mbeers6

Thank you all the for replies, think I'll try to tape it or somehow keep it from rattling.

Uh yeah I'm being serious or I would not have posted it It's a pretty loud rattle. I understand the lid is screwed on at the rear so can I just cut this tang off?

Noticed rattling noise at idle and determined it is this metal lip that appears to be riveted to the front underside of the air box lid. I guess it has gradually worked itself loose. 1) Is this necessary or can I just take it off? 2) If it is necessary, then how do you all suggest I secure it? Maybe with two screws? It's not really a rivet so I'm surprised it hasn't fallen off already. Bike is 2010 Pro 250 Eco model. Thanks!!!

Unbelievable opportunity! Any idea how much it cost?

Here you go....

I am in the same boat as you. What I was told was that Marzocchi no longer makes trials forks (i.e. TECH forks on new GG) however I saw the other day that the Scorpa's come with Marzocchis. So maybe it is possible to order parts through a Scorpa dealer? Be interesting to see if anyone else on the forum has some input.

is there an easy/quick way to check the "mains"? I assume you need to pull the barrel off and check crank for up/down play. I thought I read you could also pull the flywheel coverage and check the magneto? Trying to find cause of a knock I have. Already replaced idler gear, clutch basket, checked piston/rings via exhaust port, etc.

Welcome to the club! As for the starting issues, I would pop off the float bowl and clean the pilot jet and entire carb if you have time. My 2010 250 with del orto carb sometimes likes to have the choke on to file up even if its warm. Don't really have to unless its been like 20 minutes sitting or so. Water pump seal is common issue so check your gear box oil and if milky rebuild it. Exhaust pipes like to get bent from rubbing/hitting rear tire. Trial to be gentle on the kick starter which is another well known problem with these bikes. You can easily chip a tooth off the kick start gear.

Had my exhaust exhaust for a repair and peeked inside the cylinder. Took some photos of it at BDC, mid way through and TDC. When it was at TDC (see third pic below) I saw this browning on the skirt. Is this normal? Or is this something I should be concerned with? Recent compression test showed 155 PSI so I don't think it is blowby. Plus why would the middle of the piston skirt be okay, but the bottom have blow by? No noticeable issues except that I do have a slight knocking noise in the engine (not clutch related). I've been trying to track that down and wonder if this could help explain it.

Has anyone else replaced their bushings? I have around 300 hours and haven't looked at mine. Wondering how long they will typically last?

Thank you!

LOL, that picture is of my pump and it IS fitted the correct way in the picture. The problem I was having was that my fan wasn't coming on leading to overheating and pressure actually blew the seal out. You can see how the lip is curled up against shaft in that pic.

I would check the dog bones, bottom of frame, skidplate, etc. Are they all bashed in? The skid plate looks to be pretty flat from the second picture. It comes stock with a "V" bend near the back mount. Also make sure the rubber is underneath the rear mount. I'm replacing my bashplate b/c it is so bend up. Only so much we can tell from photos (good eye Lineaway on the clutch cable routing). If there is gear box fluid is it milky colored? If so that is water pump rebuild time. Overall looks pretty clean though. Hope it works out for you.

Last Video isn't working for me in USA even after using unblocker website. Anyone else having issues?

Marked private

I was thinking about that or just cutting off the "tongue" of the protector that extends underneath the motor mount.

Bringing this thread back to life as I purchased a Jitsie linkage protector THEN read this article concerning the removal of the rubber cushion. Is anyone using the linkage protector AND the rear rubber cushion? If they both won't fit, then maybe there is a way to make it work without using the piece that extends beneath the motor mount? Thanks for any help in advance.

Thanks lineaway, I was able to get the shock in last night I might PM you later about rebuilding the shock. I saw your replies to motobene's thread on ADV rider about rebuilding the shock. It looks like you found a way to release the nitrogen w/o drilling through the head. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/inside-the-ohlins-gg45-shock.916951/

I hadn't thought about shaving a little bit off of each side of the shock bushings. I think I'll give that a go considering how close I am already. Here's a photo of the shock. Thank you for the replies.

I'm going to replace my stock Sachs shock with a used Ohlins and believe the shock mounting tab(s) got bent. I had to use a hammer and punch to get the stock shock out. Now that I'm putting the Ohlins in, I don't want to mess it up so I'm trying to widen the shock mount about .7mm. Any ideas on the best way to do this? I tried putting a bolt and nut in between the tabs (see pic below) and unscrewing the nut, but I'm still short about .5mm. The ohlins shock is 23mm wide and the width of the brackets is only 22.4mm wide right now. Maybe a little heat and a punch to each side of the bracket? Is it supposed to be so tight that you have to hammer the shock in? Thank you in advance!!

Thank you!

What are the first signs that the bearings are going out? Is there a noticeable noise?

I am at work so I can't give you any screenshots, but you can still watch them in the US. First try to view the video and then copy the URL in the address bar. Then Go to https://www.proxfree.com/youtube-proxy.php Paste the URL and choose right below that the country as France for example. Worked for me!!

Is this the RYP one you are talking about? Only one I could find. http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/sherc_11-21-09/rim_band_replacement_manual.pdf

Thank you gents, I think I'm going to just order a new one. I don't want to be too cheap and have a flat in the middle of the next event. I agree that it's probably the edges when it fits into the valley that keeps the seal. Zippy....I used slime to lube the rim band last time. Tried to not stretch it too much when I was pulling it over the rim.