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Everything posted by mudyman

  1. Just to finish this thread: I had the coil done from Bradford Ignitions and it needs to have a reading from about 850 Ohms depending on the temp. etc.
  2. mudyman


    has anyone any more pics of the silver engine RL250Y with the yellow and black seat as on the later black engine mods. which followed the RL250A that was in red / black ?
  3. Thanks first for all the information sent. I have been through other listings and it seems that quite a lot of other people have had trouble with coils in the past. I have measured the Ignition coil which is the red wire (brown is earth and a thiner white one seems to go to a sensor) the reading was 0,32 Ohms with the device set on the 200 Ohms skale. Now I have the problem that I have a Parts list and the owners manual but not a workshop manual with the needed ohms readings. Has anyone a list or is it possible to say roughly where it should or should not be ? The cdi unit or the condensor / capacitor in it was I think quite suspect but as said I have a second one and this is the same with both. The spare one came with the bike as the last owner had everything done in an Aprilia workshop and they had changed it a year before he sold it to me. This was also one reason for sale as it ran after this cdi unit being changed in 2017 but after being stored in the winter it didnt start again in 2018 and he ended up breaking the kickstart by trying. I got a new kickstart knuckel from Roberto in Italy and cleaned the coils / rotor etc. and also did away with the origional kill switch in the lighting switch. It then started fine and ran but the tickover was unstable so after trying cleaning the carb I went over to Aspen 2T petrol and an Irridium spark plug. This helped and it ran fine for a year (mid 2018) until now stopping in late 2019.
  4. Hi Ross, I take it the capacitor is in the sealed cdi bit (which in this one also has the HT coil in it) ?
  5. I had a good look around last night and did away with the plug that goes in the cdi unit as when moving it the spark seemed to come stronger than before but this hasn´t proved to be the problem. The crank is fine and the wiring is all ok (took the covering off it from top to bottom). I´ve been messing around cleaning the coils etc. and changing the cdi unit for the spare one as the plug for a new one and again for another new one. Hasn´t really helped much it did start and run but in a very strange way just sort of reving up and then losing the spark and then reving again etc. etc.. Now back in the shop I try turning over every now and again it sometimes has a weak spark and sometimes no spark at all.. This seems to be a bit dpending on if you are kicking over or leaving it to stand for 5 mins also depends on the speed of kicking. Im lost now as Im a points and HT coil guy from the sixties ? Any advice is welcome as parts seem to be very rare to try changing things.
  6. I´ll check that today and want to look at the wiring as it´s 27 years old and a broken wire or cracked insulation on a wire would be quite undersatndable
  7. Hi all, I was out with the Climber a week ago and it ran fine for an hour but then when it was on tick over just stoped and didn´t start again. Back home I have been tracing the problem and have tried or rather changed the carb, plug, plug cap, kill switch, and the black box under the tank. I have now found out that when the plug is out and its turned over there is no spark the most of the time unless you turn the engine over a lot faster then the spark apears again. It´s not possible to kick it over this fast with the plug in and it just fires up very very ocaisionaly for a couple of beats now and again. I´m thinking that it´s in the stator plate or something. has anyone had this problem ???? Cheers Ian
  8. Hi all, I have a silver engine RL250 thats using a 72 mm Wiesco piston and now needs a new little end bearing. I became all the Wiesco numbers for Piston Rings piston pin and clips from the last owner but not for the small end baering. Wiesco don´t seem to have any idea what bearing is needed so I thought I´d give it a try here :-)
  9. I need some of these for a Jumbo thats not quite finished ! @ Martin M. are these the ones that I had a pair of a while ago (years ago) that we were talking about a few weeks ago or are they different ?
  10. Thanks for all the information given. @ teamferret Yes I was going to put an SWM carb on at the weekend :-) Hope I have the time to try it as the air screw version hasn´t got a good reputation compared with the fuel mix one. The imulsion tube jet is deeper in the hole with a smaller thread and the wider short thread at the end of the hole is for the so called deep idle jet. @ fourex Thanks for this link I will be getting bits sent now I have this. The Climber did have the CS version fitted and it´s also stated in the manual I got with it. It´s the idle emulsion tube that I have in 68 and the deep idle jet that´s missing so I´ll try some around the 50ish
  11. Hi 2 stroke 4 stroke "yip" been in touch with them but need a size or at least a rough guide I could then order a few different ones @ Teamferret that´s interesting and makes me uncertain as I was asured it should have 2 and that most people miss the hidden one inside when cleaning.
  12. Hi all, I have aquired a 280 Climber which is now running but quite unstable at tick over and just above. I have found that the PHBH26CS carb which is the air screw version (not the petrol adjustment screw type) seems to be missing one of the jets. The Pilot jet is I think made up of 2 jets one is deep down and a sort of atomizing jet or idle imulsion tube as its´s listed (which is marked with 68) and there should be an idle jet "deep" sitting in front of this but it´s missing. Can anyone help with the size needed ?
  13. thanks copemech thats a good tip and I´ll move it slightly as suggested
  14. Hi all, I have goten hold of a 93 Climber that was a non runner when bought. The seller had changed the electronic ignition box last year before putting it away (he said it ran then). He couldn´t start it this year and then the kickstarter snapped. I now have a spare kickstart fitted and got the bike running (rough with it missing beats at tickover). I cleaned the rotor and pickups etc. with brake cleaner and disconnected the handelbar switch after that it ran better but when moving the wires that come through under the tank it seemed to have a problem. I now have the earth cut off after the connector and have run a wire up to a kill button. She now want´s to start as soon as the kickstart is moved but has a nasty habit of kicking back in a very dangerous way. Can anyone help with setting the ignition timing as they adjust themselves as the bike needs when running and the handbook says to set it at 4000 rpm with a stroboskope (Haven´t got this).
  15. mudyman

