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mbeers6

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Everything posted by mbeers6
 
 
  1. Is there a way to visually tell if a rim band needs to be replaced? See pics below. About 3 months ago I had to replace a few spokes which required me to remove and reinstall the rim band. I cleaned it up well including wire brushing the rim and put small dabs of green Slime on each spoke nipple and then coated the rim band in Slim before carefully stretching it back over the time. Tire held air fine until a few days ago when I noticed it was flat. Soapy water showed air leaking from several spokes. UPDATE I bought new rim band but having trouble getting one section to sit correctly in the "channel". I used just soapy water. Do you think this will seal okay or should I start over and try to remove the "bubble"? Maybe once I have the tire on and air it up it will flatten out? When I try to remove the bubble, the sides won't fit back into the channel. Thanks! OLD RIM BAND BELOW
  2. Great pics thanks for sharing!
  3. Thanks for the reply Crazy. Yes I believe the end of the thread makes it stop. I put it back together for a ride yesterday and it felt okay. I've never taken about the rebound fork all the way, but there is a slight clunk so I'll probably tear down the forks after I had new bushings in hand. If I find the culprit I'll post a reply here.
  4. Having a small issue with the rebound clicker on my 2010 GG txt 250. Has the back anodized fork tubes but no preload adjustment on the fork cap. Before I took off the fork caps I noticed the rebound adjustment clicker stopped "clicking" before it bottomed out. Meaning as I turned it clockwise, I felt some clicks then it just kept screwing in without clicks until it bottomed. If I kept turning it out (counter clockwise) I get about 33 clicks before it stops. It's been like this since the last fork oil change, but I want to fix it now. The compression side is fine, clicks all the way to the bottom and top. I backed out the rebound clicker all the way before taking off the fork cap. Here is what the rod looked like when I took it apart. To fix this problem should I back out the gold rod (#17 in post 1) or screw it in more? Maybe the silver cap nut is the cuplrit? Should the cap nut be totally tight or lose? It is lose right now. Here is what the rebound looks like. Then below that is what the compression looks like (it fully clicks so no problem with it). Compression (which fully clicks, no problems)
  5. Not sure if this will help anyone, but here is a link from ADV rider website regarding the Zokes. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/marzocchi-fork-maintenance-de-mystefied.1018648/#post-25356057
  6. Dusty, where are you located? You are welcome to test out my shock...I'm located in Northern CA
  7. Yes there could be copyright issues however if Rising Sun Imports created the videos they would have the rights unless it assigned them to Gas Gas. I'm sure Torrot obtained all intellectual property rights owned by Gas Gas in the purchase. Let's hope the outcome of this international conference is that the videos are offered up again freely.
  8. This is exactly what Jim just wrote back to me. Saying that a DVD came with each bike in early 2000's.
  9. With the new ownership of Gas Gas all the Rising Sun Imports/ Jim Snell technical videos have been taken down from youtube. If you try to view them now you will receive a message that says the video is private. Did anyone happen to save the videos in a format they could email or put on a disc? I'm kicking myself for not saving some of the engine repair videos earlier. UPDATE : I was told there would be an international press release about all of this mostly likely next week. Let's see what they say! Cheers, Mark
  10. Thanks everyone, got it repaired today from a great shop which owners also happen to ride bikes. Here are a few pics in case someone else runs into the same issue. I am thinking about using a rubber spacer instead of the washers to maybe avoid some of the vibrations and future stress on the brackets.
  11. Thanks lineaway, no I have the spacer along with some washers I used to space the muffler out so it won't rub on the rear tire.
  12. Hoping someone here can provide some assistance or suggestions on how to go about a repair. The exhaust tab that mounts to the rear shock bolt for the "center box" of the muffler broke on my 2010 TXT 250 Pro. I'm sure this was from a fall on the right side during my last ride. I will most likely end up taking it to an experienced aluminum welder, but I want to try to prepare for the job myself as much as possible to keep the cost down. Meaning if I can cut, file and prepare the pieces so they just need to lay a weld it should save and#36;and#36;. The problem is that I don't see how the tab that broke is supposed to line up with the tab that is still good. Meaning the shock bolt must pass through both tabs and the outside tab (the one which broke) is too low. It just doesn't line up. Tried searching here without much luck nor could I find close up pics of how both tabs should look when properly aligned. 1) Does anyone have pics of how the tabs are supposed to be oriented? Should they be touching each other or is there a gap? 2) Any thoughts on how I should go about this repair? I see that the existing bracket is starting to crack so I figured I would have the shop reinforce that weld in addition to welding the broken tab back on. All the other mounts, by the rear master cylinder and one up by the carb, are fine. Cheers Mark
