arnoux

RACING and GP spec non homologated Gassers are now standard with 48 pilot (up from the 45 of a few years ago)

What year, model? Is it a battery model? You may need to charge or swap out the battery found in the top of the airbox.

Definitive is as per the user manual (below), but your TRS dealer may be able to offer up an alternative. We have had very good results with GRO Extreme 75w

A standard 2011 TXT Pro, Racing or RAGA it is a mineral oil system. (and has been that way since 2004) It has had the incorrect Cap and/or Master cylinder put on it at some stage. Even though the master cylinder pistons look identical, the seal material is different. For the mineral oil kit the Gas Gas Part number is BT460102811 And the manufacturers (Braktec) Part number is 150.00.602C

Dot 4 will swell the seals in a mineral oil system. You will need a new Clutch M/C kit (mineral oil version), two new slave cylinder seals and a flush of the lines to get all that DOT4 out. If it has the original AJP M/C cap, it will be green, not black, and say "WARNING Use Mineral oil" on the top.

There is actually two thicknesses of Belville springs, but you would have the thinner one (1.5mm) in a 2014 bike. Part number MT280632015 There was a 1.7mm spring that is part number MT280232015 that was used from 2002 to 2005 Still used by some riders who favour the greater clamping force.

It should not be like that. The Batteryless kit needs a completely new version of the Software installed, and the TPS and Gear selector recalibrate. Just check it has OEM_250 (or 300) V2.00.Biker110_Vertigo#170(Biker110#320).WnjTwr installed Did you do the installation?

If you get an OKO carb spring (they are a copy of the Keihin) they are significantly stiffer than the Keihin spring. It's a good and easy conversion.

Kickstart shaft support bearings / bushes flogged out.

Have you tried Googling the part number? Water pump shaft is 1502867

When you reinstall the Kickstarter you need to pre tension the spring. Do this when you replace the clutch side cover. Place the cover back over the kick start shaft and align it with the engine case, but dont push it all the way home. You want about a 7 or 8mm gap between the clutch cover and it's mating surface on the engine casing. Now put the kick start lever back on the shaft and rotate it anti clockwise until the lever touches the footpeg, hold it there and then push the clutch side case all the way home. It basically rotates the tang on the kick start return spring passed the kick start stop you just fixed. Then when you push the case home and release the spring it comes back against that stop and is under tension. The kick start lever will now return once you kick it over. Sorry I have made it sound a little complex, but it is not. Also do this with the clutch basket out, you can fit that later, and it makes it easier to see what you are doing.

They are producing bikes. I saw a production line with bikes being built, parts being shipped, and people working. Oriol Noguera was there testing a bike, and it seemed to be business as usual. I was only there for a few minutes, and didn't see Josep around, but it was definitely a hive of activity.

Absolutely no need to remove engine to change the seal. You can remove rear brake pedal to make it easier, but the clutch side case will come off with the engine in the frame. The water pump is mounted in this.

Have you checked the flywheel key? If this has sheared it would cause these symptoms. You have fuel, you have spark, but if the key has sheared, and the flywheel has rotated it could be firing in who knows where in the combustion cycle. Hence the no start issue. Pull the gear lever, then ignition cover. Remove the flywheel retaining bolt (19mm socket) and the flywheel (27 x 1 puller RH thread) and check. You cannot check it properly without removing the flywheel.

When you use a vacuum bleeder (by far the best way IMHO) you will always see air bubbles in a transparent line. It's pulling a little air from between the seal of the bleeder and the tube. So don't worry about it - you will never see clear fluid in the transparent line. But it will bleed heaps faster than ANY other method. You can purchase cheap plastic bleeder kits from EvilBay for not much, but after doing 100's of brakes over the years I can advise get one of the brass bodied pistol grip types. It is one of the best tools in our workshop, and so fast and easy. We have one in the workshop, and one in the van at events, and they are GOLD.

The Hebo four pot calliper kits ARE available again. I just got some in a recent Gas Gas order. They were obsolete for a while, but now Braktec are making them again. You can get just the seals, or the kit with seals and pistons.

If they are 38mm Paoili then Heavy Duty springs are available easily. (but Gas Gas only used these forks for a short time), if they are 38mm Gas Gas forks it's a bit harder. You can definitely put 40mm triple trees and forks on. The headstem length / bearing combo is the same from the first Pro in 2002 right to present.

This GET system can not be retro fitted to pre 2018 bikes. It's a relatively easy install and works very well. For anyone wanting a closer look the GET App is a free download from the ITunes Store and other places, (search WiGET) and there is a demo mode and manual available within the app, so you can tool around on a "virtual" bike to see how it works. It offers diagnostics, hour meter, tuning and a bunch of other stuff. We have only had the units for a couple of weeks, but it seems clear and simple. The Fuel and ignition tuning has parameters both + and - so in theory you can't lean it out to detonation levels, or do anything stupid.

Yes it is still in Bescano just in the hills outside Girona. (was there last week). Overlooks the Gas Gas Factory below.

You need to undo the M8 bolt on the rear of the crankcase behind the kickstarter. You can access this from the LEFT side of the bike with a long T Bar. It's a gold/brass colour (zinc anodisied) Then refit side case, preload kickstarter by turning it counter clockwise with the kick arm, hold it there, and then turn that bolt fully back home. Then your done.

Gas Gas front fender and fork brace bolt onto the EVO and offer a far superior guard that flexes and doesn't SNAP. Looks good too! Very common fix with Beta riders around here.

VIN number gives manufacturer, model, capacity, and build date

2mm

http://www.morinifrancousa.com/models.htm

Why don't you ask them heffergm. There contact info is: info@offroadaction.net