arnoux

There is two seals in the Master Cylinder. So you can have a knackered internal seal (the one that actually does the work), but if the outside seal is still good you will not see any leaks. Commonly there is two small holes in the reservoir tank base. One supplies the oil to the hydraulic line, and hence it supplies the force on the slave. The other is just there to lubricate the body of the piston, so supplies a little oil between the outside and inside seals as a way of reducing friction between the piston and the bore. If that internal seal leaks - the fluid will bypass slightly and end up back in the reservoir instead of pushing on the slave 100%. Very very common issue on all AJP, Gremica and Braktec seals as they age.

CHASSIS#explanation.pdf

It's unlikely it will be the clutch plates. Much more likely it needs Master cylinder, and/or slave cylinder seal kit. When the seals are knackered it bypasses oil past the damaged seal and then doesn't push the clutch plates apart far enough to get full disengagement. Hence the drag. Should be a relatively cheap fix.

The part number is R310104, if you search by that part number you will find stockists (they still exist )!

Check you actually had coolant in it, and the fan / thermostat are working. The water pump impellers very rarely fail on Gas Gas. The shafts and seals wear allowing bypass of coolant into the gearbox, but this you can tell super easy by the condition of the oil in the sight glass. if coolant is leaking past the seal the oil will go milky and not stay transparent. That sort of nip up around the exhaust port (the hottest part of the combustion chamber) is a classic case of the fan probably not operational, and the bike was running hot, or it had little or no coolant in the system. Get you cylinder re coated, chuck a new slug in it, but test that thermo switch is working, and when it switches the fan is coming on. If everything is working as it should you can "pin it" up any hill!

https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html

This has to be taken into account with the other parts that have changed though. Mainly the Belville spring thickness, and the pre-load plate (with the 10 screws) that clamps down on the said spring. Early bikes had a 1.7mm thick spring, MT280232015. Then in 2006 Gas Gas went to a 1.5mm spring MT2806320015, then in 2015 they went to a 1.2mm thick spring MT22020GG-CGI-1, all affecting the clutch action. There is also different pre-load plates. It is not just the combined stack height that affects clutch action.

Unfortunately I am out now too. I have the piston pucks, but no rubber seals left, sorry.

The 3 different positions adjust the amount of preload on the Bellville spring. You want to be in the greatest pre-load position, so clamping down on the plates firmer. The 2020 has a 1.2mm Bellville. Earlier bikes had 1.5mm and even 1.7mm on the first years of the Pro motor. So clamped harder, and released harder, but at the slight expense of a stiffer lever. The 2020 is very light. Check you combined plate height. You want the 5 plates to be up around 9.98 - 10mm, this gives you the maximum pre-load on the spring. See how you go with that, and if you want it more aggressive get a 1.5mm Bellville to try.

As above, just pull the Airbox, and fuel tank, then remove the radiator to give you a bit more room, and then the top end can be removed quite easily.

Non standard finish on the fork springs, stock ones are not painted. These files may help you with parts numbers. GAS GAS RAGA aluminum 06.pdf Marzochhi forks Parts.pdf

If you search by Part numbers you will find a supplier. Try BIT050620007 this is for a 2006 model or BIT05052007 this is for a 2005 model (just the seventh digit changes to reflect the year it was current for, so try 4, 7 etc etc - whatever year you specifically need to make the stickers match. Also some early years were blue plastics, then they went to red) They are the same plastics just different stickers and will fit all BOY50 from 2002 onwards.

Yes we have been trying to source these for some time. Off Road Action (Jitsie) used to stock them but haven't had anything for well over 18 months now. Probably can't see that supply returning.

Use the same process. Put the crank in the freezer for a bit, and warm the case half in the oven. Then some grease on the inner face of the bearing and O ring, and it will slip straight in. No need to use tape or anything else.

Kirk there is a plug on the headlight wires, just undo that and you are good to go. You wont need it, but you can download the owner's manual, and the electrical schematic is on page 41.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I_EfGh-kGxYqyZ3VrHGzuvGOfLs8IqgP/view?usp=sharing

The Gas Gas part number is M01217001, use that to search and you will find them. TIP: Download the parts manual for your bike and use the part numbers to search by, not a description, you will have much better results.

Agree with Nigel, usually a May build for the premium model. Hence Shirty not knowing any details yet. So down here in Australia we would traditionally see the GP (or thr RAGA, or Factory Replica) in July for sale. That has been the case for the last 10 - 12 years but KTM may change that scheduling, who knows. ..........They haven't changed much else :-)

Gas Gas now make a blank rear guard and a generic sticker kit that covers 2002 - 2010 bikes. As some of the individual year stickers are getting obsolete they designed a set that covers this complete period. They are good sets. This is the part number for the complete kit: BT95000CT-BGI-1 Rear guard sticker only: BT95003CT-BGI-1 And the blank rear guard: BT280220007 Search these part numbers and you will find what you need. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote from website: Gas Gas no longer sell individual sticker, or sticker sets specifically for older bikes pre 2010, but they have designed a generic sticker "set" that work on this range of bikes roughly designed around the mid 2000's graphics. You can purchase the following "RED" sets: BT95002CT-BGI-1: PERIPHERAL RED STICKERS KIT TXT PRO 2002-2010 Contains the following - Forks, Front Mudguard, Headlight, Frame Logo, Frame boot protectors, swingarm (2) BT95001CT-BGI-1: CENTRAL RED STICKERS KIT TXT PRO 2002-2010 Contains the following - Tank, Frame infills, Airbox top, seat, side "boomerangs". BT95003CT-BGI-1: REAR FENDER RED STICKER TXT PRO 2002-2010 Contains the following - Rear Fender BT95000CT-BGI-1: STICKER KIT RED TXT PRO 2002-2010 Full sticker set, contains the 3 above kits combined into one full set. The Full sticker set is also available in a more predominantly "White" set that suits the 2010 bikes BT95000CT-BKX-1 STICKER KIT WHITE TXT PRO 2002-2010

Did you index the quadrant gear into the correct position when you put it on the shaft? Here is a reference. Kickstart assembly installation instructions.pdf

BT761053013

Shafts are not "poor quality" they run at crankshaft speed so both should be replaced at the same time as the seal. RULE: if you replace seal do the shaft at the same time. And do not fill radiator right up to the top. There is no "expansion tanks" in this cooling system so leave 8-10mm air gap in the top header tank to allow for that "expansion" as it warms up and it will be fine. Top it all the way up and that few mls will just either blow out the pressure relief valve, or past that worn shaft in your case (which is easier - but it will go out of one or the other)!

I believe the Gas Gas Part number for the cable is: EM10225TT-CLR-1

There is an OBD connection port with a JST plug from 2018 bikes onwards. Black plug, right hand side, near frame rail middle of tank area. Should have a blanking plug in it. You need the Leonelli cable that goes from the JST plug on the bike to the OBD cable on the reader to make it work though.

Hi Sting32 I think this is the image you may have been referencing. It is a little inaccurate because it doesn't show the shift discs engaged in the correct positions, it just shows the drive sequence. You are correct - gears are always in constant mesh, it is the shift discs that are moving and creating the drive sequence. But from memory the 4 to 5th change all 3 disc are moving and need to relocate into the appropriate gears, hence the 'tougher' shift in the Gasser boxes in some gears and not others. Some changes only one or two discs are moving. It is a great gearbox design, just needs to be understood that you can't be hamfisted with it. Saying that a clunky change is understandable knowing the mechanics of it, but it shouldn't be 'grinding' - that sounds like big bits of metal are being turned into small bits of metal!