to air cooled) engine in a 300 chassis , it seems rather big to me (chassis wise) seems to ride ok round the garden but hasn't been tried in anger
decisions,decisions
andy
I ride a 300 and love it, they are bulbous with the original tank and clip on side panels but that is easily remedied with an aftermarket tank and side panels from someone like Delay in Spain (which more replicate the slender 240), which has to be a much cheaper option than building a 340 as they call them.
The only other thing I don't like with the 300 over the 240 is the top shock mounts rubbing inside of legs because they are further forward, but you soon adapt.
Things I do like with 300 over 240 is a little more frame bracing to solve any issues with bending frames, integral alloy bash plate, improved forks and front brake and 249cc non reed motor which runs very nicely with original 26mm Dellorto.
I like the 300, I'm curious to hear why others don't rate it.
I'd leave the tank alone, if anything I'd weld another metal pad on top of those existing ones. See the pics on my bent frame, once straightened the forks missed the tank by 3 or 4mm.
The stops on MH 349, Cota 349/4, Cota 350 are simply extra metal wrapped around and welded to the down tubes, refer photo.
The forks only miss the plastic tank by a few millimeters when all is good.
If your frame does in fact have these extra welded gussets on the down tubes, then I would be looking at other factors like is the plastic tank/seat unit mounted correctly, frame not bent (check rectangular main frame spar under tank and twin downtubes for straightness), and finally have you got the correct triples fitted (170mm between fork centres).
I bought a 349/4 several years ago that had a bent frame and suffered the same problem with forks whacking tank.
Hello people, I'm trying to find some suitable plastic guards for a couple of my projects namely a MAR and Cota 247, I'm aware of Goneli and Stilmotor but the Goneli requires bolting a second guard to it for the required length and the Stilmotor is longer but doesn't have the desired arch.
I know that Inmotion had some rear translucent Goneli style longer guards a few months ago that were about 680mm end to end and about 930mm around the arch and some matching translucent front guards but they are sold out and they aren't planning on getting any more made.
Those Inmotion guards would have been perfect for me but I couldn't afford them at the time and now that I can they are no longer available
So, long story short, does anybody know of other options or do you maybe have a set of those Inmotion guards that you would sell ? I'm in Australia.
I am trying to compare the needle in the carb to replacements. The marking on the needle is NAPH. Would anyone know what size this is, as the new needles have different codes and there does not appear to be a cross over chart. Many thanks.
Just stumbled across this old post, it is a Kawasaki KX85/100 needle as others have suggested, made by Keihin to Kawasaki specs I'd assume. Some info attached in case you're still searching.
Wow that explains alot. Thank you. That info matches the pictures I've seen. I'm sorry to hear of clutch trouble. I just recently purchased a used clutch assembly from a 89 tr. The plates are worn but the rest is in beautiful shape. I don't need it for mine but at $55 I couldn't let it go by. In case of breakage. Would it help you? I really don't think I'll ever use it. Let me know. And thanks for the information. It's going to be a good help. Someone has already worked it over. Fork lowers and tail frame are painted red. That has been confusing me.
Thanks Donniejn, but that was over 30 years ago and the bike is long since gone.
Hello everyone. I'm 62 and just purchased my first trial's bike. I've been informed that there are three types produced in 1988. Again it's a Beta tr34 260. I found numbers stamped on the left side behind the yoke. Beta B 3 This winter I plan a rebuild. Minor one. She starts cold on second kick. Hot on the first. If I can find parts I believe I need a crank seal ( smoker ) and a top end. However far I get I would like it to be correct. Clear coat or paint? Just to mention one of a hundred questions I have. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Donnie
I don't think three types of TR 34 in 1988, maybe three types between '87 and '89. The way I remember the transition is based on my recollection from the eighties when I bought a brand new '87 TR34 from Florence at great expense because we had no importer at the time in Australia.
The '87 TR34 tank was White/Blue/Red from top to bottom and had a MX looking muffler and the worst clutch imaginable that dragged.(mine)
1988 TR34 Replica, Blue/White/Red tank graphics from top to down, muffler that hugged rear sub frame and apparently improved clutch , never rode one.
1989 TR34 Stripey/Zebra, colours as above, muffler hugging the frame, much better clutch than my '87, had a importer now to Oz so got to ride a few, nice bike.
Not sure what to do about shocks...they came apart easy enough..but can't find seals anywhere and they were shot..thought about trying the OZO pro shocks anyone tried those?
Finding good modern day shocks to fit older Twin Shocks is always a problem due to chain and chain guard rubbing issues because they weren't upside down back then, I believe the OZO shock can be run either way but you would still need to check that the clearance is adequate, InMotion who sells these in the UK would set you straight I believe.
If it's the black framed '74 with underslung clutch lever, it's more likely to be 48T. I think the '75 Cota 247 'Ulf Karlson Replica' and subsequent 247's had very different final drive ratios, more closely related to the 348.
Have a look on the Italjet page for a jetting guide on there. I think they would be much the same as a Sherpa T. They had Dellortos on them from new.
Good thinking Graham, the Italjet T250 specs would be a very good starting point. Refer attached for Italjet specs, disregard the T250 being a four cylinder.
Hmmmm porky according to the specs. I reckon this calls for an official weigh-off of TL320 vs Jumbo
Can't help with that one, got too many bits removed from mine at the moment but real world results would be interesting to see.
Seems the Jumbo was a low slung "heifer", but I seem to remember Schreiber and Michaud winning a World round each on one, must have been the power that helped them 'Launch' over the obstacles.
Glad SWM chose 'Jumbo' over 'Cow', kudos to their advertising department.
As above, would like a pic or two if possible on how this plate should look with regard to things like size of the digits and is Engine 348.5cc or 348.5 cm\3, also is weight 89kg or 89KG,just stuff like that.
Reason I ask is that my Jumbo that I bought a few years ago is missing the plate on the headstock and I have recently purchased a blank plate from Martin in the UK, just want to populate this plate as accurately as possible when I eventually blast and repaint the frame (Suburu WRX Blue from years ago is close I believe). If you can help with a pic just tape over your frame/engine numbers if you don't want to divulge. Thanks.
Pic of my headstock with rivets only and blank plate that I want to stamp are attached.
Dickhead me, clearly the plate already stipulates cm3 and Kg. Type is TL 350 or 350 TL maybe with a hyphen ? Grahams pics will help, cheers.
andy
That's how they spell beer in most parts of the World, but Queenslander's are different than most people 
Montesa 349
in Montesa
Posted
Please tell me if I'm a duckhead or missing something here, but why couldn't you put the same oil in the clutch and gearbox like we put in our modern bikes that serves both, something like Putoline GP 10 or Motul Transoil as an example. Just asking because I'm both confused and curious. Cheers.