mudyman

Hi all, has anyone tried cleaning up the acerbis tank with bead blasting or even dry ice blasting ?

HEY ALL Theres a 303 for sale in Italy (subito.it) for 2500 euros !!!!!!!1

Here are the 2 tanks (I only have the tanks and some 348´s and 349´s but no 248 bikes)

Hi all, I forgot to mention that one tank is fiberglass (with the big seat and has the external tube) and the other is zhe UK version with a metal tank and fiberglas cover without level guage. I will try to load a pic soon. I can´t remember ever seeing a 248 as "T" Trail version ? Ian

Hi all, I have a couple of 248 Tank / Seat units and was wondering if there were 2 models of the 248 as one seat is like the 349 SSDT (bigger and longer) the second one is as on the 348 (bothe have the 248 on the seat in white letters) ?

Hey all, thanks again for all suggestions. As promised I want to reply with the reults. I put the decompressor valve from my other 349 on this bike but it didn´t make a big differnce. I then swaped the carbs from the 349´s again. This time it started and the other bike didn´t want to start. When cleaning the carb again I think the little hole in the bottom of the float bowl which leads to the opening where this small pipe does down was restricted however having cleaned all again it can´t be verified. The bike now starts first or second kick :-)

Thanks to all, I will try some of these things and give a feed back asap !

Hi all I have 2 TL320´s that are both leaking oil from the kickstart shaft / gear change shaft. They both have had the seals changed and the Oring for the gear lever changed. Sometimes they drip a lot from the gear change shaft and sometimes a bit from the kick start shaft. Other days they don´t leak at all. If the bikes lean away fromthe shat´s they usually stay dry (shame that the side stand is on this side). Any tips welcome !

Hi Guy´s now I´m at the end of my ideas so please help with new ones ! I have a 349 from 1980 /81 when I got it it didn´t start until the seller put a quick spray of starter spray in the second plug hole. The bike then started and ran fine. I have found that this problem is always there when starting it from cold (that ist to say when she fires up once then she will go on starting without problems even if still cold). The first job I did was to fit new points and condensor. I then changed the carb for one thats on my 1981 349 that starts first kick. None of this made any difference so I set the timing up being careful to get it right. After this the bike ran noticebly better and I was sure it started a few times from cold. Now after the bike has been standing around for about 6 weeks it didn´t start today until I put few drops of petrol in the plug hole "again". It then started first kick but went out after about 5 seconds (starved). I put another few drops in the plug hole and it started again first kick and as I kept the throttle 1/3 open it kept on running. The only thing I can try is putting a decomp valve on the bike and try kicking it over a few times with the throttle open to get petrol into the chamber.

Rotax can still supply or speak to canam mialtary (ggogle it) they have some as i got 4 or 5 from them this year

Hi Guys, I also need to fill the engine of my Gripper. Just finished changing mains etc. so good to hear about the 900 ml for the smaller cases of a Gripper. How does Motul Transoil expert SAE 1W40 sound it´s all I have at present (use it in the SWM´s) ?

Just had to spend a while with a differnt bike that didn´t want to start after standing around over the winter. After a few tests it seemed that the condensor was probably the problem. This was quite a new one and fitted as standard. I just left the old one in (still connected) and put a new one up by the coil. Bike started first kick and has a good spark now !!

I was thinking about trying ATF oil instead of the 10W 30 oil in the clutch side. Any advice welcome if this is a good or bad idea !

All things mentioned are possible so start at the easiest bit "plug" then go on to the condensor and points. When not better get the carb off.

Thanks for all advice ! First job will be the condensor, second need to get the tail pipe cleaned out as I think its restricting things. I think this can this cause a rich mixture (to littel air passing through will richen ??). What I dont exactly understand is why a (new) plug as b40RT (Ross) says after being once duff cant be cleaned and made usable again (but he´s correct as I had this with SWM´s in the past). Zerorev3rev4 I also like the condenser under the tank as its not hot and easy to change so "will do" as you state.

Hi Guys one of my 348´s has developed a strange problem. With a new plug fitted (NGK BP5ES) the bike started and ran okay. After about 1/2 an hour the plug broke down and it started misfirng. Next time out with a new plug the same happend again after about 1 hour, strangely on the same climb (3rd gear pull). The plug showed it was running a bit rich but the plugs are duff as after cleaning and fitting to a good bike the bike ran but not 100 % and started misfiring after a few mins.??

Hi Baldilocks been looking through them again and yes that was what I had been think of. Ian

Hi Ducman (Mike), I have just sent a mail to Conrads (haven´t had much time in the last while). Wait and see what comes back. Ian

Hi all, It´s really amazing how the bikes just do not want to stall. I ride a cota 349 quite often for a change but keep coming back to my SWM´s (but not the Jumbo 350 as this is a differnt cup of tee and I´m thinking of selling it). Ian

Hi baldilocks, if you go through all the older SWM topics / posts, I´m sure there was a complete thing about changing the Baffels with diagrams and more information. Cheers Ian

I have a 320 that had a bing carb fitted and yes its bigger (this bike also had a different sort of clutch cover that I think Martin said was from an early Military??). At present its got some insulating tape round the Dellorto carb to seal it up. This is one of the ones where I wolud like to change it. Ian

Hi Ross, if you find a source let me have it as I need 2 of them ! Cheers Ian

Short update, the problem got worse and the clutch was just working until the engine was warmed up. Found that the grub screw had got loose and allowed the adjustment screw to back out a bit. Got it back as should be and the clutch is now working again (but is a little bit sticky when the engine is warmed up and the clutch is activated the first time after the clutch is not used for a while). Oil change may help here.

Update: used Aspen 2 in the white wonder (cota 349) GF-Tank and found it leaking at the end of the day. Probably just too late changing over to Aspen.

Hi Ross, using Motul Transoil expert at present as this was recomended. The cable etc. are okay and it works fine after this very short sticky time. Its about one stroke of the engine and this is my problem because if in a tight turn if the bike pulls another stroke longer than wanted you can get into trouble. I was thinking of trying ATF fluid or a part ATF (as we did with the GasGas about 2002) but don´t really want to as its not recommended. Been looking for the TXR cover for ages now but haven´t found one complete (just the outside bit with the lever). Cheers Ian