arnoux

There is a tool for removing the clutch. GG part number T0118090 Or you can just go to the Bolt shop and get (from memory) a M18 bolt about 90mm long. If you look inside the clutch centre you will see the internal thread. Wind the bolt into this and it pops the whole shooting match off.

This happens on the JGas when the bike is left leaning to the left for a time. If the bike is upright or leaning right it doesn't happen. Breather hole must be pretty close to the top of the oil level or something like that. First noticed this when tying bikes in to the van in 2012. Learn't quickly to lean them the other way!

Running the front pipe that DOESN'T have the muffler box in it helps. Not sure how your are configured state side, but due to government noise restrictions ours have to come with the quieter exhaust, but dumping that and running the straight through header works well. Good little bike.

Sounds like you have no freeplay on the Master cylinder actuating pin. That then doesn't allow the clutch fluid to pass back into the Master Cylinder reservoir because the piston seal has now "passed" the bleed hole. So the system has positive pressure that cant be released and it is actuating the clutch slave without the lever being pulled. Also make sure when you have freeplay that there is also some room in the reservoir and it's not "FULL"., so there is somewhere for the fluid to pass back into! Also make sure all the diaphragm fingers are lying flat when you reassemble (easiest to lay the bike over on it's left side) so the clutch thrust bearing and washer don't get hooked up under a finger or two. Also make sure the kickstart quadrant gear friction spring is lined up properly (the "loop" should be at 1 o'clock position when looking directly perpendicular to bike). Also fit your clutch side cover WITHOUT the water pump sitting in the cover. Then when refitting water pump make sure the drive pin is indexed to the cutout in the crankshaft as it goes on.

Where are you retro? If we know your location it would be easier to advise.

No cutting/soldering needed. Trace your original kill wires back - one has an eye connector and is earthed to the frame. The other goes to the CDI. It has a male bullet connector and joins to a very short wire coming from the CDI (black and white). Your new Magnetic Lanyard Kill switch (if it is Leonelli, or Jitsie branded Leonelli) will have an eye connector - just swap with the one you take off, and probably a Female Bullet connector. Just grab a set of needle nose pliers or similar and "roll" the female bullet connector end a little bit, folding one flap inside the other. You want to basically turn this female end into a male end so it will fit in the existing connector on the GG CDI. it is a very very simple task. Insert your new "male" plug on the new kill switch into the female connector on the CDI, screw the button down onto the appropriate place on the handlebars and test. NOTE: Be careful when reinstalling your fuel tank, that your throttle cable routing is clean, and free of obstructions, and the throttle tube and cable return properly. Seen a few WHISKY throttles from people hooking up the throttle cable with the fuel petcock or similar.

Agree Braktec and AJP internals the same. Look elsewhere for your stiff clutch. Did anyone put DOT4 in your mineral clutch and swell the seals perhaps? Or plate fibres too thick.

The Gas Gas Part number is BT27922001 If you search the net by the part number you will find them for sale. One here: LINK, but there are others if you search that number. There is also repair kits still available. oni nou you may have tried to fit the bigger AJP repair kit, the HEBO pistons are slightly smaller but still available.

It should spin very freely.

I would say the smaller OD springs are for the 40mm Aluminium upper fork legged Marzochhi's, (found on later model Gas Gas and Scorpa SY's) because they have a reduced diameter in the section between the triple clamp uppers and lowers. Hence a narrow OD spring would be used. The larger OD springs would be from an earlier Marzochhi set with Steel uppers that were a consistant 40mm OD all the way up the tube. Looking on the Jitsie label it does not specify which set of Marzochhi forks they are for, so there is the mistake I would guess.

The bearing MT31000CT2811 is used both sides. This bearing has the seal only on one side (facing the crank) The bearing when installed on the left engine case (ignition side) must have the lubrication hole lined up with the corresponding lubrication channel. There is a small mark on the case for this purpose. This is because this left side bearing is lubricated by oil being fed into the space behind it, and then evacuated (with the help of centrifugal force of the spinning bearing) through this hole and dumped into the channel that falls directly down onto the magnetic sump plug. The right side crank bearing can be installed at any rotation as the hole is not required to evacuate lubricant. It is fed from the outside. Best way to install those bearings is to heat the crankcase half (we have a small oven in the workshop that is perfect for this ), and pop the bearing into the freezer for a bit. Makes installation a breeze.

