arnoux

Nuh sorry mate Australia. But just to give you a heads up you can get Gasser steels in 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6mm, 1.75mm and 2mm. You should be able to find a UK supplier if necessary.

I've got 1.75mm ones in stock if that helps.

300cc 2015

I'd agree with Dabster, the stators (and the rest of the ignition system) are super reliable on these Gasser. I would be surprised if that was it.

Only difference is graphics they are all Airoh TRR

VIN says built December 2013, so it is a 2014 model. Engine numbers do not match frame numbers with GasGas Bikes.

Yes as Lineaway said, check you are using MT280344001 which is the case gasket from 2003 onwards (hence the 3 in the part number) Not MT280244001 which was the 2002 gasket. (almost the same, but not quite). MT280344001 fits 2003 to 2020

The easiest way is to us the centre bolt as the lever. Undo the centre bolt that holds the kicker onto the kick start shaft a couple of turns (and you will need to juggle the amount of turns out to get the correct amount of leverage), now fold the lever out towards the position you would kick start the bike. The knuckle part of the lever should now come in contact with the centre bolt head, as you keep folding the lever out, it will draw the kickstart knuckle along the shaft and off. Sometime it will need a small tap on the inside of the kick arm to help it break free. Done hundreds of bikes lie this in the workshop - works every time. Just juggle the amount of "out" on that bolt head to get the sweet spot.

2012 Gas Gas TXT 250cc, built in September 2011

Also as Huski mentioned there is two very slightly different piston sizes. The kits look identical but there is a difference. AJP Master cylinder used on Gas Gas bikes up to 2012 used a 9.48mm piston, Gas Gas Part number BT280222220 Then with the introduction of the new AJP unit construction master cylinder the piston size slimmed to 9.38mm Gas Gas Part number BT280222220/2 And then again when Braktec took over the AJP construction it reverted to the earlier 9.48mm piston size. Very confusing! You can usually tell the smaller 9.38mm pistons as they are a raw aluminium finish. The bigger 9.48mm ones are coated and are usually a bronzy to brown finish.

It could be the reservoir port hole is blocked. Do you have some freeplay on the actuating rod? If the piston isn't being allowed to return all the way, then the reservoir port hole is either fully or partially blocked, and you won't be able to bleed it in a month of Sunday! You must have some air gap between the piston and the actuating rod. Same deal on front master cylinders. It is by far the most common problem we see in the workshop with trials bikes. So many people think the actuating pin somehow affect clutch or brake take up point, but it is not for that. It should be set so there is 1mm or so freeplay when in it's relaxed position. Please check that first before moving on. The actuating pin on the rear brake lever can be adjusted for length by undoing the jam nut (10mm open ended wrench) and screwing the rod into the brake lever. until some freeplay is achieved. This allows the piston to go all the way back in the piston port, and opens the bleed port from the reservoir into the system.

Maybe use the contact page of Gas Gas UK, or call or email Gas Gas UK, you can obviously do that as you have filled out the Trials Central Forum post and submitted it. They will be able to help and get the order going whilst you are away. Support your trials businesses so they are still in business when this thing runs it course.

Just knock the piece IN if it is still in the case. Don't Freak out! The piece will fall into the hollow of the gearbox primary shaft, so do not be concerned, it cannot get out into the gearbox proper and cause any damage. The Gearbox breather that you broke is part of an air passage through the hollow main shaft, and through the hollow clutch retaining bolt. This allows the gearbox to remain at atmospheric pressure, without losing gearbox oil. It's a convoluted route, but it works. That little piece you have broken off is too big to pass through the clutch retaining bolt hole, and you are not going to get it out of the breather hole in the left case. The only way to retrieve it is pull the motor, and split the cases. BUT you don't need to do that. It will just rumble around in the little hollow in the primary shaft. Just put a new "L" Shaped breather back in and away you go. (I am a Gas Gas Importer, and have worked on tonnes of these motors, it is not a big deal this one) Even if you took the clutch retaining bolt out, I suspect it would still be too big to come out the threaded hole, so put it on the list of things to do, if you ever have to split the cases.

