mr neutron

Bruno, Maybe you simply need to get your levers adjusted correctly, first, before you think about shortening them.... When I first started riding trials a little under 2 years ago, I thought the Trials Folks were nuts the way they said to have the levers set up. I was used to the conventional way of my mx bike setup, and (wrongly) thought I could/should transfer that same setup over to my trials bike. It did not work out too well..... I also needed to learn to ride with a finger on the clutch lever & brake lever, and it just didn't work while riding in a trials stance. I had the levers set up pointing too far downward, as well as having the pivot point out too far towards the end of the bars . I now have my pivot perch moved in farther than I used to with my mx bike, and the plane the levers move inward/outwards is probably just a few degrees from level, if that makes sense. It works out much better tor trials riding. If you can, set your bike on the stand, and have it as level as you can get it. Now stand off to one side, and look at the angle your lever is pointing at. It works out best for me if I have set it level/parallel with the ground, and then downwards just a few degrees. I'd bet it will be pretty similar for you, if your levers aren't that way already..... The pivots on my bike are moved inwards quite a ways; almost to the downwards bend of the bars. My first finger tends to get pretty good leverage on the lever moved in this far, and when I fall (not IF I fall......), they don't tend to break. I also do set the lever perches just tight enough so they will rotate on the the bars in a crash, and this helps keep 'em in one piece during a crash..... Hope this helps some! Jimmie Added in EDIT: It sounds like you already have your levers set up. Sorry about my long post; I need to read your posts better before I write mine....

Here's what a chipped Idler gear looks like (as said, from the the back side of the gear as it gets installed on the bike): Here's what the kickstarter pawl gear looks like when it gets boogered up: Hope this helps some. This is a pretty common problem when the correct starting procedure isn't used...... I *think* it's mostly caused from just stabbing at the lever, instead of slowly engaging the k/s pawl gear by slow rotation of the kick start lever, then pushing it (the lever) through with your weight...... You'll hear quite a bit of clicking/clattering gear noise at idle when the gear looks like this. Jimmie

Okay. Nevermind. I found out the answer. The actual adjuster itself is indeed part of the damper rod, where it mates up into the fork cap. Evidentally, Gas Gas doesn't sell only the adjuster alone (which is what's broken on my bike), but it comes as part of the damper rod/cartridge assembly. The price for that little cartridge unit is quite high, so Jimmie won't be worrying about that adjuster any more...... I'll just change the oil & be happy with whatever adjustments I can do with that. Realistically, unless I suddenly develop Adam Raga-like skills, I'll probably never notice any difference anyway...... Thanks, Jimmie

Does anyone here know a bit about the 40mm Marzocchi forks on the 2010 models? My 2010 280 Pro TxT has had a broken rebound adjuster since the first week I've owned it. I finally got around to ordering a new rebound-side fork cap, thinking that the adjuster was part of the cap "assembly". That's how it seemed to appear in the parts diagram at www.trialspartsusa.com . I got the new cap today, but it doesn't have the brass adjuster part of the assembly in it. It does have the little brass air bleeder screw, but no "clicker" at all. I'm wondering if the broken adjuster/clicker is part of the fork cap, or possibly part of the cartridge rod somehow? Added in EDIT: Is there possibly some sort of an "adjuster assembly" that screws into the end of the damping rod, and then slides up into the fork cap, and seals with o-rings? I'm really grasping at straws here. I have not had these forks apart, and it's been a few years since Iowned my '98 KTM 300, which had conventional forks with one side adjusting the compression, and the other side handling rebound chores, Would anyone have any idea about this? I've been told this is a fairly common problem for bikes in this model year range....... Thanks! Jimmie

Okay..... On further review, I went back & watched the video, numerous times. I'm fairly certain the problem is: The shorts he's wearing don't match the bike at all. Defintely a fashion faux paux, or whatever that word is for " fashion mistake"..... Actually, I stopped the vid at the 3 second mark, and saw that you do have good compression of the rear suspension, D-man. But the front forks hardly compressed at all, as well as I am able to tell. I'd think it would help some to hit the tire/obstacle a little bit lower, bend you knees into it more, and then an aggressive unweight....... Like Zippy & Rob have said, the timing, the clutch deal, and probably as important as almost any of it, the "leap/unweighting" done correctly and at the right time. I fully know that's my problem on these types of deals, along with hitting the obstacle too high most times. But knowing that, and making myself correct it have been the tough part. Hope you have better luck than I, Mokewepa!!! I hope this helps, but please listen to these other guys, Dylan. I'm not that great at it myself. And I really want a big tire to practice on, like you have there. Or maybe the Bouncy House, hee hee.... FWIW, here's a link to a video done by a fellow that frequents the Thumpertalk Trials Forum (username "2Ply"). I thought he did a great job of expaining the lift "principle" while filming the rider's 6 progressively better leaps over a log up here in the wet NW part of the country..... To me, it seems like the rider wheelies into the log, maybe even dropping the wheel slightly down onto the log? Jimmie