    348 piston rings

    Hi all ! can any one out there help with sourcing a new or used bottom piston ring for a 1977 Cota 348 with Std. (78 mm) piston ?
  16. Thanks to all for the help and reply´s we will be trying the tips
  17. Hi all, a good friend is in need of help tracing an "after market" pick up coil to replace the old ducati bit. Any information would be great ! I think its a GG Pro from about 2006 but not sure without asking him again.
  18. mudyman

    348 oil leak

    I got a different one at the end as I didn´t want to wait for it to come from America ( http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kurbelwellendichtring-Wellendichtring-Simmerring-Auszieher-Montage-Werkzeugset-S-/142282934281?hash=item2120b94809:g:hcIAAOSw3v5YqEup ) which was available localy thisitem is on ebay in the UK as well. Worked just FINE :-)
  19. Hi all, just had a bit of time to look at the forks again. I took the fork cap off and it hissed (air pressure). The cap has a small grub screw with a spring loaded ball bearing (to release pressure in the leg I presume). I have cleaned all this as it was quite cloged up and almost certainly not working. The pressure could have occurred because the bike came in from the cold to the heated workshop and just started leaking as it stood around for a couple of months.
  20. Hi all, the seals should be okay as they came from either Martin @ SWM.com or In Motion Trials. The seal cleaning tool would be a good thing to have so now "on order". I´ll get back after trying this :-)
  21. Hi all, I have got a 1982 / TL320 in the workshop to get the rear end sorted with a new tyre, brake shoes chain and sprockets etc.. I was was quite surprised to see that where it has been standing a small amount of oil has been dripping from one fork leg. The seals are almost new (fitted in Okt. 2016) and the bike was used once for about 1/2 h before weather stopped me. The chrom and the seals seem fine. Can it be that air pressure is building up in the fork leg ? Does the fork cap have a bleeding valve and when it does should it work in both directions ? The forks are the last 35 mm Betors and silver coloured that just have one 35 mm x 47 mm x 10 mm seal (not like in 1981 where there were 2 with 7 mm stacked on top of another). A double lipped one (In Motion don´t have any at present) would probaly be a good idea but if its air pressure this won´t stop it leaking.
  22. mudyman

    348 oil leak

    Hi Ross, that looks very promising will order asap :-) Ian
  23. mudyman

    348 oil leak

    Hi all, I have the following problem, I have a cota 348 which is leaking oil from behind the front sprocket (final drive shaft seal) when it is leaning to this side. The question is how can I change the seal without splitiig the cases ? I have a new seal and hoped to be able to get one or two screws into the seal to pull it out but haven´t had any luck. Is there a better way of getting it out ? It would be a great shame to split the cases for this reason as the engine has had a complete rebuild from the last owner and runs a treat (I guess he forgot to change this seal or it got damaged when doing).
  24. Hi all, has anyone fitted a decompressor to the Cota 248 ? It seems that the hole has never been drilled probably because the smaller bore didn´t leave enough room. A 348 head would do the job but reduce the compression so if anyone has previously tried this please say what it did to compression !
  25. mudyman

    348 Clutch Oil

    Hi Guys, the Maxima looks good and certainly a good option. Unfortunatly its not available in Germany so the postage from the USA or UK will be high.
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