Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Information
Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. As mentioned by woody, it will be jetted out of the box. I’m using one on my 199b. I richened the needle one position and went one pilot size larger. Mine runs crisp and is nicely responsive. I felt out of the box it was perhaps a bit lean. But could just be my climactic conditions. steve
  2. Having followed both of your posts regarding your bultacos I will give my best advice. these are very simple engines. They need three things to run. Spark. Fuel. Compression when checking for spark all you need to do is make sure it sparks. Don’t worry if it isn’t “fat blue spark”, just make sure it does spark. Compression. Bultacos are famous for crank seal leaks if they’ve been sitting for years and years. The leaking seals can cause primary compression leakage and this makes starting them very hard, and if they do start, they run so erractically that no amount of adjusting the carb makes a difference. Another spot to look for air leakage is at the carb manifold and sometimes even the cylinder base gasket fuel. The Amal carbs are famous for wearing out. But more often than not they will run just fine with a perfectly clean Amal or bing carb. They need to be carefully disassembled and cleaned. All the passages in the carbs need to be clear and the jets must also be clear. Once you have made certain that the carburetor is clean, that you have good crankcase sealing , then you can go ahead and verify correct ignition timing and set up. There’s always tons of what I call useless info out there. Banal comments like “put a mikuni on it “ or “put an electronic ignition on it “ and your problems will go away is really just lazy. these bikes ran perfectly fine from new when they were new. And there’s no reason they can’t run like that again with some basic maintenance cover your basics. Spark , fuel. Compression. Once those basics are covered your Bultaco will start and run like your car does everyday Steve
  3. It is normal practice to warm the piston a little bit to allow the pin to slide into the piston. But as far as “press fit” I’ve never seen that on a Bultaco. The gudgeon or ( wrist pin) should slide through the bearing easily.
  4. I’ve purchased and installed the rod kit available from Hugh’s in New York. It’s worked flawlessly and I do recommend them. They’re not italkit. They come in a box with no manufacture label, but if I was to guess, I’m going to say that they’re hot rods. This is an aftermarket company in the states that makes rod kits for tons of Japanese two strokes. I’ve installed probably 4 dozen of them over the years in various modern bikes and they perform very well. In actual fact I’d be more concerned installing a wiseco piston than a hot rods kit in an engine. Any of the kits available through the Bultaco suppliers will work just fine though. steve
  5. The 199A parts manual is readily available from inmotion. There never officially was a 199B parts manual. I have seen versions with hand written notation giving parts numbers. I have a 199B owners manual. It’s identical to the A manual but includes pictorial diagrams of the six speed gear box and air filter fitment instruction. steve
  6. There is documented serial numbers well into the 14900 range I believe.
  7. It’s important to know that bultacos aren’t referred to by year. The M199 and it’s variants were produced for several years. Having said that, 13426 is a relatively lower B model serial so it was likely built in 1981. But that’s an inaccurate way of identifying it. Quite simply it’s a M199B 340cc Sherpa T. It does have a 6 speed gearbox. If you look carefully at the carburetor it may have a date code on it that could give a clue to what year it was assembled. I have seen this on many bing carburetors. It would have for example 3/81 meaning March 81.Virtually everything is available for that bike through inmotion trials in the UK. Bultaco motorcycles in New York carry many if not all parts for it too. yes tank and side panels easily available. In stock trim the bike is an excellent performer. I owned at one time serial 13456. Not too far from yours steve
  8. Simple answer. The engine has been swapped out sometime in the past. Simple as that. It didn’t come from Bultaco with a 138 engine. Someone put it in there when the original engine had to be replaced for whatever reason. Bultacos always left the factory with matching engine and frames. Always ! In the uk in the 70’s it was commonplace to swap out engines and frames for tax reasons. But this swap is more likely because the original 187 engine needed repair or replace and it was easy to install another know good motor.
  9. With the circlip type cases simply heat the case and drop in a cold bearing. Each one will fall into place and rest against the clip. Temporarily install the seal retainer to hold in place. Do the same on the mag side case. Install the seal retainer to help with final bearing placement. Make sure your crankshaft is ice cold. Set it in the freezer for a half hour. Once the cases are ready to go together I use a heat sink that I heat up generously and then let them sit on the bearings and the heat will transfer from the sink into the bearings. This is a nice way to do it instead of direct heat from a blow lamp or the like. Once sufficiently hot take out your ice cold crank and drop into place in the mag side case. Working quickly with the other case drop it onto the crank and the whole assembly if done right will just fall together, torque case nuts to 5ft/lbs and let cool. Once cool eyeball where the crank is sitting. It may be that it’s too far to the left or right. Simply use a dead blow hammer and swat the end of the crank in the direction it needs to go to be centered. I can hear the curses now. “ you should never hammer a crank”. And true you shouldn’t but just a light swat will move it enough to center it and allow it to turn freely. Once done continue with the rest of the assembly
  10. The chrome is the top ring. The iron is the lower or second ring. steve
  11. I’m with woody on this one..... it doesn’t matter if it was for uk export or not. When it arrived in the uk in 74 or whenever it was, it had a one piece tank and seat unit on it. Before the importer shipped the bike to the dealer the original fibreglass tank /seat / side-panel unit was removed from the bike in the crate and the homerlite metal tank unit installed. At some point since then someone put a M199A tank on it. Probably because it was available and fit somewhat well. As to the actual year of manufacture..... that’s not how Bultaco worked . They didn’t make their bikes by year. But rather by model number. But it is fair to say that a model 150 was available in 74-75. And your dmv or whatever licensing agency in the uk needs to give it a year for registration sake. But to call it a 1974 250 Sherpa t isn’t quite accurate. I’d bet the model 124 and 125 Sherpa t were also available new in 74 and it’s a very similar but different bike. Best thing to do is get yourself a parts manual and service manual. These two pieces of literature will help you with everything you need to know about what the bike looked like. What parts were used and how to repair when the time comes good luck steve
  12. That wiring looks correct. Green is grounded through the white wire to the ignition coil bracket. Black comes from the points to the coil. But that kill switch looks suspect. I’d disconnect it and try again. If still no spark then for the heck of it disconnect the white wire from the coil bracket. If still no spark then reconnect the white to the bracket and carefully clean the points under the flywheel. They may just be dirty and slightly corroded. Steve
  13. I also have a 187 and plugs are never an issue. I run the stock femsa points and use a NGK B8ES plug. I do run belray mc1 at 50:1....... maybe a little lean on oil for long wide open throttle but it works just fine. I’d try a little less oil in the fuel mix. Maybe 40:1 and see what happens. Steve
  14. It’s definitely not a bandido engine. It looks like it’s a model 5 kart engine. The D means it’s a 250cc and the 5 at the end indicates 5 speed. They made this engine over a long period of time so that’s why it has the mid 70’s barrel and head. They may have started production of that engine in the mid sixties and continued it sporadically over the years. I’d guess given the higher than 1000 serial number that it’s a later model produced in and around 73-74 steve
  15. The engine looks like a 198. The frame I’m certain is not 198. It looks more like a model 91 frame. The give away is the gusset at the steering stem and the vertical frame tube that extends from in front of the swingarm up to the upper frame tube. So I would say the engine is 1978 and the frame 1972-4 ish. Remember of course bultacos aren’t made by year. But for licensing purposes you need to give it a year. I’m not sure what your jurisdiction requires ... approximate frame year or engine year. Steve
  • Create New...