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mudyman

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Everything posted by mudyman
 
 
  1. mudyman

    348 oil leak

    I got a different one at the end as I didn´t want to wait for it to come from America ( http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kurbelwellendichtring-Wellendichtring-Simmerring-Auszieher-Montage-Werkzeugset-S-/142282934281?hash=item2120b94809:g:hcIAAOSw3v5YqEup ) which was available localy thisitem is on ebay in the UK as well. Worked just FINE :-)
  2. Hi all, just had a bit of time to look at the forks again. I took the fork cap off and it hissed (air pressure). The cap has a small grub screw with a spring loaded ball bearing (to release pressure in the leg I presume). I have cleaned all this as it was quite cloged up and almost certainly not working. The pressure could have occurred because the bike came in from the cold to the heated workshop and just started leaking as it stood around for a couple of months.
  3. Hi all, the seals should be okay as they came from either Martin @ SWM.com or In Motion Trials. The seal cleaning tool would be a good thing to have so now "on order". I´ll get back after trying this :-)
  4. Hi all, I have got a 1982 / TL320 in the workshop to get the rear end sorted with a new tyre, brake shoes chain and sprockets etc.. I was was quite surprised to see that where it has been standing a small amount of oil has been dripping from one fork leg. The seals are almost new (fitted in Okt. 2016) and the bike was used once for about 1/2 h before weather stopped me. The chrom and the seals seem fine. Can it be that air pressure is building up in the fork leg ? Does the fork cap have a bleeding valve and when it does should it work in both directions ? The forks are the last 35 mm Betors and silver coloured that just have one 35 mm x 47 mm x 10 mm seal (not like in 1981 where there were 2 with 7 mm stacked on top of another). A double lipped one (In Motion don´t have any at present) would probaly be a good idea but if its air pressure this won´t stop it leaking.
  5. mudyman

    348 oil leak

    Hi Ross, that looks very promising will order asap :-) Ian
  6. mudyman

    348 oil leak

    Hi all, I have the following problem, I have a cota 348 which is leaking oil from behind the front sprocket (final drive shaft seal) when it is leaning to this side. The question is how can I change the seal without splitiig the cases ? I have a new seal and hoped to be able to get one or two screws into the seal to pull it out but haven´t had any luck. Is there a better way of getting it out ? It would be a great shame to split the cases for this reason as the engine has had a complete rebuild from the last owner and runs a treat (I guess he forgot to change this seal or it got damaged when doing).
  7. Hi all, has anyone fitted a decompressor to the Cota 248 ? It seems that the hole has never been drilled probably because the smaller bore didn´t leave enough room. A 348 head would do the job but reduce the compression so if anyone has previously tried this please say what it did to compression !
  8. mudyman

    348 Clutch Oil

    Hi Guys, the Maxima looks good and certainly a good option. Unfortunatly its not available in Germany so the postage from the USA or UK will be high.
  9. mudyman

