I think you would be well served to just change the tranny fluid a few times. I have lost the seal on the WP on many bikes, over the years. it seems to take about 3 oil changes after you refil the 1st time. when I have this happen, I used the cheapest ATF for those 3 changes, then I went back to my better (and slightly more $ per quart) yama-lube. But a quart of oil is so cheap, lets not risk the crank bearings running without oil for ANY reason imaginable. But I guess it is your bike. maybe you can blow everything out before you fill and start the engine? I dont know, JSE might tell US, but the bearings dont get pressured oil, they more or less just sit in, below the fill level of the transmission fluids, aka gravity fed or submerged mostly? I dont have one torn down to look at atm, you know..
As it goes ive flushed it through a couple of times with some oil watered down a little with some parrafin. Seems to have taken pretty much all the gunk out.
Ive also got the clutch case off too to replace the water pump seal.
I managed to drill the 2 bolts in the end just enough to release the bolt head from the casing. The threads were fine it was just the bolt head that was stuck so thats a relief i can tell ya!
The water pump seal does look in bad shape tbh and the little spring that goes round the center hole to keep it tight too the shaft is just kinda floating around. There doesnt seem to be any tension on it at all!
Fortunately the shaft it self looks fine so i just ordered a new seal hopefully that'll get here soon!
I took all the clutch plates out too while i was at it and cleaned them up to get all the milky crap off them!
The bike is leant over a bit on its side so with any luck any last remaing dribbles of crap will drip out overnight.
Many thanks for the input on this thread and hopefully i can get this seal fitted and be back up and running soon!
Fan motor tomorrow! Ill update the other thread cos i found the prob!
Squish height has an effect on compression ratio which affects power. The higher the compression the more power but also the more likley you will have pre-ignition (pinging or pinking). Higher compression also makes for harder starting.
If you use too thin a gasket, it might be possible to have negative clearance. In other words, the piston will hit the head. You do not want this to happen. Expensive parts break when the piston hits the head.
Ahh I get it thank you just didn't realise half a mm could make so much difference!
The reason I asked about gasket colour is because Sting referred to the different colours being different thickness. So... I figured if the colour determines the thickness then I could replace mine based on the colour of it.
Right ok is the squish the measurement when: if I lay the cylinder on loosely then bolt it down it's the diff between the rested and bolted position???
I've got no idea there that's literally an educated guess!
I am very mechanically minded I'm not alien to engines just never come across a situation where Ive ahd to measure squish.
I can't be specific but from posts/topics/forums I've looked through it would appear to be the type of fluid in the gearbox. I've read many topics and threads that describe different kinds of clutch performance depending on the oil that's used. Ie the diff between ATF and normal oil and the different weights.
If it were me personally I'd look up the recommended manufacturer oil, try that and go from there.
I have a Ford Cougar and with the rear seats folded I can lay it on its side and get the whole bike in with one side of the handlebar hanging over the side. Ok I can't shut the boot lid but it's only open about 6inch I just strap it down.
The wire that plugs onto the coil unit itself connect the red terminal of your multi meter to it and connect the black to earth, kick it over and see if your getting an AC voltage from that wire.
If there is no AC voltage from that wire then go back to the CDI unit.
Find the wires coming from the stator into the CDI unit connect the muti meter to them in the same way and check for an AC voltage again.
If there is a voltage to the Coil but no spark then the coil is either badly earthed or shot. Or damaged plug cap possibly.
If there is a voltage to the CDI but not the coil then the CDI is shot, or badly earthed.
If there is no voltage to the CDI from the stator then the stator is at fault.
Make sure to disconnect the kill switch and try that first. Leave the kill switch disconnected while you try the rest too just to be sure.
Basically what's happend is ive either landed slightly sideways or slid slightly sideways and popped it off the bead, which has resulted a ride back to the car with a flat tyre!
Is there a way to stop this like some kinda bead glue or something?
Anyone else have this problem?
I'm running the tyre about 7psi given that I'm 12.5 stone.
(that's .48 bar and 79kg for the rest of the world)
Rear tyre that is.
Edit again..
It's also a new Pirelli tyre so it's not like it's old and weak...
