arnoux

I google translated that into English and I still have no idea what he is talking about!!!!! "Clutch Lever Flexibility Hello everyone . On my 2004 250 xt I saw that there were no springs but a "plate" spring. I find it a bit harsh. Is there a less tough board? THANKS ."

Just my take on bleeding Trials brakes (and we do a lot of them as I have a bike business) is that you are way better "pulling" the fluid through at the rear bleeder screw, than pushing it through like you are. If you have air behind the caliper pucks pushing fluid in does not clear that. The fluid takes the path of least resistance and goes from the bleeder straight to the reservoir. Much better having the reservoir cap off, fluid level full, and draw the fluid through the system, this then draws out any air bubbles deep in the calliper. I have always found this a much better way to bleed rear brakes. Couple of notes: always make sure you have a little freeplay on the actuating rod, so the piston comes all the way down. That makes a clear path from piston bore to reservoir. Try and use a vacuum bleeder for the best results, but a syringe works also, just not as efficiently. And don't worry about seeing bubbles in your tube from the bleeder. When doing this method you will always get some air draw from around the bleeder. Just pull a full reservoir of fluid through and that should be sufficient.

If the 10th character is M it is a 2021 bike.CHASSIS#EUROPEAN VIN description (GasGas by Torrot).pdf

They are a Torx 100 to remove the bungs.

S3 make a specific one for the Jotagas Hidria Flywheel weight. This is it; https://www.thehellteam.com/s3-flywheel-weights-for-gg-idria-3539

The Braktec Part number is: 853005MO0 The GasGas Part number is: BT460103013CT

Lower of the 3 water pump mount bolts. it has a copper sealing washer on it.

You can actually use a flywheel from a 250/280/300 - it is substantially heavier than the 125 one. Only thing that needs to be done is the spacer removed from the sensor to set it back outboard to accommodate the bigger flywheel, but that is all. Same stator, same cover etc etc. Personally I don't think it "improves" the 125, just makes it doughy, but it's easily done.

Yes it is possible to change. The self retracting side stand uses a shorter spring and a small what I could only describe as an "elongated kidney" shaped piece of flat metal. This changes the pivot point so the stand always want to retract. These two pieces need to be replaced with the earlier spring part number: BT14250GG-CAT-1 It is a longer spring. I am pretty sure one of the cup head bolts that holds the side stand bracket needs to be changed for a button head so it sits flusher as well. This allows the longer spring to rotate across the top of it and then the side stand will stay in the down position when put there. it then must be manually retracted. The folding stand is original on the Euro homologated versions of the bike, and the non returning stand was original on USA spec bikes (sold in USA, Australia, Japan etc etc).

Keihin is a Japanese company, so if you have a Chinese "Keihin" I suspect you have a cheap knock off.

We sell AlpineStars, Forma and Hebo, and I have some experience with Gaerne. I've fitted a lot of boots over the years and at least these days you have a choice of some really well constructed, purpose built boots from a number of quality manufacturers. The Formas have the biggest toe box area of all the boots, and are a good boot for the price. Sole material is good, and the welt stitching is good. Full leather uppers. They are a little heavy as they are genuine leather and are higher than most other brands up the shin. (good for most people). The interior lining is basic but functional. They are made up to size 48 . I have wide feet and a high arch and they are my boot of choice for fit alone. The AStars are good quality construction, but quite a bit more expensive than the Forma. They are shorter in the length of the shin protection. Not quite as wide as the Forma, and a little lower in the arch area than the Forma, but definitely not a narrow boot. They are not 100% leather uppers, there is a fair bit of "vegan" leather as well, but this does make the boot lighter. Very solid buckle closures. They do make up to a EURO 48 as well. Good quality liner that allows the boot to slip on easily. Hebo - there is quite a variety in Hebo boots so a little harder to quantify. They make the "Technical" boot is full grain leather (more robust in my opinion) or synthetic leather. The Synthetic options are lighter, leather heavier. I think if broken in properly the full leather upper moulds to your foot shape better. The "Technical" boot is again quite short. It has a very nice lining and the boot goes on easily. Both the Forma and AStars have a three buckle closure, the Hebo uses a two buckle and "powerStrap" system which is very nice. Medium to wide fit very similar to AlpineStars. Hebo also do a taller boot with BOA closure, the TECH COMP. Very good boot but divides opinions with the BOA system. Very fast to get out of, a bit slower to get into. Great lining and sole, and a bit higher than the Technical model. All again up to size 48. All of them are a welt sole construction, so soles can be replaced, and all of them have replaceable buckles. I'd suggest trying on as many as you can, what one bloke says is brilliant (for his shaped feet), can be absolute poison for the next guy. We all have different shaped feet and expect different things from the boots. Hope that helps a little bit.

