crashmonkey

I have had a gas gas in the back of a saab estate, first bike we had before I had a trailer, just took the fuel tank off and removed the front wheel, went straight in. I have a removable tow bar as well but no racks to suit, not that i've found anyway, if you do find a rack solution let me know please

So is mine

Oh yeah baby Sorted, must have had trapped wind, sorry air behind one of the caliper pistons, I decided to pop the pistons out of the caliper and assemble submerged in fluid.I thought when I'd read this in another thread that I would ~never~ go to such outrageous lengths ... how desperation can drive you The design certainly lends itself to air getting trapped with no means of escape. Rest bled up a piece of cake, brakes now rock solid Thanks everyone, nice this site is here to help folks out, have one on me

How do you know its the M/C lip seal? can you see that its damaged? Just wondering if this may be my issue.

Thanks for the comments guys, I have a fair amount of mechanical experiance but this has got me stumped .. but I will win in the end The only thing I havn't tried are replacing the caliper piston seals, but they are not leaking. I try doing the piston assembly submerged in fluid as i'm running out of options! I'll let you know how I go on. Does anyone know if you can just buy the caliper seals from lampkins or do you have to buy the pistons as well? Thanks All

First off I have done a search and read a lot of the threads on bleeding brakes. This is the front brake, so far I have: Presssure bled both ways. gravity bled. Bled with the engine on (vibration can help) left for 24 hours for any air in the system to disipate. bled with the caliper of so you can move it around to help dislodge and trapped air. I am sure there is no air in there!! I do have pressure, it just seems a little spongy, the system starts to build pressure almost when the piston has only moved about 3mm.Btw the piston in the m/c is returning fully, and has a brand new seal kit fitted. It almost seems as though the pistons move out as pressure builds in the system, then they move back as well, only a little but enough cause a problem? As always thanks

So you do, problem is they dont ~actually~ sell SBR O rings, and by all accounts you cant get them in the uk. However I was recommended EPDM O rings which I have now got, thanks everyone All I got to do know is bleed them - off to do a search

Thanks guys, any idea how long it would take for it to go off in fluid?? Also where to source SBR O rings in the UK (can only find them on US sites. Cheers for the help so far

Evening Peeps I have lost (I have no idea how?) the 'O' ring from between the 2 caliper halves, and I cant find a part number on Lampkins site for it(not listed) Can I get away with a normal O ring (got lots) or is it likely to leak after a bit? Anyone got a solution? I've already carried out a fingertip search of the workshop and nowt Thanks

Thanks for all the reply everyone, very helpful indeed I think weather pending the plan is to head to Bradford on the 11th, sounds like an ideal event for us Thanks everyone for your help

Unfortunatly if I do that he'll just thnk that if he can't at least feel he can attempt most of it, he'll not be wanting to go back!

Are there any Youth specific beginner dead easy trials coming up anywhere?? I feel that my son is not yet ready for the easy route on our normal club trials, and was looking for something to take him too that he's got half a chance of doing ok in to build his confidence up. Or indeed a 'non' youth specific beginners/ dead easy trial would be good too. I realy don't want to just throw him into something thats too hard and him have a miserable day. He's nearly 10 and rides a beta 80 big wheel if that makes any difference. We are based in the east midlands but dont mind a drive for the right event Thanks

I reply with trepidation I am very very new to trials, mainly to get my son riding, who is enjoying himself very much btw. Take me as an 'out of the loop' straight talking bloke, this is how I see it : The rules are confusing, I havn't even tried to explain them to the lad yet (I dont even understand them myself yet), apart from keep ya feet up and dont fall off!... seems way way to complex. To have different rules at different clubs for the same sport seems ridiculous. My wife was going to volunteer to get involved observing, she has however thought beter of it, for the time at least, 2 reasons for that, firstly she can't understand the rules, secondly the sections look so complicated neither of us can figure out where all the different routes go.Always seem to look like someones thrown a bag of multi coloured pegs up a hillside. Maybe the above is difficult to comprehend for the old hands but like it or not its fact. Youngsters : he's got the wheelie going on .. so he's moved on to stoppies ..... he's practicing balancing .. why?? Because he can't wait to be able hop about like the pro's!! Just the way I see it all, agree or not the above is very simply fact from the eyes of a newbie

Cool, thanks for the reply, I have stripped and lubed the fuel tap up, works much better now tbh

No takers then Or are you all keeping the secrets to yourselves

I have recently aquired a Beta 80 for our young un, and I have a few questions if I may. 1 : Do people stick with the standard 'screw' type fuel tap, as I think its crap tbh - any recommendations on what I could swap it for? 2 : I understand there is a 'competition' clutch for it, if so what does it do? 3 : does any one use a flywheel weight? 4 : I seem to remember reading somewhere about fitting some after market reeds to realy unlock the power in the engine - any views or info? Sorry if these are newb questions. Great bike though, very pleased with it so far

Runs sweet as a nut Not sure if it was the carb or the flywheel tbh, thanks to all for their help, think the fan issue must be the stat as it runs fine when its shorted accross the terminals so got a replacement on order. I tell ya now my ass was twitching when I was about start it in case it went off on one again Time for a few :beer:

Thanks for the replys everyone, I have stripped and cleaned the carb out, bit of poo-tang in their but I susect its not the fault, will try and get it fired up again in the next day or two, must remember to put my heavy duty undies on first though Incidently can anyone advise me on where the stator plate should be to set the timing to standard? just want to check its right whilst the flywheel is off. Thanks

Well this one was an eye opener, I hope some of the readers have got a little technical advise too! Whilst out riding I noticed that my fan wasn't working, I had a good day so went home. Jet washed bike on drive 1 1/2 hours later as per normal (bike now stone cold), then started it up, and it just reved it proverbials off I stopped it by sticking the bung up the pipe to reduce the rpm so the kill switch would work. I did this again after checking all the cables etc and it did the same. Went back to it a little later and it wouldn't start at all, no spark so I took the flywheel casing off, the flywheel then fell off in my hand It has sheared the key off (another on order). Am I right in thinking that the 'fan' issue is probably seperate to the ignition issue, and what causes it to run away when its cold? - surely not the fly wheel being loose? I am along the lines of thinking the runaway caused the flywheel to come off as opposed to the flywheel causing the runaway - but not sure?? I am just trying to get my head round diagnosing the problem First off I will get the fly wheel back on and try it I could realy use some advise on this, so thanks

Hi everyone, I have got grimeco (SP) master cylinders on our bikes and despersately need some new rubber boots, like the ones that you get in the 'master cylinder repair' kits. I am seeming to find that you have to buy the complete repair kits!!!! Can anyone advise if this is the case? If its correct does anything fit from another product? Heres hoping someones got a solution for me. Thanks

Thanks Jan

Hi everyone, can someone tell me what size bearings I need for the rear wheel on an 80 rookie? I think they are the same as a 125pro, but never seems to be much about the rookie listed - and not had the time to get the wheel out to measure. From reading i'd guess at 6004 2RS - just wanting to check before I order. Thanks