I did a comparison of Italjet Green verse the Holden Panama Green on a NOS engine bracket I have, the Panama Green is a rattle can mixed up by Super Cheap auto about a year ago.
Is the jumbo shaft the same as earlier 240 / 280's ? Never tried it myself, but the person who mentioned it works extensively on tl's and tx300's.
Good point b40rt, I don't know that much about these Rotax engines, the 350 TL Jumbo motor is different to the 240/280/320 TL's due to the different induction obviously but I don't know how much they vary elsewhere.
So, this starts a hi-jack of David Skinner's post/thread.
Does anyone know of a replacement gear lever for a Jumbo with a swivel tip preferably in alloy also, and does anyone know of a suitable rear brake pedal replacement, metal is ok as I could graft/weld one of those swivel tips on to it. Cheers.
I just tried my Fantic 300 alloy gear lever with a folding tip on my Jumbo and unfortunately it doesn't fit, pity because the bend and length look spot on for a SWM. The Jumbo shaft is 13.5 mm and looks to have a finer spline than the Fantic, also the Fantic shaft measured closer to 13 mm.
I'm pretty sure Fantic 240 and 300 gear levers are the same, but I could be wrong ?
Hi Mark. Over here in Australia Panama Green from the Holden colours is a very close match. I think it was from the HQs which came out in around 1973/74. Graham.
That's it Graham, Panama Green did the job beautifully for any touch ups back in the day, you couldn't tell the difference.
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Edited by fourex Additional info about 330.
On 25/08/2018 at 5:23 PM, woody said:
Not sure you can date a 349 from the frame number as I don't think it is recorded anywhere. There were three models types of 349 and all start 51. You need a picture really
I think maybe 4 x Cota 349 models, not sure of the early years but the last is known as 349/4, aka Cota 350 and MH 349 which were all '83/'84 models I believe. The last big bore twin shock Cota was the 330(61M) in 1985.
Thanks, keep the opinions flowing please. I only mentioned the T260-C because that is the shock they recommended from my brief email enquiry with them regarding a Fantic 300. I now realise that they build to spec based around this shock.
So is the HFS kit worthwhile , ? I asked about them a few years ago and didn't hear anything positive ...
I think so, I've just riden a 2 day event over here in Australia on what we refer to as 'C' grade lines and I quite liked the fork action, much better than anything previously and I'm happy enough to leave it alone now, running 7.5wt at 175cc per leg (basically just enough to cover bottom of springs), about 2.75 bar per leg, combination of 1x hard spring and 1x medium spring for 90 kg me.
The only issue I encountered was the supplied 50mm alloy spacer was far too long to achieve the desired 28mm between top of fork tube and underside of fork cap, I solved this by re-using the adjustable magicals pre-load adjuster that I was pulling out.
Some pics attached that may explain what I'm trying to say.
I recently bought a set of magicals springs for TY250 forks. They are dual rate of a similar design to the standard TY250 springs. On the magicals, the first rate is a bit stiffer than standard springs and the second rate comes in earlier in the stroke than the second rate on the standard springs. I found the magicals springs made otherwise standard TY250 and KT250 forks feel even more under-damped. Very good in combination with Majesty damper rods though which provide more damping.
Rod after reading your last post I was wondering did you check how good was the piston/bore sealing in your Marzocchi forks. Yours may have a ring for all I know - I haven't worked on Marzocchis from a 240 Fantic, but Betors from the same era have sealing rings on the damper rod pistons.
I'll be very interested in what you find with the HFS setup.
I would have fitted the HFS kit weekend just gone if not for other distractions, you can take it for a ride yourself on 18/19 August if your coming down. Cheers.
I don't know what Greg Harding did to his Fantic 240 forks but that is what I'm comparing mine to.
I spoke to Greg a couple of weeks ago, sounds like all std. I never rode my Fantic in the bush when it 1st arrived, I just went straight into re-furb (not restoration) mode after riding it around my suburban yard and local park, so it was basically replace everything that was possibly 1984 like bearings, bushes, cables, seals, brake shoes, carby jetting and front fork springs etc, the motor remained intact because it still sounds so good. I think the magicals springs are just too firm and springy for me regardless of pre-load adjustment and the different oils I've tried. This gold valve thing is getting too complicated for a simpleton like me especially when they don't make anything specific for a 35mm Marzocchi Trials fork, so I've splurged out on the HFS air/spring conversion which I will fit within the next couple of weeks and see where that takes me. Cheers.
I have read a lot of posts saying the old gasser kickstarts fit but can’t find a model and year mentioned.
