arnoux

In Australia we have aproduct called PLASTEX, it works really well on Scorpa tanks, - I have done a few. The tank can be plastic welded. Sorry i cannot remember the name of the plastic filler weld rod but the professional welder of plastics will cut a thin slice of the material from around the inside of the filler neck, it only needs to be tiny. Then by burning it they can tell which rod to use. Also grind a bit from the inside of the kickstarter, there is a bit of a "lump" on the end of the lever which has caused your crack - zip it off with the linisher or powerfile. Cheers

No problems - check this out!

If it's got spark, and it's in the right place (woodruff key not broken), then I would be checking to see if it's getting fuel. Clean carby and jets , fresh fuel , no kinked or blocked breather pipe, make sure airfilter is clean of any crap, all airfilter and carby joints in place, and clamps tiight (not sucking any extra air) new spark plug properly gapped, etc.

Bo I'll have to stick my two cents worth in and say the BJ clutch plates are good if you are a competent rider, they are comsistant but they GRAB! (it's the dimpling on the plates). If you are a novice or club rider I'd extend the actuating arm like the one we did for YAMFAN. this gives a more feel on clutch take up (over a broader movement ) and it's easier to slip the clutch with more response. I have only installed the BJ plates on one riders bike, but he went back to standard after a few weeks of them in the bike. That's not to say they are not right, just maybe not for everybody. Try the clutch lever or actuating arm extension first would be my advice (for what it's worth)

The seat on the 250cc LongRide kit is a bit on the slim side, but this one for the 125/175/200 range is excellent. You will be able to traverse many miles in comfort. It is not just an afterthought - it is a really good little unit and does not limit the amount you can lay the bike over in competition type trials much either. Riders with the seat in Australia tend to leave it on all the time for free riding and competition. Money well spent.

1. We have not seen,or heard of any 163 Scorpas with any mechanical problems what so ever. It is a very reliable, straight forward motor in a great robust chassis. 2. The seat fits straight on to the Racing model. You do need the seat mounting bolts (3) as well, which replace the existing fender mounting bolts. A two minute job. 3. The LongRide is trad Blue/White/Black. The 163cc is extremely fuel efficient - you could just get the Racing model and a seat if you do not need to be road registered. 4. The 163 did the last Scottish six day no worries, with a trouble free run and a good finish number..........nuff said! Perfect for what you want.

As Sargeant Shultz so succinctly put it........I know NOTHING! Arnoux

Jools whats the Jap race spec conversion? Damo Jap spec is same as Australian spec. More advanced timing and lighter flywheel than UK spec models.

Actual displacement of Taddy's bike at the US World Round last year was 300cc's. Barcota - 300cc's .....how do you know this? That's not story i got from Scorpa USA, Scorpa France or the boys at SRT. And it is still not the case. The main reason he was struggling, more than his normal , general ability level, was the bike turned up at 5pm on the thursday night, zero setup time, and he had clutch issues, swapping plates left right and centre. Not finding a suitable clutch pack combination for the slippery conditions.

Narita's bike is a 125cc, so having seen Taddy ride maybe it was the rider rather than the bike that was having trouble in the USA! Listen to the way Narita rides it - he seems to have the technique. Pin the throttle and ride it on the clutch.

"When riding fast down connecting trails, the engine seems to pre-ignite and knock. It only seems to happen at high RPM." "Right now the bike runs fairly crisply, but the off throttle roll-on condition has me thinking I'm too lean on the pilot/slow speed circuit (Or just the timing is way too close to TDC)". These two statements seem to contradict each other - is it a High RPM issue (probably main Jet) or is it the other , or both? For sustained High speed type trail (not Trials) type riding try a 145 / 150 main at least, and time to the standard Yamaha (Scorpa UK spec) mark (not the more advanced Scorpa Racing timing) arnoux

Yes it is silly to have to run race gas - if it is jetted properly you will be able to run pump gas. Is it a genuine LongRide, or a SY250 Racing fitted with a Longride tank/seat combo? If it is the later, you may be running too lean a main jet for Trail riding. What number main jet is fitted? Do not go less than 145, though you will probably need a 150 or more depending on Temp.Altitude etc. There are many main jet sizes available for the TK carb.

