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Everything posted by mbeers6
  1. From my 2010 Owners manual and don’t think it’s changed
  2. Following as I'm in the same boat as you with a 2010 that I maintain religiously and has 450 hours but it is a legit green sticker so need it to last until 2025. Will be curious to hear what others have to say about dealer support since I've been mostly using places like trialsuperstore for parts. Where about in CA are you located?
  3. mbeers6

    compression test

    Yes you need to do test with throttle wide open (engine of course off). My '17 with 375 hours tested at 145psi so I'd say try again with throttle WFO. If still that low, then you have issues.
  4. Hey Feets, well the top photo (stock part) is showing backwards above so I probably should have found a better example I called a vendor today who has a '14 and '21 in his shop so he is going to try to look and see if the newer style guard will bolt up to the old style mount. I'll post a solution assuming I find one. Apparently KTM has no interest in supplying "legacy" parts so it will be interesting to see how availability of older parts goes next few years.
  5. I have a 2017 txt 250 and been searching for a rear disc guard but they seem to be on back order everywhere. It does NOT look like the new style disc guard will bolt up. Anyone know the bare minimum components I would need to buy to make it fit? The old part # is BT57050R3009 The new part # is BT57050GG-CPR-1
  6. I'm pretty sure it goes between the clutch cover and the kickstart shaft. So you install the clutch cover, then this tapered washer then the kickstart itself. Larger end butts up against kickstart
  7. My guess is excess carbon buildup in the mid pipe of the exhaust. Were you riding for extended period at higher RPM like on a fire road? That will definitely heat up the goo in the mid box.
  8. Thanks Carl and Feetup! Will look at getting correct length bolts (luckily my pegs aren't "drooping" yet) and also searched for pre formed peg mounts (see below). I try to take care of all my bikes (hence 400 hours on original engine) but do hope to get a new bike in next few years. Feetup...have you seen any peg mounts for sale which are specifically made for modern TXT? I found these on RYP which are meant to allow vintage trials bikes use modern pegs. The GasGas frame is rounded but I'm sure a fabricator could grind this product down to make it fit. Would like to avoid messing with welding the frame if I can.
  9. Hello all, what are your opinions on how I should fix this issue? 2017 GG with around 400 hours and stock skid plate didn't protect base of footpeg mount so material was scraped off. Now I'm getting concerned as the hole for the footpeg bolt is dangerously close to the "edge" of the mount on both pegs. Another rider in our club said he could weld some "material" to the base to build the mount back up. I think that is the best option right now since I don't think GasGas sells a replacement footpeg mount. Your thoughts?
  10. 99% sure that hole is stock so no need to worry as it was likely there before the damage occurred. Read through this thread for more info on that hole.
  11. Clogged pilot jet is likely cause, take carb bowl off thoroughly clean, etc. I would first check to see where your air mixture screw is at. How many turns out from fully seated?
  12. No problem Steve, that's what we are all here for...to help each other out. At least you've properly documented it with the dealer if something goes wrong later.
  13. Here is a video of my '17 going through gears. Definitely no grinding from 4th to 5th. A semi loud "clank" but that is it. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l7L3j3j3Iw0kz9tCxEX3zsaUT62tcWSb/view?usp=sharing
  14. Maybe try getting video or sound of the gear change? Next time I have my '17 out I'll try to record mine shifting from 4th to 5th. As others state, mine is "loud" noise but I don't think it is a grinding noise.
  15. Whatever adhesive you use, yes I would take the fitting out and clean everything. Then apply it and let it sit overnight before you add fuel.
  16. I had same issue with mine, dealer suggested and I have used TWICE now 3M windshield adhesive (black colored). Just get the area totally clean and free from gas/oil like the prior person said. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Auto-Glass-Urethane-Windshield-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3293242009&rt=rud
  17. Thanks for the follow up and pics Zippy. I'm going to try using the GG outer seals next time I replace my bearings then, should help keep some moisture out.
  18. I use the same bearings but don't reuse the old "seals". Don't the bearings have seals built in? How would you fit in the old outer seals? Thanks just trying to learn.
  19. Let me check around my garage and see. Might still have it somewhere.....
  20. One other idea, try calling Jim Snell. He had a spare dampening rod he sold me for cheap after I stupidly leaned the fork on it's side (doing an fork oil change) and the brass piece was resting against a box. It was a little bent so I decided to replace it.
  21. I heard the same thing about Marzocchi discontinuing parts, but what I don't understand is that new Scorpa's (non factory version) come with Marzocchi's? So shouldn't the Scorpa parts dealers be able to order replacement fork parts? ....wait a second, just read your screen name Luke what's up buddy!!! I think there is a Marzocchi dealer in Scotts Valley but if I recall correctly I called them a few years ago about buying sanchion bushings and they said they only sell mountain bike forks.
  22. I feel your pain, can be a difficult and frustrating task. Here are some suggestions based on what I wrote down last time I had trouble bleeding the rear on my 2010. -Try cracking open the banjo bolt open (while you are holding the pedal down). -Try pushing in pistons all the way, blocking them from extending out by inserting old pads or wood shins, then try bleeding -Try "reverse" bleeding using syringe. Do this BOTH from the caliper bleed nipple and at the master cylinder. -Put rear end up on tail gate, used screw driver to pump Master Cylinder Hope this helps!
  23. Take clutch cover off and look closely at the teeth on the primary gear and those on the clutch basket. You can get some grit in there or wear on the teeth and it can result in a sound like that. Any fuzz/metal on the drain plug magnet?
  24. Thanks for posting, may give this a shot!
  25. Do you have any pics of the modification? I would be interested to see what you came up with. I've been meaning to at least seal the airbox better on my '17 Agree with On It however wouldn't it be beneficial to limit the amount of dust entering the airbox as it in turn would be less dirty air for the filter to well...filter?
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