Take it off the bike and put it in boiling water and then you should see a continuity between the terminals when it's hot.
In fact before you take it off just bridge the terminals while the bike is running and the fan should come on. If it does then its the stat at fault if it doesn't then it would probably be the rectifier..
I had a CR250 crosser that would ONLY START if it was leaning slightly to the left, and funny enough my gasser is similar! If I'm leaning to the right I can be there all day as soon as I swap sides away she blows.
Trial and error sometimes, just try it different ways.
It's turning into F1 where everything Is so closely "matched" between teams that there is going to be no room left for team input. As in F1 cars have so little margin for improvements/differences over the other teams that it got incredibly boring for a while.
I can kinda see why they do it to give the riders/drivers more of a chance of competition between themselves so it doesn't boil down to which team can afford the best technology, but its not like they can introduce a DRS system on bikes.
And let's face it the most exciting thing that's happened to F1 for a while was the introduction of DRS!
Before that the cars were so evenly matched that no-one could pass anyone and thus the ratings/viewers plummeted because it was simply boring to watch.
If they're not careful they're going to do the same thing to moto gp bikes!
I would imagine if it was beneficial or feasible for any type of gain, then the multi million pound teams like repsol etc would have already explored it....
I have a little bit of movement and its the dogbone bearings on the rear suspension they need sorted. Get a mate or the missus to lift the bike while you stick your head underneath you'll probably see straight away what it is.
I had to remove my casing to fit a water pump seal and its really simple and straight forward.
The only minor faff I came across was the rubber between the bash plate and bottom of the engine was a slight hindrance on re-fitting because it was squished against the casing. It just made it slightly awkward getting the casing on square without damaging the gasket.
A little bit of patience though and it got there in the end.
If its just not biting and the pads are good a trick is to clean up the disc with some alcohol or carb cleaner or such like, and bake the pads in the oven Gas mark 7 for 20 mins. It burns the crap off them worked a treat on my front.
I've had a similar problem once, not a trials but they're all very similar as far as I've seen. Turned out to be a sheared tooth. If your competent to take it apart then I'd strip it and have a look, at the end of the day ya gonna have to strip it down to repair it anyway so...
There is a way to do it with an inner tube, by laying the wheel flat with tyre soap round the edge underneath, then using an inner tube the same size as the wheel on the top side with plenty of soap to take up the gap between the tyre and rim. The inner tube plugs the gap as the trye inflates ya just gotta pull it out before it gets nipped between the tyre and rim.
I would still be tempted to replace that water pump seal mate. If its failed to the point of letting oil into the water that would say to me it's definitely had its day. If the water was emulsified with oil that is! The water is under pressure so I can understand it forcing its way into the gearbox but for oil to come back into the water.....
Better safe than sorry!
Just a thought.... Maybe the fuel filter in the tap or the one on the side of the carb (if it has one) could be clogged up with crap? Long shot but might be worth a check.
Testing Thermostat
in Gas Gas
Posted
No you don't need to remove it to do that! Just make a contact between the wires and start the bike and the fan should be on.
If it still doesn't like I say my guess would be the rectifier.