  13. No wear on inside cover, but even the fill plug had a few small shavings. I believe the shop took apart the clutch discs and looked for shavings/fillings. I only removed the entire basket as I didn't have a 12 point 7mm socket. I did check the main clutch bearing and it felt okay. No real slop just little play when I rotated it clockwise/counter clockwise which I think is normal.
  14. I really appreciate everyone's thoughts, very helpful! Update....knocking does NOT go away with choke on or when I richen the idle mixture screw. Okay I took off the clutch cover and didn't see any visible damage anywhere. Kick star paw had slight wear on first tooth but idler, crankshaft and clutch basket gears look perfect (see pics below). Going to have local shop give it a listen and go from there. It really sounds like it's coming from the cylinder so maybe the next step is to check piston pin, bearings, etc. When I find the problem I will post so anyone with similiar problem can reference this thread
  15. Thank you for the quick replies!! I'm at work, but will check tonight if the sound goes away when the choke is on. Currently the mixture screw is 2 turns out (where I had it before). I'm going to feel pretty dumb if its a simple carb issue
  16. ***Update 4/7 ....shop determined that part of the kickstart spring (end that goes into the shaft) had broken off. Problem is I don't know where it's at. Bike is still running fine so I guess I'll continue to run it unless the sound gets worse. I assume a complete tear down would be necessary to find the piece now. Anyone have other ideas, I'm open to any suggestions. I've taken off the clutch basket, idler gear, replaced kickstart spring, etc and don't see any damage to gear teeth, etc. Very frustrating. ****** Hello all, I have a 2010 TXT Pro 250 with around 150 hours on it. It just developed a slight knocking sound and I'm afraid if I keep running it, major damage may result. Bike runs fine so I'm confused. I've searched this forum for "knock" and other terms and I understand there is a common knock because of the clutch in this bikes. However for most people the knock goes away when the clutch is pulled in. Mine is a constant knock and does NOT go away when the clutch is pulled in which is why I'm so concerned. Here is the chain of events that occurred before I heard the knock: -Washed bike with light water, started and ran bike for a few minutes (no knock). -Went to remove air filter and noticed it was wet from the wash, so I took apart carb and cleaned all jets, etc. -Next time I rode the bike I hear a knocking sound. Have ridden it 4 times and knock is still there. Compared to my friends Gas Gas and mine knock is noticeable. I decidd to drain the gear box oil (running ATF) and found some metal on the drain plug. I've never had this kind of "shavings" on the drain plug. Also found some dark colored material on fill plug. So, what would you guys check first? I plan on taking the cluch cover off tonight, but what should I be looking for and how far do I need to dig into the bike? Thanks!! Video of engine running (hopefully you can hear the sound which is more pronounced at idle) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxC2Ju9D598 Drain plug Fill plug Spark plug
  17. Thank you very much lowbrow, good to know.
  18. Doing maintenance on my 2010 txt pro 250 and have a question about the bearings inside the swingarm. I'm talking about the bearings that the swingarm bolt rides on, not the small ones that work the linkage. Should I be able to spin these bearings with my fingers? Mine don't, but before I took it apart the swingarm moved freely up and down, no slop, etc. The bearings looked fine, no rust or pitting. Plus these are not needle bearings so I think I'm fine. I think I'm just being paranoid.
  19. Hoping someone here can help me out. I have a 2011 gas gas TXT Pro/Eco 250 with about 70 total hours. I was riding and saw that the tranny window was strawberry colored so I replaced both the water pump seal and the shaft as the shaft had some shinyness to it. Flushed tranny 3 times, everything looked fine then 3 hours later.....the seal fails again. Took it apart and saw that the seal had peeled up (see pics below). I have no idea why it did this as I followed the instructions on the gas gas video. Could it be because I used a white lithum grease vs silicon grease? The threads looked pretty bad on the impeller too. Could it b/c I tightened (counter clockwise) the WP shaft too tightly? It spun okay when put back together, but not smooth as butter or anything. So I've ordered a new seal and impeller. Has anyone seen anything like this before? Any thoughts on what I did wrong to cause this?
 
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