Yes loose or worn bash plate and/or engine bolts and/or bushes are the culprit. As the bash plate is an integral part of the frame forming a structural "hoop" around the engine. Break the strength of that "hoop" by having a loose section and the frame flexes, and that load is transferred elsewhere, and the bottom engine mount gets loaded badly especially on big suspension compressions. I have seen a few of these over the years in our workshop and everyone had loose or worn bolts, or missing bash plate bushes with just a nylock nut or something else in its place. Seems a little thing, but it can have big consequences.

Biff' Even if it is more than the shear pin across the top hat you dont need to split cases on a 14. It has the new mod that lets you pull the shift shaft out the right hand case. The shaft is supported by a sealed bearing in the case body, and retained by a small bolt and washer. it is a snack to get out now. And I'll second the fact that the pins can bend but not shear. I would personally replace it, but i can see how it could be straightened.

Voltage regulator. You do need it. velcro and/or cable tie it back somewhere secure. The aluminium mounting bracket can break , but unit can still work. Same part found on Gas Gas (PART # L310001)

Probably no freeplay at the lever. If you are applying any pressure at all on the piston with the lever actuating rod, then you have probably have blocked the transfer port from piston to reservoir and will never be able to bleed it. YOU MUST HAVE SOME FREE PLAY AT THE LEVER. check out this link for an explanation of the piston position: https://thehellteam.wordpress.com/2015/07/10/trial-master-cylinder-and-lever-setup/

They are around, but dealers aren't allowed to "spruke" or sell their products on here, or they can get banned. If you google/search by the thermostats part number JT0902591 a number of suppliers will come up who have stock.

Throw the ring away, and get a new circlip. The ring would hold the piston in too deep in the bore and block the transfer port. Make sure you have some free play on the lever as well or the same problem will happen. This is critical to the proper operation of AJP master cylinders.

S3 make a low compression insert for the cylinder head that softens off the power delivery, and they also make a flywheel weight for that bike. Do those two mods, and it would tame it very significantly. Or if you wanted to go further a Domino slow throttle (black tube) and a thicker base gasket would turn it into a pussycat!

This is another great effort from Aussies Lewis and Alex - Rollin with the Nolan 2. http://youtu.be/qcKyIbF6nXI

The spring pre-load is adjusted using the hex nut (22mm) on the RIGHT HAND fork leg. counter clockwise - less pre-load. clockwise - more pre-load. Central brass screw right leg (brass) - Rebound adjuster Central brass screw left leg (brass) - Compression adjuster Image Here: LINK

What a fantastic article and very true to the man. I was actually at Piber's house the day that Jordi Pascuet rode the waterfall (twice) - first time he was a little slow and ended up with wet feet! Second time was perfect - lots of laughs all round. Thanks so much for the great work you do with your site, and the depth you have gone to, showing such dedication and hard work for the benefit of Trials riders around the globe. Well done, and a fine read. Narcis next?

Download this from the Hell Team tech page and read it BEFORE you do anything. Specifically the Dellorto carb manual. It will give you a good understanding of how a carb actually works - then you will know what to blow out, and more importantly WHY. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/day2hdj2qwmewsm/AACZ_wRKN-1lwzo3FU-Jb89sa/Carb%20tuning%20info?dl=0 It's incredibly straight forward once you understand how they work. No rocket science or black art needed.

There is a specific Keihin inlet manifold/red block available as a OEM part. (part #2303321) Apart from the PWK carb, the parts required are throttle cable, and this inlet manifold/reed block.

Neutral

The Gas Gas Fibre discs fit, totally interchangeable, but the Gas Gas Steel discs do NOT. (distance between "posts" is different). You can source the Steels from a JGAS dealer/importer or S3 also have them. The JGAS steels standard are 1.5mm and the Gas Gas ones are 2mm now days, so it takes a bit of fiddling with plates if you want to use GG fibres and get your clutch stack height correct.