Thanks for your advice and opinions Neo. I just bought a clear floatbowl and am going to install it in time for next weekend. When you've set your floats with your handy little tool (I take it that is what the black gadget is in the photo) which of the graduations does the fuel level coincide with please, if the carb is held upright? Cheers, Dave
I'm running the same set up as you Ben and don't have problems. I always use 98 octane fuel, mix at 66:1 and store it in a steel, not plastic, container. Have had pinking problems in the past, even with super unleaded fuel, particularly when snapping the throttle shut at the top of a climb, or running on light throttle between sections, and that was due to an air leak on the intake side. Suggest you have a look around the reed block to crankcase and manifold joints and make sure there are no leaks. Hope you get it sorted soon. Dave
They kind of did and didn't Dabster. After Eddy & Steve went off the boil they didn't have any up and coming riders so they just lowered their involvement. They didn't chuck it in. Just went low key. That's my take on it but they've had bikes of various abilities in production since '74.
Eddy retired, but Steve had no choice; Honda quit. There's many like me who think Steve would've been No1 if Honda had stayed with it another year.
Welcome back from the dark side, mate; hope the new bike's okay! The radiator fan cowl is held on by just two pop rivets. This is okay as long as it is tight against the rad, but on some it isn't so joggles up and down and wears through the rad. The mod is to remove the cowl, smooth off any rough edges and refix it with four pop rivets; two each side. Best check and mod if necessary. Mine's been okay.
There's bound to be someone on here that knows the answer to several places of decimals but until he or she shows up I took a steel rule to my GasGas wheel so that you may be able to make a comparison. Passing the tape through the wheel the length to outer edge of spacers is 160mm. Without spacers, that is to outer edge of bearings is 147mm. Outer face of sprocket to outer face of disc is also 147mm. All these are 'by eye' but they may help you establish whether or not to keep your present wheel.
Have to agree with all the sentiments expressed and pleased to see Wiggy adjusting so quickly to the top level too. Based on her present rate of improvement it surely won't be long before Joanne Coles steps onto the podium of the Ladies World Trial stage?
On a GasGas they're M4x8 and I'd guess the Sherco is the same, but not certain. I've fitted Boysen reeds to several Gassers over the years and never had to re-jet. Some needed a twiddle of the mixture screw, but nothing major. Good luck getting those screws. Dave
This has been asked before and you've come up with the same answer - nowt! Magnesium should be protected by zinc chromate primer before other paint apllications. I reckon the truth of the matter is that the factory just used any old paint from the local market and is embarrassed to admit it. PJ1 used to make a gold paint, but it wasn't a perfect match and I can't find it now. If you do find the right colour paint don't forget to apply it with a creosote brush to match the factory finish
There's no problem. Just get in the habit of turning the fuel off when you park the bike and remember to turn it on again after you've restarted it. Avoid parking the bike facing downhill too.
Don't look now, but there's one on ebay! Make sure it looks the same, fits the same way up as the one you've got and that the distance between centres is also identical.
The Hardest route is becoming elitest in that only half a dozen good riders can cope, but they cope well.
This means that the other 'only just good enough' riders tend to drop down to the Middle route. This then has the effect of making the middle route seem too easy, so organisers make the middle route harder. Then, the better riders who've dropped down stay down and the rest begin to struggle.
You've summed that up perfectly, Pete. Is there a solution? 50/50?
If its something that's started recently and you haven't changed anything check for leaks on the intake side; particularly the face between the crankcase and the reed block/intake stub. The rubber intake stubs can also split, but always at the back, next to the exhaust, where you can't see! I always use super unleaded fuel too.
The rear box on a Pampera I once had was a similar design. I cut out all the bulkheads and installed a straight perforated tube as you are proposing to do and it ran a lot better, especially at the top end which had been stifled before. It wasn't necessary to re-jet either, but you might have to do this. Yes it was marginally noisier on full chat, but there was no real difference at low revs. The sheep will soon get used to it
I had a similar experience and it was the bore inside the master cylinder that was damaged/worn. Most of the time you only pull the lever in part way and this is where the bore wears. When you hold the lever fully in the seals reach part of the bore that its not so worn and hence they actually seal. Can you borrow a master cylinder that's known to be good to eliminate the problem for yourself? Dave
Sounds like you haven't got enough free play on the clutch lever and therefore the system remains pressurised because the fluid cannot return to the master cylinder reservoir.
The Oko 26 Rock Test
in Sherco
Posted
Thanks for your advice and opinions Neo. I just bought a clear floatbowl and am going to install it in time for next weekend. When you've set your floats with your handy little tool (I take it that is what the black gadget is in the photo) which of the graduations does the fuel level coincide with please, if the carb is held upright? Cheers, Dave