    348 Clutch Oil

    Hi all, is 10W30 (SAE75) as stated in the list better than using ATF for the clutch ?
  10. Hi all, has anyone got information about a swop over from left to right for the gear lever / brake lever ? Theres a pic of Walter Wolfs bike www.bonhams.com/auctions/16535/lot/350/ which shows them changed over and I found a pic of Bernie Schreiber with this change over ftted.
  11. Hi all has anyone changed the Mikuni for a different carb (flat slide for e.g.) ? :-) Ian
  12. Hi Nigel it´s all about painting a 349 MKI from 1980 without having to first protect it against ethenol in petrol. Hi vonhazza it was your post from earlier that helped me with the bit about the 1980 being made of plastic. I have 3 of them and want to get one newly painted. I initialy thought they were GF but looking at them yesterday I found they seem more like plastic when looking around the filler cap. Then I read your post which seems to say the same thing. I also have some 348 one´s in GF that I will give a sealant before ever using again and a 349 white wonder GF one that needs sealant as it started dripping. I bought 2 used tank´s from the 349 MK4 which are fine as being plastic one´s (without paint) and I use them instead of the older ones. I also obtained 2 used tanks with the alloy inner that I have fitted on a couple of 348´s,
  13. Hi all, I have been checking the TC site about the tanks on Cota 348´s, 349´s and 248´s in one it says the following what I think could be correct. All 348´s (exept UK version) had GF Tanks, the early 1979 /1980 349´s (and the 1980/1981 248´s) had plastic tanks that were painted (again not the UK version because of needing the alloy tank). I know for sure that the white wonder 349 in 1981 had a GF tank and the 1982 on MK4 had a plastic one. Can oneone help with this as I need to be certain ?
  14. I had a Jumbo clutch case with a big hole in it welded from a specialist for magnesium welding. It was well worth the small amount it costed. Go on the Internet and look if there´s a company in the area
  15. Hi all, done some measuring again. The forks on the 348 are bout 2,5 cm shorter as on the 349´s. The rear shock mounting on the swingingarm is 2,5 cm further forward (swinging arm length is almost unchanged). all other measurments are the same between the 348 and 349 except that the 349 wheelbase from 1980 was about 3 cm longer than the 348 or a 349 from 1981 and later. As all other bits measure the same between 1980 and 1981 it must be the yokes or more probably the angle of the headstock. I could think it was something to do with the 1980 mod. being the SSDT replica made for longer distance riding as was the seat.
  16. SORRY about being so late with my reply !! I will have a good look at the forks (length etc.) and compare them with some from a 1976 348 + my 1978 348 a my white wonder 349 from 1981. The swinging arms ar all about the same but I will be having a closer look again as the one in the picture looks longer (possibly someone has been at this before). I had a 348 from almost new in 1977 (it had only done the one scottish 6 day´s for one of Bob Gollners boys) later i changed this for a 1977 Cota 348 from Sandifords and both were good if you like big plonkers as I do and always did. After a short time on a 78 Beamish Suzi 250 I had a 1981 349 white wonder from new and this was a big improvement to the Beamish (if you like big bore bikes).
  17. Hi Guys can any one help with the wheelbase of a 1980 349 (I) it´s longer than a 348 or the 349 from 1981 (I have all bikes mentioned and have compared the length). The result is that the 1980 bike was about 3 cm longer but the swinging arm is the same with all bikes so it must be the yokes or the steering head angle. The 1980 bike is a lot worse in sections than the earlier and later models so if its the yokes I could do a change. I can remember the 1980 bike being unpopular because of the handling when it came out. Cheers
  18. Hi i have been having the same trouble with a fast tickover and lean mix so be doing the Same job soon. I did a 348 and when pulling the cog i broke 3 pullers until it came off using a bigger dimension puller. Be aware when it comes off it can fly across the Room. Are you going to split the cases and do the main bearings.
  19. mudyman

    Jumbo Yokes

    Yeah Ive the 38 mm ones on this one.
  20. mudyman

    Jumbo Yokes

    I have a Jumbo 350 with silver straight yokes. having seen pictures of Jumbos I see the most have Betor yokes as in the later TL320 from 1982 on. I did find a few pics where the same yoke are fitted as in my bike so should be origional ones. Has any one got any information about changes ? Cheers Ian
  21. mudyman

    Jumbo Carb

    @baldilocks: thanks will check that out when doing carb. @b40rt: Ross I have had a nights sleep and think you may have hit the nail on the head with the middle box. Be testing and cleaning out first asap ! Cheers Ian
  22. mudyman

    Jumbo Carb

    It is a while ago. Yes played around with running it a bit richer. I´ll do some basics clean the carb, new plug, middle box etc. (points and cond. are new ones). I was wondering if this is a problem that was common. For example the Beamish RL325 does the opposite it fires a few times with the throttle closed.
  23. mudyman

    Jumbo Carb

    Hi Ross, can´t really answer the question about ratio as the bike was standing for about 1/2 a year. First box hasn´t been touched. It was run quite well today and didn´t smoke. Did the tail pipe with the hot air gun last sommer. I will get the middle box off and give it a burn out. Can also try some better quality petrol but something tells me thats probably not going to help as it runs just fine with bags of power and picks up great as long as it isn´t rolling with the throttle closed before and as soon as you pull the clutch and give it just a few revs all is well (my bike has a lovely light clutch with no slip). Ian
  24. mudyman

    Jumbo Carb

    Hi all, I would appreciate any ideas as my Jumbo is now generally running fine but when going down a hill or slope with the throttle closed it needs the clutch pulled and a bit of revs to clear it out before going on. You can use the decomp.-valve to clear it but a few revs are better. One thing I must add is that it has a rear silencer from the TL320 which has 2 smaller exit tubes (th Jumbo should have one bigger one). The silencer is not restricted though. The carb was jetted according to the works specs. without reed valves as from the engine number it should be a late bike.
  25. That is very interesting but TL/M is with the long ride seat for 2 and had the footrests lowerd (as well as having a longer brake lever and gear shift lever) TL NW is still a riddle for me ?
 
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