Dylan, I am by no means an Expert here, so you can take what I say with a grain of sand. I'm still struggling to accomplish the same things as you. But I've been told that by much better riders that I'm doing the same thing wrong when I attempt these things. I htink you've sorta figured it out, from the sound of your last post...... To me, (remember, I'm not the Expert here), it looks as if your front tire does indeed kinda skim off of the corner of the obstacle (the big tire), and doesn't give your suspension much chance to load up/compress. Hitting the tire with your front wheel a few inches lower would help you get that extra lift by loading your suspensension, especially the rear end. It would likely help your rear tire hit a bit higher up, and in an "upwards direction", instead of slamming into the side of the obstacle..... This is my inexperienced voice saying this, Dylan, so don't take it as "The Gospel" here. Like I said, I'm struggling with the same thing, and can't get my timing & technique down yet, so I'm no authority on the matter. But to me, your timing & everything else looks good. Hopefully, someone who knows how to ride better than I will be along and can help...... I think the big tires like you're going up are tough. They tend to absorb energy from when the front wheel hits them, and this keeps your suspension from loading up for the lift you need from the rear end. Hope this is of some small amount of help, Jimmie

Like has been mentioned, the old, out-of-print book by Len Weed/Bernie Schrieber would be one of the best reads, if you can find one. And the video from Ryan Young is a very good thing to have. I have the one called "Trials Training Techniques And Cross Training Tools", & like it a lot. It's a very good instructional video for the novice or higher-evel rider. He breaks down the components of a technique, and describes them very well, I think...... I personally love to read, and found this at an Australian trials website. It covers the basics pretty well, & gives a few ideas for some training drills, which I like a lot. It's in pdf form, and seems to be basically a "condensed version" of The Bernie Book, sorta..... Was "The Bernie Book" we refer to titled "Observed Trials"??? http://www.trials.co...manual&Itemid=9 Click on the Adobe deal that says "TRIALMANpdf.", and that brings up the manual. Hope this helps some! Jimmie

Have to say that I really think these things are a great idea. I had the "opportunity" to drop my bike & test out the new kill switch, numerous times this afternoon. It worked very nicely! I'm a fan of these things! The only time it was any trouble at all was after I killed it, and took my pack off to pilfer around for a new Zippy-Tie for my rear fender, After the repair, for some reason, I put the magnet & strap in my pack, my pack on my back, and then kicked for a minute or so before I saw what the problem was.... Jimmie Added in EDIT: Sawtooth, why would you feel that you need what essentially amounts to 3 kill buttons? At any rate, I'd think all you'd need to do is put the ring terminal on the ground by the coil, with all the other ones on there, and then find the right connectors (auto parts houses have those things here in the states) to go from two wires/connectors into the one wire for the kill switch.....

Yeah, Congratulations, Dylan!!! Glad to read that you did well!!! Kinda like you, I have a goal to make it up to the Intemediate class for next year, at least at my local club's Intermediate level. It looks like you're well on your way to making that! What did this trial show you that you ned to work on? Were there things you feel you need more practice on, and maybe things that you felt really good at doing? Again, Congtats, Dylan! Nice Job!!! Jimmie

The very first motorcycle that I ever bought, back around 1969 or 1970 was set up exactly as you described, Zippy. The guy that I bought it from used this little Honda for Hillclimbs, and wanted/needed a killswitch like this for the inevitable times when he'd need to chuck the bike..... It worked really well.... Jimmie

Good Points, Telecat! My new lanyard-style Kill switch is made by Leonelli. I wonder if they make spare magnets available, or if anyone knows of any good, available substitutes? BTW, I do like mine, but fortunately, haven't had the opportunity to "really try it out" yet..... Jimmie