Hi Mark, I tried some years ago to determine the same but never got a resolve and the Italjet has taken a back seat since anyway. I think I also asked Paul at the Hell Team at the time, but being unfamiliar with the Italjet, he was not sure back then but he might know now?
Try a message to Graham, aka "bullylover", I think he bought one years ago from Steve Goode in the UK who doesn't seem to list them anymore, even when he did the GG part # or year/model seemed to be a closely guarded secret. Let me know how you get on, please.
It looks like a Sammy Miller Products muffler from years ago, I don't know if they were good, bad or indifferent.
PS: Rusty Nuts, I get the impression you only want to hear what you "want to hear". Most of the info provided so far, you could have found yourself ! Please don't be condescending to people trying to assist you.
I have aquired a 280 Climber which is now running but quite unstable at tick over and just above.
I have found that the PHBH26CS carb which is the air screw version (not the petrol adjustment screw type) seems to be missing one of the jets.
The Pilot jet is I think made up of 2 jets one is deep down and a sort of atomizing jet or idle imulsion tube as its´s listed (which is marked with 68) and there should be an idle jet "deep" sitting in front of this but it´s missing.
Can anyone help with the size needed ?
Didn't the climber have the PHBH 26 BS (fuel screw) as standard ? The PHBH 26 CS (air screw) was a GG carb according to Eurocarb website, either way the below link gives a guide to the CS carb for the '96/'97 GasGas. It gives you somewhere to start.
Model 198(250) and Model 199(325) ran from approx 5/77 to 9/78 according to the literature I have, your engine may well be a polished 198 rather than black, but the frame and other components are earlier, any numbers on the head stock?
He acquired an enormous amount of Montesa NOS some years ago, can't see what you need on his site at the moment but that doesn't mean he doesn't have it, I have found him very reliable to deal with.
Below is the earliest exploded view of a Cota 247 crankshaft that I can find, I think this covers your model, you could use these part numbers when corresponding with Dave or anyone else. Quality of pic is ordinary. Best of luck.
That's interesting, because I'm old school I've always run 50 or 60:1 believing that's richer, which it is for the engine but not in carburation terms.. I need to try 80:1 as my next step. I think I know what this means, correct me if I'm wrong please. As an example, 50:1 is actually more lean than 80:1 in carburetion terms due to having less fuel but is richer in the sense of having more oil for the engine, is that right ? Running a fuel/oil mixture of 100:1 just sounds scary to an older bloke like me but it does make some sense when you think about it.
PS: We don't use ethanol fuels in our bikes here in Australia, unleaded 95 and 98 is readily available. My elevation above sea level is only a few hundred metres at worst.
Thanks, you're right, exactly the same as my GG original std jetting apart from a 122 MJ. I need to check my float height again perhaps. I only ask because my GG seems a little lean coming onto the needle and is never a 1st kick starter and I always felt this could be due to not having the best needle fitted.
Hi all, I'm curious what jetting a TRS 300 runs, particularly what needle and slide they use. I'm wanting to see if it's similar or even the same as my '14 GG 300 which runs the std JJH needle.
Have Racetech gold valves in 34mm Yamaha-Kayaba TY250 forks on 250 Godden Majesty. Better than standard forks but I wouldn't claim them to work better than well set up 35mm trials Marzocchis.
Racetech don't list TY250 forks either but Yamaha MX bikes with 34mm forks of the same era have the same design damping internals as the TY250.
Thanks David, but how do you set up 35mm Zokes "well". I was gobsmacked by the rough holes drilled into the damping tubes when I first dis-assembled a few years ago, it was as if the apprentice was given an 8mm drill bit and told to drill some holes in this tube and don't worry about de-burring. I have since tidied this up, added the Magicals and experimented with 5/ 7.5/ 10 wt oils in varying quantities. It's not until I jump on my modern bike that I realise how ordinary those forks are, somewhere in between would be a good compromise if possible.
I've got an '84 300 which currently wears Magicals springs and pre-load adjusters which has been ok for the past few years but could be better.
I am curious if any of you have succeeded in making the 35mm Zokes perform closer to a modern day fork mainly in regard to plushness. I'm aware of the HFS product out there but this doesn't seem to address oil damping.
Has anyone successfully grafted Racetech emulators into a Trials fork, specifically the Fantic, as they don't have any Trials bikes listed on their website application guide.
To be honest, I haven't got a clue. I have always used motorcycle 2 stroke specific oils in my bikes. Please try that oil you have and report your findings, it won't do any damage I wouldn't think.
Piuma green frame colour
in Italjet
Posted
I did a comparison of Italjet Green verse the Holden Panama Green on a NOS engine bracket I have, the Panama Green is a rattle can mixed up by Super Cheap auto about a year ago.