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About stevem75

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  1. The chrome is the top ring. The iron is the lower or second ring. steve
  2. I’m with woody on this one..... it doesn’t matter if it was for uk export or not. When it arrived in the uk in 74 or whenever it was, it had a one piece tank and seat unit on it. Before the importer shipped the bike to the dealer the original fibreglass tank /seat / side-panel unit was removed from the bike in the crate and the homerlite metal tank unit installed. At some point since then someone put a M199A tank on it. Probably because it was available and fit somewhat well. As to the actual year of manufacture..... that’s not how Bultaco worked . They didn’t make their bikes by year. But rather by model number. But it is fair to say that a model 150 was available in 74-75. And your dmv or whatever licensing agency in the uk needs to give it a year for registration sake. But to call it a 1974 250 Sherpa t isn’t quite accurate. I’d bet the model 124 and 125 Sherpa t were also available new in 74 and it’s a very similar but different bike. Best thing to do is get yourself a parts manual and service manual. These two pieces of literature will help you with everything you need to know about what the bike looked like. What parts were used and how to repair when the time comes good luck steve
  3. That wiring looks correct. Green is grounded through the white wire to the ignition coil bracket. Black comes from the points to the coil. But that kill switch looks suspect. I’d disconnect it and try again. If still no spark then for the heck of it disconnect the white wire from the coil bracket. If still no spark then reconnect the white to the bracket and carefully clean the points under the flywheel. They may just be dirty and slightly corroded. Steve
  4. I also have a 187 and plugs are never an issue. I run the stock femsa points and use a NGK B8ES plug. I do run belray mc1 at 50:1....... maybe a little lean on oil for long wide open throttle but it works just fine. I’d try a little less oil in the fuel mix. Maybe 40:1 and see what happens. Steve
  5. It’s definitely not a bandido engine. It looks like it’s a model 5 kart engine. The D means it’s a 250cc and the 5 at the end indicates 5 speed. They made this engine over a long period of time so that’s why it has the mid 70’s barrel and head. They may have started production of that engine in the mid sixties and continued it sporadically over the years. I’d guess given the higher than 1000 serial number that it’s a later model produced in and around 73-74 steve
  6. The engine looks like a 198. The frame I’m certain is not 198. It looks more like a model 91 frame. The give away is the gusset at the steering stem and the vertical frame tube that extends from in front of the swingarm up to the upper frame tube. So I would say the engine is 1978 and the frame 1972-4 ish. Remember of course bultacos aren’t made by year. But for licensing purposes you need to give it a year. I’m not sure what your jurisdiction requires ... approximate frame year or engine year. Steve
  7. Has your engine recently been apart ? If the new return spring was installed and it’s still not disengaging then there is an issue with the ratchet mechanism in the transmission. This isn’t hard to repair at all once the cases are apart. Usually the problem you are having occurs because the ratchet on the kickshaft isn’t setup with enough spring preload to fully disengage. Barring that there could be other issues with the stopper plate as well. It would be a bit of pain to have to open up the cases but the actual repair would very straight forward and easy steve
  8. Here are a few pics of the 400 prototype engine.
  9. I don’t think the 400 prototype motor was the same as the el mont or the bandito. it was a right side forward kick that directly engaged the crankshaft. It certainly was a gear drive primary though. I do have several close up pictures of the prototype engine. Even the Center cases look different. Having said that some of the peripheral parts were common to other models. Incidentally the 400 prototype engine number is M100. Not to be confused with the 125 pursang that also has this designation. I’m told most prototypes always began with M100 steve
  10. Very nice !! One of only 57 made !!! (Or 58 depending who you talk to) I’ve seen serial #33 and one other one but can’t remember it’s serial. I actually wasn’t aware the M29 had a 5 speed box but it does make sense they would use it. Steve
  11. Yes it is a Montjuïc race bike. The engine is a 4 speed 350cc This engine was used in the bandito and el montadero models. As well the M29 TSS used it. The preproduction Montjuïc road bike that never came to be used this power plant in its early development stage. Note the center port exhaust exclusive to this engine type. I believe the factory called this the “pedrables” engine. Whereas the 5 speed models were called San Antonio. There were only 2-3 of this montjuic built by the factory for 24 hours racing. It was likely loosely built around the 350 TSS but didn’t carry the M29 designation. Highly regarded and exceedingly rare Steve
  12. Bultacos are never referred to by year. They are referred to by model number. A M151 is a 326 cc Sherpa T that was produced for a very short period of time (1975). However it cannot be called a 1975 model year. If you order parts from any Bultaco parts dealer for a 1975 Sherpa t it means nothing to them. The only correct reference is the model. Bultacos were made so that many parts were interchangeable. This kept production costs down. So for example an engine case cover for a pursang would fit a Sherpa t. If you have a non matching serial number between frame and engine you’d need to order correct parts for each model number. Make sense ? It would be more helpful if you mention what parts you think will need interchanging. As mentioned most parts will be to an extent. Steve
  13. stevem75

    Bultaco M80

    True prototype bultacos carried the M100000 serial. Before the purists tell me M100 was the 125 pursang please know factory protos always were labelled M1xxxx. They could have been metrallas, pursang or anything bultaco wanted. Most Sherpa T factory rider models were actually numbered model units taken from the assembly line and given to respective riders. Be it M80,92,133,159. Bultaco did whatever they pleased it seems. Vesty has many times corroborated this..... see his Facebook page and pics for evidence of this. True factory Sherpas were carefully blueprinted well set up bikes for lampkin, vesty , soler, bulto etc etc The G on the headstock more than likely was used to identify what the particular tube on the frame was to be used for. Bultaco frames were not assembled and welded at the factory. They were all pre made at another factory away from the assembly line. This assembly plant likely needed identifying marks to know where to place each tube in the jig for welding. Hence the letter stamp. I have a M27 that has the same letter on the headstock. This isn’t coincidence. They probably did hundreds of frames a month if not thousands and each piece would need to be labelled to know it’s fitment. Steve
  14. I’d say the frame is earlier than 158. I’d guess 124. The give away is the gusseting at the headstock and the tube that runs from the upper frame tube to the bottom (right where the 158-159 airbox would go). As well if this was a later model frame than 158 then the swing arm and rear motor mount would have been separate pieces. None the less still a good solid bike to be out riding on!! steve
  15. I think your original post said when you grounded the green you had spark. Problem solved. Yes the green does terminate at the resistor ground. This is normal. It could also be grounded to the ignition coil bracket. Both ways will work I’m not sure I understand how you’re using a test light to diagnose. This would mean you have some sort of powered light that will illuminate when you have a circuit. This type of test will prove nothing with this system The black wire from the magneto goes to the ignition coil. The green wire goes to ground. The green wire grounds the magneto..... sort of. It’s function is to activate the rear brake light if so fitted. ( through the resistor) If it isn’t fitted or you’re not using the brake light then ground the green wire !! please do not jump to “it must be the coil” conclusion. I’ll say it again. It’s not the coil. ! Check simple things first. Known good plug. Known good plug cap. Clean electrical connections. Disconnect all peripheral components except the black and green wires. Check for spark. If it doesn’t spark with black to coil and green to ground. Then un ground the green wire and leave it connected to nothing. Check for spark again. If still nothing then make sure points are opening completely to enable the circuit to break. This problem Won’t be more than dirty points, bad/broken wire or connection, or bad plug. Highly highly unlikely that the low tension coil or ignition coil are the issue
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