No, Zippy, I'm both an advocate of, and a user of Zippy-Tie Products!! I used to splice television cable years ago, and have seen Zip-Ties do some amazing things...... The friend I mentioned is a fellow trials riding buddy from work here in Oregon. He's helped me a lot with my trials riding. Every now & then he just forgets how dumb I actually am, and forgets to "Pull out the REALLY BIG Crayons". and explain that he meant for me to use the little Zippy-Ties to hold my fender on. But like any good, true friend, he won't forget to remind what a Dork I am when I crash! In my bike's case, as beat up as the fender was, ripped at the stock holes, lip missing, & etc., I should have still used only 2 small Zippy-Ties. It was totally "My Bad.", and had nothing to do with your advice, Buddy! Again, I just hope that anyone else that reads this will learn from my mistake here. And about that beer: Man, I would really love to travel & see your part of the country (Michigan). I'm originally from Oklahoma, but I'm certain both Oregon & Oklahoma aren't anything iike your part of the country. It looks like you guys have fun at your rides, which makes it even more appealing! Unitl I can show up in your neighborhood, or you wander out here (the invite is out...), I'll drink a Fosters' beer for ya! It ain't the best beer around, ain't the worst, but ya git a lot of it in them big cans they come in.... Jimmie

Thanks for the good Advice, Squid! Maybe some can learn from my mistakes..... On my 2010, the rear fender is held in place by a molded in lip that slips over the rear end of the airbox. It's further held in place by a stainless steel round head allen bolt/washer combo at the front most part of the rear fender (bolts into a thread insert the airbox, I believe), and had 2 plastic trim panel fasteners towards the outside of the fender, that went through factory holes in the airbox. Well the 2 trim fasteners kept breaking when I'd crash (I've stated before that I spend a little time picking my bike up now & then..... Just to stay in shape.... ). So, per the advice of a well meaning friend, I replaced those trim fasteners with Zippy-Ties. At that point, the molded lip under the fender (hooks on the back end of the airbox) had almost completely split off. So I drilled a couple more holes, and added more Zippy-Ties. And that was probably part of the problem that caused a lot of my airbox damage when my son crashed my bike..... I used too thick/strong of Zippy-Ties, and then too many of them. There rear fender really couldn't move much during a crash, without ripping the airbox up with my not-so-well-thought out modifications. Those trim panel fasteners are probably meant to be used as a sort of "fuse" in the fender/airbox circuit. I'm fairly certainthat those fasteners are supposed to either pull out, or break in the event of a crash, so the fender & airbox don't. Now, I'm using really small Zippy-Ties in only 2 places, and that stainless allen head bolt/washer deal. In my pics above here, it sorta looks like I have another bolt/washer deal in that area, but it actually is a riviet & washer that holds on that plastic muffler guard. At any rate, I'm hoping that the next time I crash, those 2 tiny Zippy-Ties will be the "fuse" & break before the airbox does. Bigger, stronger Zippy-Ties are not what is needed in this application. Unless you like repairing airboxes, hee hee.... Jimmie

Very Cool, Mokwepa!!! Looks like a nice event, and that was well done vid! And you guys have some good riders in that group! Zippy, are you sure the ratio of WGASA consumed beer-to-Bouncy House time would be a good idea???? Jimmie

You're correct; The bigger screw effects tickover (idle), and has no effect on the mixture. More air equals a lean mixture, and more fuel equals a rich mixture. Getting the correct balance is key. I think a slightly richer mix makes the bike a little slower reponding off idle, as in when you just barely open the slide/accelerate. A leaner mix makes them respond quicker. Within reason, if you're reasonably close to that 14:1 (or whatever it is, I forget the "optimum" air to fuel ratio....), being a slight bit lean or rich won't hurt anything. It'll have more effect on throttle response than engine longevity. Now, if your talking mainjet/wide open circuit, this correct mixture is more important (to engine life), and being slightly rich is normally somewhat more desireable than being too lean. My bike has a Dellorto carburetor, which has a fuel screw. The bikes with Keihin PWK Carbs have an air screw I believe. Here's a rough rule of thumb, if you don't know which carb you have: The Keihins will have the air screw closer to the "bell" end of the carb. It will be at the air inlet end of the carb. Screwing that screw out will make the low speed circuit leaner; screwing it in will make it richer. It regulates the amount of air you get for the idle/low speed circuit in the carb. The Dellorto carbs will have the mixture screw "in front" of the slide, sorta, up by the intake manifold. Screwing this screw OUT makes it richer, and IN makes it leaner. Just the opposite of the air screw. It regulates the amount of fuel you get in the idle/low speed mixture. Hope this helps! Jimmie Added in EDIT: I wasn't sure which carb cwill has on his bike, which is why I typed what I did above here. If any of it is not accurate, or wrong/incorrect/stupid, I hope someone will chime in to correct me. It's been my experiences that bikes with a fuel mixture screw tend to have the mixture screw located the way I described (close to intake manifold end of the carb), and carbs with an air mixture screw tend to have that mixture screw located at the opposite end of the carb (closer to the air inlet end). This has simply been my own experience. In life, there's probably exceptions & variations out there waiting to prove me wrong......