Just follow the wires from the kill switch, one of them will almost certainly be bolted to the frame or some earth point. Which ever end of the two wires you find first just disconnect it and try it. All the kill switch does when you press it is complete a circuit to earth to stop the spark. Sometimes the switch may get stuck and permenantly complete the circuit resulting in no spark. By disconnecting one of the wires your guaranteed to have broken the circuit and can rule it out completely.
If that fails then I'd refer to my previous post for things to check.
By the way why do you want to replace the base gasket? You don't need to remove the cylinder head to change orings on the combustion chamber top cap...
Just because it doesn't hurt to have a full fresh set of top end gaskets that was all. For the price of it I figured I might as well while I had spanners in my hand so to speak.
Because I've got milky oil mate and want to flush it. I drained it out and refilled with fresh but it seems there was still some "milk" left behind because it's tainted the fresh stuff.
So wanted to give it a flush out like you would on a car with engine flush.
In my opinion if it had been re coated which is more than plausible it wouldn't take much filing to reveal the numbers. Those numbers generally are punched quite deep and it would take a fair amount of "excessive" filing to make them illegible! Normally when frame numbers bike or car become illegible its for a reason.
First off I would go back to the coil and make sure it's properly earthed. Check the earth wires are secure.
You can also put a multimeter onto the wires that come fom the stator and check that your getting a voltage.
If all the wires are properly secure and you are getting a voltage from the stator then you could possibly narrow it down to the CDI unit. Or it could also be the coil unit.
I'm not sure exactly how to test the coil off the top of my head but I'm sure someone could pipe up and say how.
Well, Tazz, the phraze "get a bigger hammer" definitely doesnt apply to you!
you need to "smack" the impact (hammer driven screwdriver like impact wrench) not sledgehammer or SLAM on them.
the orings, when you put it back together, use a tiny bit of greas to hold them in place, what happens is you turn head over and orings fall out of the grooves, the orings (if I recall correctly) will almost seem too big, but they do fit. usually 3 little dabs of grease (thick hard pasty type) will hold them while you let it down.
The below the cylinder gaskets are adjustments to where the piston rises to in comparison to the head, called "squish" or something technical. there has to be a minimum clearance for the cylinder to the head. so color of gaskets also denotes the thickness. I think there are about 5 or 6 different thickness gaskets you can order when you need to. If your gaskets are good you can reuse them. soapy water can check for leaks when running.
FWIW, my 08 had bad gasket at the base, I never really noticed it, except that the carb was finicky... Anyway, as it turned out, I felt it one day. I could feel it only because I had shorts on, which I hardly ever wear around bikes, that day...
Funny enough I watched Jims video on replacing them so should be fine there. I did have the head off last night and to be fair the O ring doesn't really look too round any more both sides are flattened if ya get what I mean.
I've just ordered one so I'll get that fitted sharpish. I thought maybe by running it without the rad cap on I might of seen bubbles or a build up of pressure when I lightly covered the hole with my finger but there doesn't seem to be any. For the sake of £4 though I'll do it anyway. How they can justify £3.95 postage is a whole new topic!!
Any idea what the different base gasket colors are in relation to size? Mines like a dark grey and very thin like paper!
to get to the points and coil
is a whole new topic!!
Need Help Please With Wp Seal And Milky Oil
in Gas Gas
Posted
As it goes ive flushed it through a couple of times with some oil watered down a little with some parrafin. Seems to have taken pretty much all the gunk out.
Ive also got the clutch case off too to replace the water pump seal.
I managed to drill the 2 bolts in the end just enough to release the bolt head from the casing. The threads were fine it was just the bolt head that was stuck so thats a relief i can tell ya!
The water pump seal does look in bad shape tbh and the little spring that goes round the center hole to keep it tight too the shaft is just kinda floating around. There doesnt seem to be any tension on it at all!
Fortunately the shaft it self looks fine so i just ordered a new seal hopefully that'll get here soon!
I took all the clutch plates out too while i was at it and cleaned them up to get all the milky crap off them!
The bike is leant over a bit on its side so with any luck any last remaing dribbles of crap will drip out overnight.
Many thanks for the input on this thread and hopefully i can get this seal fitted and be back up and running soon!
Fan motor tomorrow! Ill update the other thread cos i found the prob!
Thanks guys