You might be better off searching by the 2012 part numbers (T30C numbers are a lot later). 2012 Manuals can be downloaded from TECH SUPPORT section of thehellteam.com

Villiers Starmaker 250, and probably others before that.

Any airbox from 2011 until 2022 will suffice, but like Faussy said the carbon airboxes used three screws to hold the lid on, the plastic airboxes used a lid with hooks and one screw, so you will need the matching plastic airbox lid.

Can I ask how are you re-charging the battery? Are you using a Lithium battery specific Charger, or charging from just running the bike. And if using a charger how are you connecting it, as there is a relay within the battery "box", so you have to make the connection on the battery side of the relay, not on the bike side.

Hi Gary You need to split the cases, and remove the LHS Main Bearing to gain access to that seal. Once the LHS crank main bearing is removed you can get that seal out by pressing it towards the centre line of the bike. They do not come out together.

Just from personal experience I would put your crank in the left hand case (not in the right hand one where you currently have it). Put the primary drive gear on the right hand side, and fit the circlip, so at least then you know that the crank assembly is "home". Put the gear set in Neutral to do all this. Also put the engine dowel pins in the RHS case. (not the left where you have them). This allows you to fit the gasket on the right hand side case properly. Then you are just placing the left hand side case over the RHS like a cap. As you lower it down make sure the kick start spring goes into the appropriate hole in the case, then it should just drop down until the last few millimetres when the left hand side of the crank is seating into the LHS main bearing. It may need a gentle tap then just to fit this flush, but it is usually not much.

There is two seals in the Master Cylinder. So you can have a knackered internal seal (the one that actually does the work), but if the outside seal is still good you will not see any leaks. Commonly there is two small holes in the reservoir tank base. One supplies the oil to the hydraulic line, and hence it supplies the force on the slave. The other is just there to lubricate the body of the piston, so supplies a little oil between the outside and inside seals as a way of reducing friction between the piston and the bore. If that internal seal leaks - the fluid will bypass slightly and end up back in the reservoir instead of pushing on the slave 100%. Very very common issue on all AJP, Gremica and Braktec seals as they age.

CHASSIS#explanation.pdf

It's unlikely it will be the clutch plates. Much more likely it needs Master cylinder, and/or slave cylinder seal kit. When the seals are knackered it bypasses oil past the damaged seal and then doesn't push the clutch plates apart far enough to get full disengagement. Hence the drag. Should be a relatively cheap fix.

The part number is R310104, if you search by that part number you will find stockists (they still exist )!

Check you actually had coolant in it, and the fan / thermostat are working. The water pump impellers very rarely fail on Gas Gas. The shafts and seals wear allowing bypass of coolant into the gearbox, but this you can tell super easy by the condition of the oil in the sight glass. if coolant is leaking past the seal the oil will go milky and not stay transparent. That sort of nip up around the exhaust port (the hottest part of the combustion chamber) is a classic case of the fan probably not operational, and the bike was running hot, or it had little or no coolant in the system. Get you cylinder re coated, chuck a new slug in it, but test that thermo switch is working, and when it switches the fan is coming on. If everything is working as it should you can "pin it" up any hill!

https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html

This has to be taken into account with the other parts that have changed though. Mainly the Belville spring thickness, and the pre-load plate (with the 10 screws) that clamps down on the said spring. Early bikes had a 1.7mm thick spring, MT280232015. Then in 2006 Gas Gas went to a 1.5mm spring MT2806320015, then in 2015 they went to a 1.2mm thick spring MT22020GG-CGI-1, all affecting the clutch action. There is also different pre-load plates. It is not just the combined stack height that affects clutch action.