Thank You for noticing!!! I think you just decribed my first wife....... Jimmie

Probably not, totty79. The viscosity index ratings given by manufacturers are sorta "vague", or more like a general guideline. One manufacturer's 5wt. is another manufacturer's 7.5 wt., or vice versa.... If possible, I'll try to find a somewhat techinical website, done by a man named Peter Verdonne, or something like that, which had a chart that was a good guidline for viscosity indexes of different brands of oils. You will most likely be able to adjust out any differences you feel with your clickers (adjusters) or the oil level itself...... Jimmie In EDIT: Here's that website with the chart of relative viscosity indexes. it gets pretty technical, but is a good reference of sorts. Scroll down to the bottom for the chart i mentioned above..... http://www.peterverd...ve/lowspeed.htm

Might suggest some stronger springs if the elephant is serious about a ride........

Ya know, I recall seeing those pics before, Andrew, and thinking how I liked that look your bike has. You're obviously a trendsetter, Sir! Again, personally, I can live just fine without the graphics. As far as I'm concerned, it's around $125 (approximately 80 pounds, if I'm converting correctly....) that I could spend on fuel to go riding, or more bike parts, or beer, or whatever....... I won't criticize anyone for going bonkers over graphics; it's their way of making them happy. Just a matter of finances & priorities, I reckon..... Jimmie

Squid, I hope you don't have to use it again either!!! I can imagine both you & the checker had a good case of "Big Eyes & Soiled Shorts" at that moment in time, huh? It is nice to hear it did what it's supposed to do! I got mine (the mag kill switch) from Jack's Cycle in Maine. http://www.jackscycles.com/ That's where I got the deal on the muffler, and would've gotten a great deal on the airbox had I not repaired mine. Stu Preston owns that business, is a very good rider, has always given spot-on advice & help, & has been wonderful to deal with for anything I've needed, whether it be from Gas Gas, or aftermarket. Sadly, I think he's also kicking my butt at our personal weight loss challenge..... Anyway, the kill switch works fine. Stu told me those guys like to take the magnets & "hide" them from the riders of bikes that own them. Just another thing to keep us amused, huh Zippy? I also got the adjustable throttle thing from him, but I'm on the fence about whether I like it or not. It does what it's supposed to do: Limits the amount of throttle rotation, and hence, power. But it feels "different" from what I've been used to, as far as my old stock Domino feels. Like it has an off idle "catch" in it that keeps me from being less smooth than I normally am with the throttle. I didn't seem to be able to get full throttle when I had it adjusted to allow that, which might possibly be problematic sometime. I may need to attack something with some fine sandpaper or a file....... Jimmie

Man, Oh Man, Bruno!!! I hope you're healing well now! I had not seen this thread for a few days, and just saw this! I'm really glad you're not hurt any worse than you are, and am hopeful you heal well! You really have to be careful about what has been inside those barrels, but I guess this is a little late for that, huh? Any word on finally getting your Beta? Jimmie

Zippy, I think I first read about the V-Mar Racing adapter here in this thread, after you got one & posted about it. Having once panicked (spelling?) because I thought I lost that stock rubber adapter, and having fought getting the airbox back on once I found that goofy rubber adapter, your post made a lot of good sense. I have one on order. And Thank You for the Head's Up! on the install of it. It's about time for a good carb leaning anyway, so I figured I'd simply take off the carb to do the install of the adapter...... And actually, I agree with you & Bill, and am not really into graphics all that much. Function is more important to me than looks on my bikes. Graphics seem to help sell a bike, and not much more, to my way of thinking. My wife complained when I took the stock graphics off this bike, and asked me when I was going ot get some more "stickers" to replace them. When I told her that I think aftermarket "stickers" were around $125 a set, with OEM even more money, she backed off a bit, hee hee. Those stock Gas Gas stickers are some of the toughest I've ever seen, however...... Where do you guys mount your magnetic/lanyard-style (Leonelli) kill switches? By the clutch perch/master cylinder, just like stock? Does that lanyard typically go around the left wrist? I've seen some with a coiled cord on the magnet dealie like a Slinky, mounted to the rider's belt, and one of those folks had the switch right in the middle of the handlebars, by the mounts..... At any rate, it's GREAT to be riding again. I missed my 20 minute workouts in my yard...... Jimmie

