I've just been having a nosey through the parts list and noticed that the picture of the rear shock shows the exposed part of the piston shaft at the top with the spring preload adjusters at the bottom.
Now I know it's just a picture but it got me thinking is it pictured the way it should be on the bike? Because mine is the other way round...
I would think carefully before taking the bike to the police. If it is stolen you will loose your bike and the money you paid for it as a best case scenario. Worst case they accuse you of stealing it or charge you with handling stolen goods. Sound stupid? When have you known the way the law works in this country to be logical, especially when the police don't care too much anyway as you've already said. I've seen this happen to people. You really have to chase the ba**ard who sold you it, if it was me I'd push for my money back. The bike may be legit but you will have a hard time explaining the VIN when it comes to reselling.
As long as there is a paper trail from the dealer and its a registered business there should be no problem in recovering the money.
If it was bought from joe bloggs one evening in the cock n bull pub then that would be a different story it would turn into a civil case to recover the cash. In which case normally it's bye bye bike and cash.
Sorry 0007 I just noticed you said pretty much the same thing.....
The tyre was already fitted when I bought the bike so I'm not sure exactly how it was fitted. But I do know that it hadn't seated properly on the rim. I had to put 50-60 psi into it to get it to seat!
I'll try taking it off and cleaning it up like you suggest.
Thanks David, I'll have to have a sniff around. Imagine the Michelins will cost more than the IRCs. There's a joint on ebay offering Pirelli here in Bris, but I think they're more trials block style for trail bikes rather than true trials tyres.
Eddie. No idea about a price, but if you search ebay UK they pop up there sometimes.
Also, there is no rear disk brake on the air cooled monos, though the later Z model with water cooled motor had disks front and rear.
Cheers guys.
If you compare the tread style and pattern between a mich and a Pirelli there really is no difference. The Pirelli MT43 is a slightly harder compound thus offering a little more wear.
hi tazz am taking the wheel off to check the spacers i might just put the standard one back on for now to see if that makes a diffrance. affer all i dont really need a speedo. i was thinking of puting it on the road but am unsure need to take the motor back out today to have one of the stud removed. then i can put a new one in.and put the motor back together. once its up and running then ill sort the other littel jobs. am buying some new shocks but not sure witch ones to buy ive been looking at the magical ones wich look nice the other thing is the size ive got new njbs on at the moment 340mm but am abit on the heavy side. so was thinkind off 350mm or 360mm but would a bigger size be ok on a 199a?
To be perfectly honest with you although I had a 350 Sherpa once upon a time I have no idea!
I just happened to know a little bit about wheel building. Sorry I can't be more help.
I noticed this on mine a few days ago and funny enough he right is marginally worse than he left. Upon further inspection it's just down to worn holes in the pegs allowing them to sag.
I'm going down the route of a spot of weld on the back simply because there's nothing else wrong with them.
The wheel needs to be dished with whatever spacers are going to be used. I used to build mountain bike wheels and the principle is exactly the same. If there was a 3mm spacer missing on one side for example then the wheel will end up 3mm to close to that side.
The wheel may not always be dead centre in the hub.... But will be dead centre in the axle.
I think I might be tempted (if it were me obviously) to maybe run down to the nearest police HQ with the bike and say to them "look I think I may have bought a stolen bike, could one of your traffic/forensic officers have a look at it please". I would of thought ya may have more luck by taking the bike too them than calling.
And how are ya supposed to fill a DVLA form in when ya can't read the numbers is that not the point?
new brake line and banjo in my opinion. If you replaced the washers then either the ends of the brake line are deformed or leaking or the slave its self. and im guessing the cheaper option would be to replace the brake line first.
Either that or if ya know a "man" who could poss accurately shave off a thou of an inch on the line end and slave to ensure they're completely flat again maybe?
I'm not sure exactly how they would end up deformed in the first place but that's the only logical solution I can think of...
Yeah it definitely tubeless I double checked just to make sure I wasn't being a plum! I says on the side wall summat along the lines of "tubeless unless on a non tubeless rim then use a tube" summat like that...
I might try a little bead of rubber glue I the problem persists thank you. Last time I happened I had 1 1/2 mile to ride back to the car! Luckily it was forest track/road so it wasn't too harsh but I can't keep on doing that ill destroy the sidewall running flat!
Yeah Thanks guys I'm pretty convinced there is no groove there I've had a real close look, and funny enough I also rely on my fingernails quite a bit for various things, it's amazing how much ya can feel with them lol
Well my suspicions were confirmed today about my fan drawing too much power and running slow....
On a brighter side of things though so far so good...
Only problem ive encountered (well not a problem as such but) is instead of knocking the bottom out of the motor it actually stripped the 2 little screws insted! Which is no great biggy dont get me wrong just a pain trying to find 2 that small lol. I even lifted the 2 metal tabs that secure the motor backplate too but it still knocked the screws out!
Which Way Up Should The Rear Shock Be?
in Gas Gas
Posted
I've just been having a nosey through the parts list and noticed that the picture of the rear shock shows the exposed part of the piston shaft at the top with the spring preload adjusters at the bottom.
Now I know it's just a picture but it got me thinking is it pictured the way it should be on the bike? Because mine is the other way round...
Or does it not matter?