mic

Thanks, i ended up comverting to Lipo instead, should have done it long time ago

Hi, im just wondering if its just as easy as using 2 x12v batteries and run the bike or is there any kind of low voltage protection circuit preventing this? If so, what do i need to do to fix this?

Now it's fixed, the guy who did it used tig to patch things up, looked alright to me and I'm happy to have a working bike again.

Thanks for the feedback, I have found a guy that is a licensed welder after talking to my local bikeshop. He will weld it next week, can't wait to get it back so I can ride again?

I was going to change the airbox on my bike today since it ws damaged, and when i cleaned some hard to reach places on the frame while having the airbox detached i found two really big cracks under the rubber protector on the upper rearshock mount, see picture. I had to zoom in to make the cracks visible since the frame is black, but it is identical on both sides of the shockmount, and the picture is tilted 90 degrees, but i hope you can make out the location anyway, i can always upload another picture if not. Obviously i need to fix this, but what mehod of welding would you guys recommend, and what material is the frame made of? Is it chromoly? Should i try to reinforce it or just weld the cracks together after stripping the paint and cleaning them up?

Thanks, I talked to a GasGas reseller here in Sweden and he told me that rear mudguards from -02 to -11 fits the 2008 model, after this the airbox and frame was changed (maybe this information can be useful for some of you).

Yes i have but, last i checked they were out of stock, and in one shop it cost a bit over 100£ and in the other about 34£, and it seems that the 2008 version is extra expensive for some reason, thats why i asked if someone knows if other will fit.

Does anyone know if newer Mudguards fits à 2008? Or a place where i can buy black ones?

Does anyone know if these sticker kits will fit on an 2008 txtpro 280? I have only seen them applied to newer bikes. Edit: Found a site were it says that they fit 2008, sorry

When i bought my bike it had a real bad clutch drag and i tested different oils and checked the clutch pack size etc, (there are a good thread about it here on the forum) all was up to spec, next i ordered a repairkit for the mastercylinder replaced it and refilled the system from the bottom up getting rid of all air and it works perfect.

I had some real issues with clutchdrag with my bike (280 pro -2008) and after i tested ATF and changed the master cylinder at the same time and the drag was gone (just testing it on my backyard) , but when i tested it in rinding conditions the clutch was just like on/off, no feeling at all, so im going back to test some other oil and see if i get a better feel in the clutch.

If anyone has the same problem i can tell you what fixed my clutch, ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit and fitted it the other day, bleeded the system and filled with fresh oil and all problems are gone. The clutch is now working just as i want it to, thanks to everyone that has been giving me help, hopefully this thread might be of use to someone else with simular problems. If anything i have atleast learned alot about my bike

Still not happy with my clutch but have not been riding much lately, decided to remove the clutchpack and check again today, noticed that all fingers are not equally high, see picture. The complete clutchpack height is 9,75-9,8mm, the bottom fiberplat is 2.2, the other two are 1,8mm, the steelplates are 2mm each. However if i place the steelplates on a glass surface i can see that they are a little bit warped, not much but still enough to be seen. Could this cause the problems im having? Also there was some strange wear/burn mark at some parts on the outer side of the steelplates.

I know that i probably always will have some drag, but if i keep the clutchlever pulled to the handlebar the bike slowly putters away by itself, i have tried 2 other gasgas bikes and they are nothing like mine. The way it works now does make me uncomfortable when riding

Hi, im still having some problems with my clutch dragging and im planning to rebuild the mastercylinder and change the seals in the slavecylinder to see if that helps or if nothing else to eliminate one problemsource. I have a 2008 280txt pro and just want to check if these are the correct parts for the job: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/gasgas-pro-clutch-slave-cylinder-seal-mineral-oil.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ajp-master-cylinder-seal-kit-mineral-oil.html Something else i might need/find useful, please let me know. Many thanks //Mic

Here's my 2008 txt pro. Nothing special with the bike yet, but it's mine;)

Great video, wish i had places like that to ride

Thanks for your input, i know its a bit like trying out new shoes, but unfortunatly the nearest shop with Trialgear is 350km from me, so a trip for testing will cost me almost the same as an extra helmet in this pricerange, plus i have to spend an entire day in the car. I will have a second look at some webshops and see what i will order, but i will have a look at the Mots helmet aswell.

My birthday is coming up and my wife has decided to give me a new helmet Nothing to expensive though, i have been looking at some Jitsie helmets or wulfsport, any riders here using them or can recomend them, other helmets below 100 Euro is also interresting? I cannot test them in a store so i have to take my chances with the sizing, should i be ok if i order by measuring my headsize? Thanks /Mic

Ok, now i have opened the clutchpackage and thouroghly cleaned them with brake cleaner, measured the pack and it is within the tolerances specified (i measured 9.8mm), reassembled everything and filled it with 550ml (according to the manual) motorex 10w/30 which was all that was available at my local bikeshop, skipped the ATF oil after your comments. Started the thing and i could notice a small improvement, but still quite a bit of drag... Im far from an expert on these things, but my feeling is that the slavecylinder dont move enough to completely disengage the clutch.

looks really nice, do you have a picture showing the whole bike? Im looking to buy a new kit for my -08. I

Found it, thanks

I removed the dustseal and checked the mastercylinder, it was a bit of oil and dirt that was collected behind the circlips, i removed it and cleaned everything but still way to much drag. im going to try to change the oil and bleed the system and also change the gearbox oil later today. Unfortunatly i have already bought some ATF dexron 3 for the gearbox after advice of an other GasGas owner, otherwise i could have tried the oil you suggested (shercoben).

Thanks for your input, i found a tutorial on youtube for the clutch adjustment and mine is setup just like it, not much to adjust really. I guess i have to get used to it then, but i have to agree, its not the way i would like it t be.

I have a problem with the clutch on my bike, it keeps dragging even with the lever completely pulled in to the handlebar. The bike is used but new to me since one week, the last owner used Motorex 10W30 synthetic gearbox oil, so my first question is if this is a good oil to use for my bike? It has been a while since i last owned a bike and the last one did not have an hydraulic clutch so im not yet familiar with this, can the problem be air in the hydralic system for the clutch? It does not feel like it is slipping at any point, just not completely disengaging when the lever is pulled. I have tried to adjust the play and the "setting" of the clutch lever, but without any noticable difference. Please let me know if you have any ideas?