2M Carbon https://www.2mparts.com/

These bikes are jetted way too rich from standard with the Dellorto PHBG 21 carby Lift the clip on the needle to the top position. (so leaning the needle as much as possible). You will find the pilot jet is size 50 standard. They are much better with 42.5 (45 is OK but still a tad too rich) Main jet should be 100 This works perfectly with Australian fuel 95 Octane.

No better off using gear oil! Change out your water pump seal and shaft.

Yes they still have these two parts on the 2020 bikes, and all previous models. It is still the same part numbers. Your dealer may be out of stock, but they are definitely not obsolete or superseded part numbers.

Jam the butt of your hand over the tail pipe opening. No need to take the glove off that takes to long. On modern 2T's the end of the pipe is never that hot, even if you have only a thin glove on. Try it sometime on your bike so you get the feel of what to do, when it is not in full "Chainsaw mode". If you are not wearing gloves, use the sole of your boot. Stops it in a few seconds. Saved quite a few bikes with this method - it's fast, and it stops them pretty quick if you create a good seal.

DOT4

You can change it to 19 parts no problem, The 2018-19 Racing Bellville spring is 1.2mm, yours id 1.5mm. The part number is: MT22020GG-CGI-1 Make sure you get that one and not a 19 CONTACT Spring, as that is still 1.5mm The clutch friction material is also different on the 19 to your 14, it is a kevlar material. It makes a difference to the "bite', but not the softness of the lever pull. The clutch pre-load plate is different as well. 19 is adjustable and has 3 positions to choose from. Part number MT22030GG-CNW-1

Hi Here is the breakdown 1. From the stator you have one yellow wire that branches into 3 female spade connectors. This is power for the regulator, the rectifier, and the headlight. 2. A brown wire with a eye connector - this is earth to frame (usually connected to the coil mount bolt) 3. Two wires bound together - one brown with eye connector (same earth mount as above to coil), and one red and white with female spade connector - to coil. 4. One short black and white with female bullet coming from the back of the plug - this connects to your kill switch. 5. Two wires about 45mm long (one from the plug, one directly from the stator) - first one red /yellow with female bullet connector, and one brown with male bullet connector. These are the MAP switch. Connect to MAP switch, OR leave unconnected for MAP1, or connect together for MAP2. That’s it! cheers

What triple clamps are you using there John?

Huski That is not true Huski. The cylinders are not the same, the cylinder heads are not the same. The base gaskets are not the same, Only some of the pistons and little end bearings are interchangeable. The friction plates in the clutch are the same dimensions, but the steels are not. Very very few parts the same in both motors.

The original actuating was cable when that motor was fitted to the YAMAHA TYZ. (part # 4GG-16380-00) The part was modified at Scorpa to make it work with the Hydraulic slave cylinder. The Cable attachment was removed from the end and a cylinder with a threaded centre was welded on the end. (it then became Scorpa part 3150) As Breagh states they were never that strong and the end often got damaged, cracked or broke off. The original Yamaha part is still available, so I would think the best solution is to re-kit your existing Slave cylinder (it uses the same DOT4 9.5mm piston and seals as lots of other AJP Brake Master Cylinders - it just uses a shorter spring, which you can use from the original cylinder), and weld a new adjuster threaded piece to the end like Scorpa originally did. If you go cable you would need the Yamaha actuating arm anyway, but you would also require the cable and a new lever and perch, so a result that is not as nice as the original.

There is TWO seals. One to seal the coolant from exiting the pump, and the other on the shaft to seal the oil in the case and not contaminate the coolant. Both same size but different part numbers as one is NBR and the other Viton. In the little cavity between the two seals is a small hole that exits just below the water pump. (7 o'clock if you are looking straight at it). This allows coolant or oil to exit if either seal is compromised. As there is no "expansion tank" in the coolant system, I have found if you fill the radiator all the way to the top this can happen. The pressure relief valve on the top of the radiator sometimes gets a bit crusty or blocked a little and won't blow off completely, so the only other way for the system to relieve pressure is blowing past the WP seal and out that little hole. Before changinging seals make sure your coolant level is not right up to the top (I leave about 8 -10 mm gap - about half way up the top tank above the fins) and get that little pressure relief valve out and give it a good clean up. It may be OK.