It got put back together & ridden yesterday! I got a new midbox/silencer for the bike, as well as a new throttle (the one with the adjustment that controls how far it can be opened), and a bunch of other miscellaneous bits & pieces. Still have more stuff coming, but I was thrilled to get it put together enough for a ride! I used a cheap plastic welding kit to repair the rips & holes in the rear fender. Stuck some stainless steel screen in there with the soldering iron/welding tool. Then I attempted to use the filler rod & sorta smooth things over somewhat. It came out uglier than a bucket of buttholes, but it has held well so far. I used the same tool on the airbox, but managed a slightly better looking job, barely. I also used zip-ties & black silicone sealant on the airbox. Since the split airbox & fender now had some ratty graphics, and since I needed them off in a few places to make repairs, I took all the graphics off. I will look into some graphics kits from either S3 or Jitsie sometime in the future. I pretty much now have one of the ugliest 280 Pros in existence, but it's rideable again! The little black deal clamped onto the end of the new exhaust is my spark arrestor, which is needed to be able to ride on National Forest property...... So far, for the one ride I have on these repairs, everything has held together just fine. It's great to be riding & crashing again! Thanks for your help here, Fellas! You guys are truly a metric ton of help/advice, and I appreciate y'all!!! Jimmie Added in Edit: Bill (that's_a_five), I went to Lolo Pass & rode some of the sections from the trial events the two previous weekends. Went with the the guy that took 3rd in the Novice class one day of the PNTA event, a young Intermediate rider, & the Int. rider's father, who rides Advanced. What a tough trial that would have been to ride! Some of those sections were seriously tough for folks of my skill (or rather lack of skill) level. I couldn't believe what they had some of the Int. riders do. I rode a few of those section, but had to chicken out on one. Didn't feel the need to make a run to the hospital quite so soon after finally getting to ride again, ya know? Barry probably would've aced everything!

A couple of weeks ago, my son had a slight mishap on my Gasser while learning the finer points of wheelies: I got a new midbox/silencer & some miscellaneous parts. Repaired the airbox & fender. Have a new throttle, and a new Leonelli kill button with the magnetic lanyard deal. Also should have a V-Mar Racing carb adapter coming as well, but that really has nothing to do with crash damage. This is what my poor bike looks like now: Since I was going to have to "sacrifice" the stock graphics to patch up the airbox & fender, I decided to just take them all off the bike altogether. Will look at S3 or Jitsie graphics kits in the future, but I believe S3 is the only place making them for my old bike that I can get here in the States. I patched up the airbox & fender with a cheap plastic welding kit. On the airbox, I also used some zip-ties & silicone seal as extra insurance. The fender came out horrible (the airbox won't win any prizes either, I'm thinking.... ). I reinforced it with stainless steel screen material, and attempted to fill in the stock holes. I'm just using tiny little zip-ties and the one bolt up front to hold the ugly fender on for the time being. I know the bike looks pretty ugly, especially compared to how it did when I first bought it. But I'm able to ride again, and that means a lot to me. Everything held up well for the ride I did yesterday, so I guess my repairs are successful, so far..... The exhaust has a black spark arrestor on the end of it (from a John Deere Gator; way cheaper than what you can buy from some trials shops here....) that I needed to ride in National Forest yesterday..... Oh yeah, about the throttle: It has a feature that allows me to adjust a stop for the throttle tube, that prevents the throttle from fully opening. You can adjust how far it will open, sorta like what the old YZ minibikes had. This feature will be used when ANY new rider, or my son, rides this bike in the future..... Jimmie

Nice work (again!), Mokwepa!!! Any chance on one of the longer logs that you can hop up on it, and then ride the length of it, and hop off? I have an old maple tree I decided to save from being firewood that I attempt that on. It's close to the same diameter as my front wheel. Makes a nice balance & double blip (to get up on it) practice drill.... Jimmie