I finally got my 300 back together again today after changing the crank bearings and seals. It started very nicely at the 5 th kick, but it soon became way too hot. The fan went on after about 30 seconds and after a minute even the rear muffler was burning hot.
In light of what you said above the answer to your latest question is 100% certain!
So have you done anything to improve the spark you're getting? Have you you cleaned up the faces of the stator where it sits against the crankcase to make sure there's no corrosion and a good earth? Have you checked all the wiring; cleaned the earths and coil where they're fixed to the frame and made sure the plug cap is in good contact with the lead? I'd try all these things before looking for a new stator or slagging off the manufacturer or importer.
You need to drill a small 3mm hole in the bottom to let any water out. If you seal the cover it'll just make any condensation worse. Its a good idea to look inside from time to time and spray everything with WD40 so corrosion is kept at bay.
Sounds like you didn't have enough free play at the lever end so the fluid couldn't return to the master cylinder. Had you adjusted the stop to bring the lever back closer to the bars without adjusting to maintain the free play?
If the seals are okay I'd put it all back together. Refill the master cylinder, put the bars on full left lock (to make the master cylinder the highest part of the bike) and keep squeezing the lever gently until no more tiny bubbles appear from the bottom of the reservoir, and you should be back in business. Top up the reservoir and have fun!
Bad luck mate! Can't you get it welded? The 125's use the same crankcases so a pre-Pro frame from a 125 should be okay, but it might be worth checking out a parts list just to be sure. The 1998 bikes were known to have a frame problem and Shirty had them all replaced FOC by a travelling team of factory mechanics, and the new frames were stronger so I'm surprised you've got a problem with a 99 bike. Hope you get it sorted and back on two wheels soon.
A simple question one would have thought, but it depends on all sorts of things like your weight and whether you're riding on mud or rocks, or even the make of tyre, but as a starting point try 6psi in the front and 4psi in the rear.
Well done Dan, what's the secret for posting pic's then?
There's nothing wrong with those reeds. Do you expect them to look brand new after 6 years? The discolouration is just a build up of varnish. The bottom reed has a sheltered existence but the top reed is closer to the action, that's all.
Those are the ones I use too, Tom. With regards to the air screw, mine is 1.75 turns out, which is probably a good starting point for you, but you'll have to 'play it by ear'.
Your hydraulic seals are leaking, most likely inside the clutch case. As the system leaks pressure so the clutch is let out. Check pack height etc, when you're doing the seals.
After you have replaced the seals in grooves on the spigot fixed to the clutch case fill the 'top hat' shaped plunger with fluid and hold it upright as you slide it over the new seals. This should push any air up through the case and beyond the bleed nipple. If you then turn the bars to a full right hand lock (so the clutch lever is at the highest point) and gently pull the lever the system will self bleed. If you take the reservoir cap off you will see minute air bubbles escaping as you tickle the lever. You only need to move the level a small amount. Always works for me
I'm with Bikespace on this one; clearly a problem that is perceived, but not actual. As long as the section marking is consistent throughout the trial and advertised in the reg's or when signing on I don't believe there's a problem.
Tighten the pinch bolts again on the disc side and undo and remove the allen socket headed retainer. Undo the pinch bolts and push the spindle through from the brake side using your fingers until you have enough to grab hold of the spindle and pull from the other end. That's assuming it was nice and greasy when it was put in
Only ridden there the once a few years ago now. Its pretty sandy and loose. Can't remember which club it was then; they had a graded hillclimb up one hell of a bank, but I don't know what Bewdley will have planned for Sunday.
The best bike I ever had for cruising on the road was a 348 Mont and I presume the 349's were the same. They were good for 70+ mph and would cruise along easily at 50 mph. The front brake was a bit small though! Happy Christmas!
Nothing on in the Western or Midland centres on those days Dan, but Oxford Ixion has a trial on 30th December. Details can be found on the TC fixture calendar. Cheers, Dave
Happy Christmas!
Still Burning Gear Oil
in Gas Gas
Posted
In light of what you said above the answer to your latest question is 100% certain!