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johnnyr1

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  1. johnnyr1

    evo main bearings

    The mains are - 6206-2ZC4, originals are SKF and have to be C4 fit and the seals are - 25*35*7 BTSL. Make sure you get the right crank seals! The Beta seals are quite expensive so I used KTM125 SX seals, much cheaper!! They should be part No 0760253570 but do your own homework!
  2. I think it would be really nice if they just fixed the problems it's had for years! After all these years you'd think they could- Space the kickstart out so it didn't hit the frame? Fit a chain tensioner that doesn't wear a massive groove in the swing arm? Redesign the swingarm linkage so you dont have to strip it every month? Stop as much water getting in the airbox? I know I'm in the UK, but fairly sure it rains in Italy to.
  3. johnnyr1

    Tyres

    Can you tell me where you got your Dunlop from please? I've had a look around and they seem to be round about £90. Which is pretty much the same as a Michelin! Am I looking at the wrong tyre or looking in the wrong place?
  4. The bearings I removed from my (owned from new) Evo 250 where 6206-2Z/C4. these are a metal shielded bearing, not a rubber sealed bearing like the part No you quoted! Send them back and get Metal shielded or open, do not use rubber sealed bearings on the crank!
  5. I know it's not quite the same, but when I stripped my '11 evo (owned from new), it came with metal shields in! Recently done a Sherco to, and it had shields as well. Also the shields seal the oil (pre-lubed from manufacturer) into the bearing. Seem to be the modern way!
  6. Just had the same problem with my '11 250 Evo. Strip the master cylinder, my seals were done!
  7. Only one route that day, think it was part of the Normadale series? So, yes, plenty of twinshocks. A battery lasts about 2hrs (I've got 2). Normaly uses about 24Gb for both batteries.
  8. Thanks, yes i just leave it running and try to forget about it!
  9. Short video of the Westmorland Motor Club "Kefty Watson" road trial. One 30 mile lap and 35 sections!! http://youtu.be/kqFmGjhAhhI
  10. johnnyr1

    Evo Rear Brake

    Before you start pushing in or pumping out the calliper pistons remove the master cylinder cap, this will let the pistons move a lot easier! Mine has usually got some water in there as well. You should remove the cap (front and back) whenever your trying to move the pistons more than there normal stroke. Most brakes will squeak if you don’t put any brake grease (copper slip usually) between the piston and back of the pad. I don’t use anything on my bike, to try and stop any crap sticking to it, and put up with the squeak. Hope this helps.
  11. Were pretty lucky up here, most of our trials are big laps like this!! You should make the effort to come and try them, its well worth it!!
  12. A full lap of Bassenthwaite's northern centre championship round on 4th nov 2012. Big video 20mins!!
  13. I think I've tried mine in most places and nearly always end up back to helmet mount, although it is the worst perspective and everything looks flat, it is the only option that "see's what you see", tried it on bike (swingarm fork legs etc) which is great for short clips but the camera is to exposed to do a full trial (maybe ok if your good enough but my s/arm a forks a fairly well battered!!). The chest mount is a better perspectve than the helmet mount but becomes uncomortable very quickly as it need to be on tight.
  14. Some sections from Sunday 25th Nov 2012
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