deonattard

I don't think anything that would effect starting has changed from 2011 to 2013 other than the maps and I'm not even sure if they have much bearing on starting. I feel the biggest issue is priming the fuel pump when cold - that requires several seconds power. If your bike starts fine then by all means leave the battery off. I must have about 20 hours on my bike by now and I wouldn't mind trying it again without the battery, but the battery does mean the bike only needs a lazy kick. My father managed to balance his, kick it and ride off last weekend without putting a foot down - he'd never be able to do that without the battery, in fact he can barely start the bike without the battery as he has trouble kicking it well enough being relatively short and very light. Most owners I know have at some point experienced starting issues, the battery solves all of them although you must exercise a little care not to flood the engine. I always prime the kick starter before you turn the battery on - since doing this, I havn't flooded the engine.

The pegs are in a different position between 2011 and 2012 model - I'm unsure if there is any other geometry changes or if the change is just in the lower cast section of the frame.

I was unwilling to perform any modifications.

I can tell you the Raptor ones don't fit a 2012 bike as I bought them and unfortunately had to return when they didn't fit. That was quite recently, I'm unsure if they've since rectified the issue. I think S3 have a model that fit. The standard pegs are pretty good though, they were actually quite a lot lighter than the Raptor Titanium ones which was a bit of a surprise. Let us know if you find something suitable that definitely fit. You need to ensure the pegs are suitable for your year of bike as some pegs that fit the 2011 bike don't work on the 2012 model.

Its called a C Spanner or sometimes a Hook Spanner. Here is what looks like a nice one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRAPER-ADJUSTABLE-C-SPANNER-1-1-4-3-hook-wrench-/320955661371?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4aba72bc3b Alternately motorbike shops or performance car places that sell coil-over shocks would have them available.

kbtrials - the clutch cover change I believe is referring to the oil filler neck, notice the oil is very slow to fill when you pour it in? I think they've just opened that up so you can fill it quicker. No big deal. Have you changed the oil yet? Apparantly the factory guys had 3 different clutch packs that they use depending on the conditions. Maybe you can get a hold of something more to your liking if required.

Do tell

The battery pack is pretty easy to make up, I think they'll keep it as an after-market part given that its just appeared in the "special parts" catalogue.

Our bikes are still relativey new and we're doing oil changes 4-5 hours. The oil is dirty at that stage, the clutch is also starting to drag a little. The engine design on the ossa is such that the gearbox oil is lubricating the main bearings, I understand this is why they can run at such a lean oil to fuel ratio 110:1 Do you really want bits of worn clutch material in the main bearings of your engine? As the bikes get more hours on them the oil in theory would stay cleaner for longer, I can't see us getting more than 10hrs out of the oil though.

Cambridge Trial Centre had them on ebay, I thought the price was alright but they don't have a shipping option to Australia.

Don't use ATF in your Ossa. The gear box oil is also lubricating the main bearings - even more good reason to keep it clean. Canada280i - the Belray gear saver was next oil on my list to try but the GRO 75W solved the "cold drag" issue I was having so I'm happy to stick with that. I presume you're using the Belray 75w? As such I'm sure you'll have similar results.

How long since you changed the oil, and which oil are you using? I've found the best stuff to be GRO 75W - We're finding it needs changing about every 5hrs - as the bikes bed in we maybe able to run the oil a little longer but its definitely dirty enough to warrant changing at 5hrs at this point in time anyway. Different oil seems to make a big change in the clutch feel, as does fresh oil. I find the clutch starting to drag a bit once the oil is around 5hrs old.

I saw some Jitsie sprockets advertised for Ossa - would they bolt straight up I wonder??

Wishing I'd changed mine earlier. Won't get a chance to drop it out again until next week but I'm quietly hopeful it'll be clean. Dad's bike had much less black rubbish in his but still any is too much...

Yes there is - the one tooth at the front is something like 9% reduction in the gearing. Dad prefers it because the motor is revving more, the bike is harder to stall so he doesn't have to be so quick on the clutch. He can ride it through some sections without covering the clutch, whereas I have one finger on the clutch all the time. Dad still seemed to get up all the big stuff last weekend without going into 2nd gear, bike was just revving a little harder. I prefer the standard gearing myself but Dad is a lot happier with it geared lower. I was a bit worried that the lower gearing might make it a bit angry and agressive to ride but thats not the case, the power delivery is still very smooth and not agressive. The front sprocket I think is the same as a late model Gas Gas. They have them here: http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24_16_75&products_id=442

Taff_d - is that info in the manual? Which page?? Canada280i - the rebound and compression settings are just that, they have no effect on the sag, they just adjust the speed the fork compresses and re-bounds at.

The front sag isn't adjustable without changing hard parts inside the fork. I can't remember what we set the rear at but it was right for me standard at 68kg and it was a little firm for my Dad who is closer to 60kg. Dad would like to increase the sag in his forks but it got too hard as we couldn't find a decent manual for the fork and the closest motorcycle suspension specialist is about 1000km away and we didn't want to ship the forks away..

I think S3 have a compatible sprocket in their catalogue. We've put a 10T front sprocket onto Dad's bike - I prefer the standard gearing myself but he likes it lower so he doesn't have to ride the clutch so much.

I put a support email into GRO with some photos of the coolant, they feel that the engines were most likely poorly cleaned at the factory and that after 1-2 coolant changes it probably won't happen again. They said its been a reasonably common occurance on some brands of new bikes but didn't go into further detail. Sounds logical enough - we'll change my coolant again this week to see how its going as we did a trial on the weekend. Also I have an email from Ossa directly to say they use GRO 30% - I am unsure if that applies to all countries or just Australia.

I wonder if they use the same coolant for Canada as what they use for Australia? Obviously much warmer climate here. The importer says our bikes come with GRO 30%

We just changed Dad's - his bike only has less than 10 hours on it - it looked bright green and all good from the filler cap, but we changed it yesterday since mine had turned so horrible. After it settled, same black sludge in the bottom of the jar. I strongly recommend everyone changes their fluid immediately and I wouldn't follow Ossa's recommendation on the fluid. Buy some good quality stuff suitable for alloy engines and don't dilute it anymore than recommended by the fluid manufacturer. If you capture what comes out into a container then transfer it to a glass jar I think you might get a bit of a shock.

There is the picture of the settled coolant - grey sludge down the bottom - light film of what maybe oil on the top, the stuff on the top is a blue looking colour. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/uploads/gallery_16451_66_1303085.jpg

If it were oil + water, the oil should be floating on top. In my case the "oily looking sludge" has settled to the bottom. Suggesting to me whatever it is, its heavier than water. My guess is that its alloy possibly from the water pump housing. I am waiting on response from Ossa via the importer. I'll try to post another photo of the "settled" water. I'm fairly keen to pull the water pump off to take a look but I have a trial this weekend and I don't have a spare gasket or seal on hand so won't touch it for the time being. I've only ridden the bike for 5 minutes since changing the water and so far it has remained clean but I will be watching it closely.