arnoux

There is a whole heap of useful Scorpa resources on the Scorpa Australia website's Tech page.Link here.

Scorpa Australia / The hell Team still have a stock of early Scorpa guards.Here.

I think you have missed the boat a bit Motofire, there is a long history in all of the great car and bike manufacturers of "specials" or concept vehicles. It's all about stretching the engineers imagination and ingenuity, and also creating interest in the brand at the motorshows. Most of those projects are never going into production - they are a showpiece for the brand. Get some publicity, get some column inches in the magazines, get some excitment and interest in the design and build areas in the company. I reckon it's a good thing, they are not stagnant and boring, 3 cheers and well done SCORPA.

Scumpy you need to change your bike from the "UK" spec to the "Racing" spec as sold in most other markets. To do this you will need to - Lighten the flywheel - Advance the ignition timing (HERE) - reduce the main jet to a 136 (ish). The standard 145 is pretty conservative and runs a bit rich up top, not letting the bike rev cleanly. (I have run as low as 123 with absolutely no problems) - and if you can be bothered, go the thinner base gasket. Then it will HONK!

Hey Coldcake Sorry to hear of your problem. Scorpa plastics are incredibly good, - the plastic itself is much more resistant to breakage than all the other brands. You can turn the rear mudguard right back on itself without any problem - try that on a few of the other bikes and you'll be up for a new guard. If you bought the bike new, and the problem is not"crash" related, I would be taking it back to the dealer you bought it from, there could be a problem with that bike specifically. If it is a manufacturers fault you'll get new guards! Is the paint cracking, peeling or lifting? Can you post a pic of the damaged areas? I have bought and sold lots of Scorpas in Australia and have never had to warranty any plastics because of finish, or anything else. It is a most unusual sort of a problem. I would definitely follow it up with your dealer. Good luck

Mr Ant man I'd say definetely pre-production model by the riding characteristics, and the sound 'cos the new ones have larger exhaust openings at the final muffler (needed less back pressure apparently - some stalling on engine braking on pre prod models) The sound is now way better! You can tell current model because exhaust openings are asymetrical - round opening on left side, oval on right side (Pre prod model both sides were the same) Heaps of other changes on current model also to carby intake, jetting, port intake, fuel pump etc. The bike runs pretty sweetly now. Must concur about running a bike in properly before fiddling with anything. And always keep copious notes so you can return to a base line or previous setup. We have had one on a dyno and ended up back with the stock 07 jets and 2.5 turns on the mixture for Max power - too easy.

Scorpa recommend Motul 300 V - 10w40 for this model. All Factory specs and manuals / parts lists can be found at Scorpa's Australian website.(The Hell Team.) Here. Hope this helps.

Should be readily available from Birk's (are you in the UK?) or your local Scorpa dealer. At least you will get the right ones!

There is an permanent oil strainer inside the crankcase. User's manuals for this engine are available at Yamaha America online Here

GG Boy The Scorpa Factory are working on a totally new web site, due for imminent release. Apparently we won't have to wait long. Check outThis and that and this one too! while you wait.

Mitani in Japan have both these items. Good excuse for a holiday to next years world round!

Don, Mike from the Tryals shop (US Scorpa importer) will be able to sell you these parts state side.

More likely unobtanium!

boofoot you don't need a bleed fitting! Twist the Mastercylinder on the bars so the reservoir is level. Take the Fluid reservoir cap off. Make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir, and that the two (2) small holes are not showing in the bottom of the reservoir. Now pump the lever SLOWLY. You do not need to stroke it in all the way, just small, short , slow movements. You will probably see a bunch of extremely small air bubbles coming to the surface. If you are pumping too hard you will get a squirt of hydraulic fluid rocketting up into the stratosphere. (have a rag handy!) As you are slowly pumping the lever, flick the hose with a finger on your free hand to dislodge any small trapped bubbles. This will bleed the system if done correctly. Take your time, and be gentle. IT DOES WORK! Always use fresh, clean fluid. And when you put it back together make sure you don't overfill the fluid reservoir! Arnoux

This would probably have been caused by overfilling the fluid reservoir at the mastercylinder.(the previous owner giving it a once over to sell it, no doubt!) If there is no room for the fluid to expand into , then the only way is out! (so to speak) This is the basic premise of how a hydraulic brake system works, but room must be left in the reservoir or there will be strife! Basically the fluid forces the slave piston out beyond it's area of operation, forcing the circlip to fail. This is why the lever had the strange action to start with. Fill the Mastercylinder so the fluid is partially up the sight glass on the front - DO NOT FILL RIGHT TO THE TOP. The clutch action can be modified with the adjuster on the slave (Part# 3150b) in conjunction with the adjuster on the clutch lever. Hope this is of some help. Arnoux

Carbon Guards can be found at www.thehellteam.com ships worldwide A Beta Ignition coil cover with some very minor shortening also makes an excellent cover!

If you need a good sump plug check out : http://www.scorpaaustralia.com/stuff.html

They are available from most Scorpa dealers worldwide. (we stock quite a few, www.thehellteam.com) and can also be ordered from any Yamaha dealer. All Yamaha engine parts on a Scorpa use their original Yamaha part numbers on the Scorpa parts lists. All the best Paul The Hell Team Scorpa Australia.

Most unfortunate! Scorpa Importer in OZ has some in stock if you are truelly boned. www.thehellteam.com

What about a 200 KIT!This has been emailed to me a few times. Anyone got any info?

Brad if you really need to know............ http://www.bemotrial.de/bemoframe.htm look under special items then Scorpa . You'll find the trick W/P replacements. Why don't you try the old BETA Rev 3 coil cover slightly modified - works a treat!

Because the TY is built to be road registered. It has to pass stringent noise and emmisions test ( these tests are carried out with restricted airbox - keeps down induction noise. and longer gearing - again less revs for same speed.) Airbox and other mods are for "OFF road use ONLY" as they say in the classics!

Howdy. I'm trying to track down an engine manual for the Rotax engine in a 96 Scorpa Easy. has anyone got one that they can scan a few relevant pages, or know of a web link to such a beast. Thanks A

The proofs in the pudding Gasman....Take a Scorpa for a ride, You won't want to get off it!

Scorpa every time! Plush suspension, nice low down grunt, won't put you into orbit but will keep your feet on the pegs!