Or... if you dont have a jack - put the two rear bolts in loosely (a couple on turns each nut) Then use either a longer bolt on one of the front holes just to pull it in, or a pair of vice grips or G Clamp to pull it in. This way you can get one of the original bolts in the second front hole, then when you get a few turns on that pull out the long bolt or release the vice grips and bung the second original bolt in. No Worries!

Found the flyer for Christian Rayer's 200cc Kit.

DG The 163cc - It's sold in Australia as a TYS200F. It was released well after the 175 (143cc), so to avoid confusion , because it has a larger capacity than the SY175 and TYS175 it was deemed logical to make the nomenclature follow a similar line. Hence TYS200F. Arnoux

The 163cc bike is sold as a TYS200F, and the 143cc is branded as a TYS175F. Christian Rayer does a true 200cc Kit including cams, ignition as well as obviously barrel, piston etc. The crankcase does need to be bored to accept the large liner sleeve though. Apparently it's a bit of a firecracker. I believe Birk's has tried the kit on a bike if you ned first hand information. arnoux

Well you'll have to pull it apart to make that decision! You made need to replace the gasket, or you may just need a squirt of high temp gasket sealant around the matching faces. You will need to remove a bit of the rear part of the exhaust to get the header pipe off. Also a cut down allen key for the left side bolt makes life a bit easier. Jet - Get that from Birk's. Support your Trials dealers! Do you see much trials stuff in your local Yamaha dealer? Also Birkett's may be able to advise what jet size for UK conditions is best. (We are a long way away after all!) Cheers Arnoux

Hey Nitjay Sorry about the broken links on my website (wwwthehellteam.com) - it's now fixed. Can you blokes please let me know if you find any broken stuff like that, so repairs can be carried out Pronto! The leak at the header will definitely affect bike performance, fix that straight away. Jet wise, standard is 145 and it tends to be a little conservative (gotta cover yourself against long sustained high rev trail type riders, or SSDT type situations). In most trial situations you will find a leaner main jet will really help the Yamaha 4gg motor rev much cleaner. Use your head when leaning out main jets, but 140 to 136ish should be OK. You will notice a big improvement. Oh, and they dont have a rev limiter. All the best Arnoux

Back to back, if you are used to BigBore Gasser power try an 07 SY250 Racing as they have substancially more "punch" than an 05. (higher compression, exhaust changes etc). and you will not be dissappointed. Don't put it back to back with a "UK spec" SY, as these have a more retarded ignition setting than the SY Racing, and a heavier flywheel. (great for low traction riding but it does chop the top end a tad.) All mods are easy to acheive on any SY though, so a "UK Spec" is easily converted to "Racing Spec" and visa versa.

You can now get a bigger "LongRide" tank for the SY125/175 TYS125/175 family of bikes. Contact your local Scorpa dealer for details. It can be used with the seat option, and bolts right on.Scorpa TYS LongRide

The tanks are made of a type of nylon, and we (Scorpa Australia) have only seen a couple with cracks, both from massive falls. Both tanks were repaired by plastic welding. You just need to find the correct rods. A lick of paint and both are still in service well after the incidents. Easier than a bent frame any day. arnoux

Scorpa Australia have just upgraded their Tech section of www.thehellteam.com with a heap of new (and not so new) Manuals - Workshop, engine, user, parts lists etc for all Scorpa models. (including Rotax and some Yammy TY stuff.) Cheers arnoux

There is a whole heap of useful Scorpa resources on the Scorpa Australia website's Tech page.Link here.

Scorpa Australia / The hell Team still have a stock of early Scorpa guards.Here.

I think you have missed the boat a bit Motofire, there is a long history in all of the great car and bike manufacturers of "specials" or concept vehicles. It's all about stretching the engineers imagination and ingenuity, and also creating interest in the brand at the motorshows. Most of those projects are never going into production - they are a showpiece for the brand. Get some publicity, get some column inches in the magazines, get some excitment and interest in the design and build areas in the company. I reckon it's a good thing, they are not stagnant and boring, 3 cheers and well done SCORPA.